nuffsaid

PM Sent, please reply. Thanks

Thats if he hasnt thrown it in the bin yet! How important is it for me to get it back on? Spoke to a couple of places, they seem to think its not necessary.

I gave it a hit this morning, it made it to 0.7km/cm. So perhaps the MAP sensor isnt reading fully right. Is it bad to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield? Unfortunately the exhaust workshop who fitted my dump pipe has my heat shield (which he probably threw away), he recommended taking it off because it can cause rattling sounds if it touches the dump pipe. He has installed heaps of dump pipes and says that its normal to leave it off.

Forget about the oil temps guys. Thrashed it at 80 degrees, same boost level. Engine bay is quite hot, I guess thats normal for these cars. I have removed the turbo heat shield though since I've installed a dump pipe. Would this affect it? Ill try giving it a hit in the morning, I bet it will get to about 0.7kg/cm.

I have bedded the pads in. Lucky I didnt spend money on Ferodo DS2500's then, coz they are even tougher than the Formulas. Guys from Competition Braking said that the Formulas should warm up after a few stops. So I doubt they need warming. Perhaps they need another 100km or so to settle in.

Hi all I machined at 4 discs, replaced the front pads (they were OEM Nissan) with Formula Ferodos, and rear (also OEM Nissan) with Bendix Advance. I also flushed and bled the brake fluid with Castrol Response Super DOT 4. I have not noticed any big increase in braking performance. ie. previously my car would take a bit to stop in city driving, as if the pads were not biting as hard. After this replacement, it has improved a little but not by much. I have driven another GTT, and the pedal feels harder and pads seem to give a good first bite. A tap on the brakes and it starts biting. However after the initial bite, the brakes dont bite much harder. Nonetheless I noticed in my car that I actually have to step on the brakes for it to get that initial bite. The vacuum in the brake boost is working fine. Any idea why my brakes dont have that good initial bite? My brothers Camry has a nice aggressive bite when tapping on the brakes. (OEM Toyota pads) I have only driven with the new pads for around 80kms. Will they get better? Note: I have not tested out high speed and hard braking yet as still want the pads and discs to settle in.

I noticed that when the oil temp is relatively low, like 85 degrees and under, it can boost to 0.7km/cm. However when the car is driven for say 25mins and more, the oil temp gets to 92degrees (day or night doesnt matter) and usually stays at that point. When it gets to 92degrees, the boost level cant get past 0.6 kg/cm. Please note that I am reading all this out of my stock GTT boost gauge Why is this? Because of all the heat in the engine bay, does the SMIC intercooler suffer from heat soak? and so cant boost as high? However, I can drive for say 15 minutes without hitting boost (some time for the intercooler to cool) and then when I do hit boost, it still only gets to 0.6. 1) Is it the SMIC? and is it supposed to cool down when driven without thrashing? 2) Is my factory boost gauge reading wrong perhaps as the car gets really warm?

No boost controller at all. Pretty much stock except for full 3 exhaust and panel filter.

Hi all I noticed that even on cool nights, sometimes my car boosts to 0.55kg/cm, and sometimes to 0.7kg/cm Temperature is about the same, but sometimes it boosts higher, sometimes lower. I dont know why its happening, any suggestions? Its a 34 GTT

Hi Are there different versions of the ER34 PowerFC? I want to buy one, the serial number is ER34 0002-0005 (rather low number). I am afraid I will be buying an old version that may not be fully featured. Does anyone know if this is the case? I would assume that since the R34 GTT is a fairly new model, there would be only 1 version of the pFC going around. Cheers

haha thanks SK. you legend! Oh and how much do I need to get to flush the entire R34 GTT system?

Hi all Is it necessary to machine the rear discs when replacing pads? Or are the fronts the only ones necessary? Cheapest quote I have received for machining is $66 for the front, and $66 for the rear inclusive of labour. Is that right? Thanks

thats almost double the price of the EBC's listed above.

Still no idea on what fluid to use? any other suggestions? The ones PMATT referred to might be a little too expensive and unncessary for me?

Nopes, just the factory GTT one,.

Are you sure? I thought he B Specs are dual solenoid. A couple of tuners have told me that they are, some links below also seem to think so. See: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/020...boostcontrol05/ and http://www.modernperformance.com/all/greddy_profec.shtml

I will definately not go over 18psi. Why? coz my R34 turbo will crap itself, and I will never be upgrading my turbo. Too much money that I dont have. hahaha

Well with my exhaust being too loud for my liking I decided to change my muffler back to the nismo one. Basically I left the 3" piping and the resonator from my new exhaust, but because it had a flange just underneath the diff, I had an exhaust shop make some piping from my old muffler to that flange. Only problem is that it is 2.5" piping from the muffler to the diff flange (had to be done this way because the muffler is a 2.5" inlet one). Exhaust shop said the effect on performance is tiny. The car does not start boosting until a bit later compared to when I had the big loud exhaust. And I am no longer boosting more than 11psi which is good. (Some of you may say the more boost the better, but I think its safer now). Do you think the exhaust is too restrictive at the back and so caused this drop in boost? Boost goes up to about 0.6 bar, then moves towards 0.7 max 0.75 bar. No more 0.9 bar which was getting scarey for my car. No more acceleration slow down near redline. Is it worthwhile investing in a EBC to get 0.7 bar boost at full boost? My car seems to full boost at 0.6, but it always creeps up a bit more towards redline. I want it so that past 4000rpm, its always on 0.7.

Anyone else prefer one over the other?

And remember, if it sounds good on the outside, its a much different story to sitting inside the car. I know some cars sound reasonably quiet when they drive past, but hop in them and youll be surprised.

I have heard this, too expensive though!

Hi all Which is better: Blitz Dual SBC Spec S - 4 boost settings - single solenoid (rated at 18psi) - approx 360 Greddy Profec B Spec II - 2 boost settings (rated at 30+ psi) - twin solenoid - approx 400 as well I wont be boosting more than 12psi, but want something that will hold boost well (no spiking), thats why I am contemplating the greddy even though my boost level is not high. Anyone used either and whats your experience? Another one thats also good the greddy profec spec s, I like the turn knob feature that allows you to adjust your low and hi level boost easily. I dont think its as easy with the ones above, or is it? Thanks all

hi all whats the best brake fluid to use on a GTT? and how much do i need? and is it dot 4 4.1 5 5.1? nothing overly expensive but something that will put up well with some harsh hill driving and street braking i will be using Formula Ferodo pads at the front, and Ferodo Excels in the rear (they dont have them for the front). alot of brake places have recommended to not use Ferodo DS2500 (my original choice, everyone says they rock) because they can get noisy. so going with the ferodos below this model this . i think this is fine seeing the car is normally a daily driver so need something that will perform well on a cold biteand emergency braking my current pads (no idea what they are) just dont seem to bite down hard at all! i will be bleeding the brakes, changing fluid, and machining discs at the same time car was only complied late last year which would have meant that they changed the brake fluid, but who knows! some of these compliance people dont do anything! thanks

Is it the computer or parts of the car trying to protect itself from overboost? I know satanic's R34 has a similar problem, the car has all these safety mechanisms which will rich, retard etc etc to stop the car from overboosting.

A japanese cat back, brand unknown. Exhaust place that fitted said it was a very very good exhaust. Its 3" and progressively becomes a 3.5". But yeah I think the R34 exhausts are fairly okay stock and thats why there probably wasnt much improvement as expected.