darylmarklim

Just to elaborate, i can feel the tock tock tock on my gear shift stick as well.

Hi everyone I was travelling at about 40kmph when suddenly there was a loud 'tock' sound, followed by a clicking 'tock tock tock' sound from the rear wheels. I was near home so pulled over and the sound stopped. It only happens when the car is in motion and gets faster as the car accelerates. does anyone know what happened?

Hi Does anyone know what these fault codes are? I got 11,14,16,17,46 Checked the list and 16.17.46 is not listed

cheers mate, will be sending car in to fabricate intake pipe, see if that helps, if not ill be opening that afm tomorrow. just changed AFM only, to z32.

I have sent car to workshop, turns out it is the turbo sensor wiring that is loose thus causing the engine light to come on. But now my car is even more undrivable, below 3000 rpm, the throttle response is weird. Eg. I can be full throttle but RPM crawls its way up to around 3000 then resumes normal operation. Also, moving off is hard because the car wants to die out at low RPM. Workshop said it had to do with my air intake pipe, which is made of some plastic springy tube, which allows air in through the circumference of the pipe and not only through the air filter and afm. This is because when throttle is pressed, you can see the circumference of the pipe getting smaller (air sucked in through the sides) and when you shake the pipe, the RPM fluctuates at idle. Any thoughts on whether this diagnosis is accurate? I have to wait till next week when im free to change to a metal pipe

Thanks nanogrip. My air flow meter is dirty but as I just got my Z32 AFM, i didnt want to remove it till i swapped them both. However it has not been cleaned since i bought the car a year ago, would such symptoms as engine dying occur out of the blue? There was no gradual engine dying once a week perhaps, it was fine 1 day then started dying every few minutes now. The engine dies off at random RPM, as low as 1500+, also happens when changing gears, even when cruising i can feel a slight jerk followed by engine light on. Now when i start my car, the engine light will remain on immediately until i start driving for a few minutes. As for the idler air control solenoid, is it the 'variable air intake control solenoid valve'? (trying to find it on service manual) will find the tutorial and give it a try. Also, my car is a R34 RB25DET, last modification was to upgrade fuel pump to a 255l walbro pump which was operating normally for at least 2 weeks prior to this incident.

tried resetting ecu, does not help as well, managed to find a thread about it, if anyone can share some advice will be greatly appreciated. cheers http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/233229-car-randomly-dies/

Good day guys.. I recently sent my car in to install some audio systems, I also rewired the entire audio system as the previous owner's setup was very messy The audio system was installed and working perfectly the day before, however yesterday, my car's engine began to cut off randomly (as i was in gear, the engine started back up immediately thus i just felt a jerk) Today, i nearly crashed as i was in a turn and the engine died off with clutch in, losing my power steering. The symptom was pretty much similar to the one experienced by this dude: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/282545-engine-cutting-out-randomly/page__p__4757195__hl__engine+dies+off__fromsearch__1#entry4757195 Besides the above i have been searching the forum but i can't find 1 similar or with explanation Did an OBD check turned out the following: 017 camshaft position sensor memory condition, ecm not received related pulse signal from sensor when engine working at certain rpm. possible cause sensor fault or circuit voltage / starter motor or starting system supply abnormal 038 turbo sensor memory condition - ecm received voltage signal from sensor paranormal - minority outlet voltage difference from sensor under voltage high possible cause: turbo charger, sensor, circuit - intake air system - exhaust system. OBD Reset with 038 still showing and symptoms persisting Did a DIY ECU Fault code reading: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ 11: Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor 26: Boost Pressure Sensor Checked the service manual, For the crankshaft position sensor: instantaneous break: symptoms vary with the break time and the vehicle's driving conditions. Light shock or surging will occur while the vehicle is being driven and the engine will stall at idle speed. (which is somewhat similar) For the turbo pressure sensor, it will be judged at zero, no remarkable malfunction will be detected. What i have tried: I have not been boosting the car at all. Also, the boost pressure (038)sensor only came up after i reseted the OBD, however both 11 and 26 came up when i did the diy. As such, this should be of no reason why the car dies off. A postulation from my tuner is that the previous owner had connected the secondary power source for the ECU (which should be direct to the battery) through the cable that ran for the audio. As such, after i rewired the audio cables, the ECU may not have its secondary power source anymore. (checking it out on sat) I have tried running the car with and without the audio turned on to no avail. I have recorded the voltage when the engine dies off and there seems to be no loss of voltage (with or without music) I am at a loss as to how to fix this, will be sending in to workshop this weekend to see if they can diagnose the problem. My question is, does anyone have such an experience and any idea how i can fix it? Thanks for taking the time to read my lengthy post, as a token of gratitude, please accept this picture for your amusement borrowed from thechive.com if your dont already know this awesome site. Cheers! Daryl

crossfactory thumbs up!

Good day guys Can anyone share some advice please. My car is a GTT R34 automatic converted to manual transmission. The workshop which did it said it was an R33 RB25det gearbox The current clutch is an exedy racing clutch of which model we are not sure of. Would the model of the clutch be an exedy hyper? Thats the only model available and it feels like a single not 2/ 3 plate. Is there a difference between the R33 series 1 / 2 and R34 gearbox and will it affect the clutch? Should i open up the transmission to check first before buying the replacement clutch? (just in case i buy the wrong one) Any recommendation for clutches? Car dyno by prev owner at 400hp, used as a daily drive Cheers! Daryl

BUMP anyone out there have GTR 34 spoiler for sale???

i just bought scratch x to try, lights are still yellow is sanding down required first? also i didnt use an electric buff

bump

wops, i meant the wing, above the boot?

Looking for original good condition r34 gtr spoiler, seller able to mail to perth or singapore. Cheers!

there is a DIY thread about using sandpaper to remove the yellowish, then polishing it back to new

mine is clocking 180k already, and its all city driving in singapore haha

GTR spoiler? leave on or sell it to me pls

Project False Floor Would this DIY be helpful dynafit?

the ebay 1's a copy for sure, i thought it didnt look too bad in picture. They also offer to paint it but its pretty expensive

Check out the link below. Click here

Hi all, Are there any other tell tale signs that an auto car has been converted to manual? Im also confused about the power/snow button. Where and what exactly is that? Im in the process of buying a car and would not want one that has been converted to manual. Thanks a lot!

haha yes.. now that u say it, looks like a ferrari does the kit look familiar to anyone? bump

that skyline looks wicked, dont think the body kit i posted is that similiar Im definetely painting it something red like this

It is a wide arch bodykit right? Front looks somewhat similar to the gtr bodykits around, rear and side however..