senilykSkylines
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Posts posted by senilykSkylines
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I guess it depends on how you think "fitting better" is.
Cos for the size of the bumper its far to small to fill the gap IMHO.
Iim not 100% sure on what you mean by moving the bonnet stay? You shouldnt need to at all..
Thats my Blitz LM. Perfect fit
No bonnet stay removal or anything. All i had to do was lean on the horn brackets to give them a slight bend. But ended up relocating them and exchanging them for 5series BMW horns in the passengers guard. And using the horn brackets for Oil cooler mounts Good on you for giving it a go however. So long as your happy with it, and take the criticism as constructive.
cheers mate. I can take constructive critique
. I am happy with it. I must have been getting confused with the bonnet stay. Really is a long story...Nice car by the way. Looks immaculate, and I thought mine was in good condition.
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there isnt a lot of science to an intercooler core
as long as its big - how hard can it be
its a big heatsink
A guy at a shop warned me that they they were only for looks but lacked good flow. If I remember correctly, my tuner also told me not to get a cheap chinese one. Obviously they may be mistaken. I have to say the evo 4 intercooler fits better. Any bigger and it would have been a pig to find places for the bonnet stay etc.
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Many thanks.
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Ta, I'll have a search tomorrow. What do they look like?
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So basically you could have bought an off the shelf kit and spent the same amount of money, and had a bigger core.
Im not hassling you, just pointing out that you went the EVO route because you didnt want to spend more than $500, and didnt want to cut away the bumper.
I went evo 4 because other people told me they were better cores than cheap new ones, they also fit better. I was mistaken that either way the plastic bumper had to be cut anyway. I tried to choose quality second hand rather than cheap new... as well as practicalities involved. Thanks for your advise tho. The cooler really is a great fit...
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Wanting to know where the knock sensor is on my Rb25det S2?
cheers.
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so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum? (where the stock guage reads from)
previously it would have been reading from the compressor outlet pipe work or after the core
so there would likely be a bit of pressure difference between the two
ie what pressure is at the compressor wheel != pressure at the back of the plenum
imho, you should give the actuator a signal as close to the outlet as possible (r32 GTST style, which is from the compressor housing itself)
the further away, the more pressure loss you are compensating for (ie work compressor wheel harder)
"so the actuator is getting its signal from the back on the plenum?"
Yeah, this is where the boost T line is hooked up to.
Do you see the blue rubber sleeve sitting on its own, on the pipe connecting to the stock intake pipe on the top of my engine? That is where I drilled a little hole planning to put it, but changed my mind and hooked it into the boost gauge line. The blue sleeve is where it was on the old pipe I took off.
Do you think I should cut a hole somewhere in the pipe nearer the turbo to get better reading? Or should I put it in the same place as it was. Or shouldn't it matter too much?
cheers.
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Question:
Why does my turbo seem to be louder? It is running the same boost as before. I did have to get rid of the pipe that had the valve which hooked the boost T to the intake. I connected the boost T with a T into the boost gauge line.
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Hi peoples,
Finished my fmic installation. I used an evo 4 fmic and a standard rb25det intercooler piping kit from trademe. Cost me $500 or so, which is not too bad.
Anyone wanting to use these coolers in the future, they are a great fit! There is no need to move the bonnet stay or air conditioning fan. I only had to shift the horns a little and cut the plastic bumper to fit the pipes around the sides and the intercooler in the front (lots of grill fins). I also had to shift the window washer water container out of the way of one of the pipes coming under the battery. I had to extend one side of the piping with an extra join since the pipes were made for a 600mm wide cooler and not a 500 or there abouts. Not much of a hastle though.
Here is how well it fits:
Still took us a while since we were all newbs :b
And the finished product:
cheers
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here is the cooler. its got the pipe and joiners to the left that will point straight over the top of the intercooler (I'll take the soft bend off of it). the one on the right I think will be in the general direction of the original smic pipes so hopefully the won't be too hard to hook up.
the top part of the left pipe narrows to it looks like a 2" which is smaller than the intake and outtake points on the cooler, is that a problem? I thought it would be a bit of bottle neck.
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Lol, aren't forums just awesome for direct info haha.
The very first thing i thought when i read this was why you need an fmic? Here in aus they're defectable, on my old r34 i actually had a cop look for 1. a pod, 2. a shiny new turbo and 3. an fmic, whilst under the bonnet. I had none of them and was on my way in no time.
Are you doing trackwork? Or regularly hitting the drag strip etc?
The advantage of an fmic, as you said in your OP, is that it keeps intake temps cool when you repeatedly run the car hard. On the road you don't really need one in normal applications for sub 200rwkw. Did you ever consifder upgrading to an r34 smic? They're bigger and better, not sur eon the cost but there are a few diy's on here.
Also what makes the Chinese ones so much worse? Are they that much worse? Does it make any difference <300rwkw? I'd have thought if they're made of very similar material, with similar thickness of the cooling element and similar dimensions that they'd be fairly similar, maybe a bit less reliable? Do they maybe not cool quite as well and not support higher hp?
I'm just wondering why the bigger names charge 2k more?
I am not hitting the drag strip, but I do want to go to a track sometime. This little smic is struggling with keeping the intake cool and is causing it took knock slightly whic the Z32 ecu picks up causes a dreadful flat spot.
I was told that the flow of a chinese is more restrictive than other cores. I was also told that the r34 smic was a little fiddly aswell to fit to an R33.
Well, if I have made the wrong decision this is what i have got and I hope to finish what I started. It will be a learning curve
In NZ, because my car has airbags apparently and i will be going further than a 20% power increase and I will have to get a $400 certification so I was not wanting to spend too much on the intercooler. The fmic apparently will interfere with the airbag system ?! lol
A good condition evo4 fmic was a heck of a lot cheaper than a chinese one. I will need to look for a pipe/couple of pipes and joiners in order to fit. I'll post up a pick of the pipes and intercooler I have and see what you guys recommend if you are bothered to help me other than suggest I do something that I have already made a decision about. I've got it now and I am not really keen to sell it again to buy another kit.
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Do you have a tig? can you weld alloy?
Even if you do (I seriously doubt it) the time it takes you to faaark arsee about fitting the cooler, brackets, fabing up the pipe work etc... not to mention buying some more mandrel sections of pipe etc you will have spent the same money and spent far more time getting somthing to fit-
I'll put it to you like this- I have the skills and tools to fabricate alloy pipe in 3mm.... and I just bought a jjr return flow stealth cooler kit for my stag. No mess, little fuss and a proven performer.
But hey- whatever floats your boat mate. Next time you ask this forum for help.... try listening???
Others tell me it will be a better than chinese intercooler and it is smaller so will not have the hassle of cutting bumpers etc. I am also told the pipes can be manipulated to fit the smic ones.
If this is true it will be a better result than buying a big chinese kit and apparently easy (of which i will have to find out). So I have competing opinions from different people about what I should do or not do and I thought there would be people on here who have done similar things who could help out, but obviously not.
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Buy the time you have paid your tuner to make brackets- modify pipe work- hose- clamps- fittings etc then the extra labour to mount it, you'll have spent alot more than buying a stealth cooling pro return kit for just jap for exactily the same results.
J.
I am doing the work myself.
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High peoples,
I just bought an evo 4 intercooler and pipes (except top pipe) off trademe for $220, quite good condition. Reason I purchased was because my tuner said it would be an excellent upgrade and can manipulate the pipes to fit the smic ones. Apparently the intercooler will fit without cutting the bumper or moving the bonnet stay.
Could someone help me with some photos of an evo intercooler setup, someone thought they could give me and evo 3 one. Just needing to know how it goes. cheers.
I'll put some pics up after i have it installed for others.
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Mechanic told me today it is the VVT solenoid leaking oil down the engine loom. I will need to get it replaced. Is this a job that I can do myself? Where is it on the engine?
He reconed he had never seen it on a Nissan before and he thought it was mainly a Subaru problem.
Dan
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I can't drive a drag very well at all... and with my brother with a stop watch in the passenger seat I managed to do mid 9 sec 0-100. RB30 manual box, Rb25de 240,000kms. I barely got any wheel spin and I would rev it up a bit to start but the revs would drop down to like idle and then climb lol. I was too nice to it. But its sounds like considering I was a bad driver 9 1/2 sec is pretty good lol.
I am sure it did it faster when it was auto simply because it would start better (since the auto slips kinda). I guess mid 7 or 8+ as an auto. Sure did feel fast off the mark as an auto and that I think is where most time is lost unless I am mistaken.
cheers
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Hey there,
I'm looking at putting a coupe boot lid and spoiler on the back of my 4 door one which has the tiny spoiler. Are the size dimensions the same for the coupe and 4 door to do a boot lid swap?
cheers.
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thanks loads!
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Looking at purchasing a FMIC going cheap but it has oil in it since the guys engine went :b
How do you go about cleaning the intercooler? Is it as difficult as it sounds or just a flush through with a chemical of sorts.
cheers.
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Hi peoples,
Sorry to bring a post up from the past but I am quite keen on an answer from people with RB's who have used Gull Force 10 which has 10%ethanol. It is the only 98 fuel in Whangarei and I am quite keen to start using it and see if it fixes some of my temperature related pinging. My little intercooler is struggling with a dyno tune I have done. It is fine when the intercooler is cool but if it warms up (it does so quickly), it flat spots because the knock sensor kicks in. I have been running 95 premium of which people think may be my problem.
I am hoping to put off buying a FMIC if I can for now but I am dead sick of the flat spot.
Mods are:
Z32 tuned ecu
3" zorst
K&N panel filter
Walbro fuel pump
Dyno tuned at 168rwkw (auto transmission)
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edit: just read your post. well done. now you have a figure and now hopefully any pinging (if it was pinging) has been tuned out. enjoy.
cheers,
It is pinging a little but the knock sensor is kicking in to prevent it. Currently we are talking about this in another thread, my flat spot thread... I just wanted to tie off loose ends here for anyone reading, that is why I commented here about my power output. The guy that tuned it on the dyno (recently) is the guy that did the mail order and the road test initially (He didn't do the dyno run where it first pinged).
His dyno he used was the "velocity" one in Auckland which had a proper cooling room (unlike the first one) that literally sucked air through the room from huge fans at the back as well as fans on the front of the car... mean
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Gull is the station. I've used it before (one full tank) and it went great on a road trip down south. I think BP do 98 also, I'll have a check.
Here is a quote regarding force10 from: http://www.econation.co.nz/gull-new-zealand.html
"Gull New Zealand has embraced biofuels as a sustainable energy source for the future. Since 2007 Gull has offered a biofuel option for New Zealanders. Gull uses 10% ethanol blended with 90% mineral gasoline in their two biofuel blends – Gull Force 10 (98 Octane) and Gull Regular Plus (91 Octane). The ethanol is manufactured from whey which is a by-product of the dairy industry."
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Gull is the station. I've used it before (one full tank) and it went great on a road trip down south. Here is a quote from: http://www.econation.co.nz/gull-new-zealand.html
"Gull New Zealand has embraced biofuels as a sustainable energy source for the future. Since 2007 Gull has offered a biofuel option for New Zealanders. Gull uses 10% ethanol blended with 90% mineral gasoline in their two biofuel blends – Gull Force 10 (98 Octane) and Gull Regular Plus (91 Octane). The ethanol is manufactured from whey which is a by-product of the dairy industry."
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Your running RON 95 fuel on a GTS-T, and it has being modified for extra power?
Just as well I'm not trying 91
lolWhat is RON?
The 98 with 10% ethanol is only on one pump in my home town in NZ. Rest is 95 and 91. Is 95 not enough?
No bonnet stay removal or anything. All i had to do was lean on the horn brackets to give them a slight bend. But ended up relocating them and exchanging them for 5series BMW horns in the passengers guard. And using the horn brackets for Oil cooler mounts 
. I am happy with it. I must have been getting confused with the bonnet stay. Really is a long story...
Mitsi Evo 1-3 Intercooler
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I am a little confused.
The Boost gauge is reading the same as when I had the smic @ 9.5 psi, give or take. So obviously the turbo is still blowing the pressure needed unless the Boost T is pinching pressure from the boost gauge line causing the gauge to lie. Though I have not altered the Boost T configuration so in theory it should be allowing the turbo to run 9 psi-ish anyway, the same as before.
Is it louder simply because it has to pressurize 4X the pipe length it had to before? Or thinner pipes letting more noise out? or I have a leak in a join somewhere and the turbo has to work harder to reach the 9 psi the Boost T is telling it to produce.
(Trying to make sense of why I would have to change it and trying to avoid finding someone to weld a new valve into the pipe work)
cheers.