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senilykSkylines

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Posts posted by senilykSkylines

  1. Well sadly, he is an idiot.

    Dyno variance in most cases is +/- 15rwkw, thats a reasonable range.

    80rwkw, thats just plain horse shit :rofl:

    Put it on the dyno - and not for a rwkw figure.

    Use it to see the AFR's, the power/torque/boost graph and so on. Will tell you exactly how the car is performing and is a MUST for anyone modifying

    I will aim to put it on a dyno since I have clearly been put wrong or misunderstood. I am learning when it comes to tuning cars and I am reasonably sure that my car is in good running order (hence being confident) yet I do want to check everything out and get a power figure :P Just getting some weird answers from different people keep confusing me lol.

    I also made sure I got rid of the weak point and that is the fuel pump.

    The local guy said that he thought with the mods that I have done it might reach 150rwkw on his dyno which is a load of rubbish in my opinion after reading results on this site for some time.

    ...who doesn't chase figures? lol.

  2. they are a shitload more accurate that you saying your car has 190rwkw because you 'think' it does... :P

    I phoned a local guy and he told me that figures ranges hugely on different dynos... to quote him he said one might say 140rwkw and another 220! Sounds like waste of time to me.

    My cousin said he dynoed his subaru and it came to 380awkw. He said he doubted it made that much power and he thought it was more like that power at the flywheel.

    Everything is running sweet on my car as far as I know... there is no knocking sound etc, everyhting going smooth. Doing a premapped tune as opposed to a full dyno test retune is about $300 to $900... big difference.

  3. I belive Tricky Tune is up your way. Get your chip tuned in the car at least and on a dyno ideally. And yes take a trip to Meremere for a reality check. OOps it appears Mr Tricky Tune has taken his skills to Australia. You will have to take your car to the guy who made the chip in Auckland (was it Andy?) and get him to refine the tune in the car and then carry on to Meremere!!

    Yes it was Andy from X-tunes. From my understanding 190rwkw was a safe tune lol. I might have to travel down there to dyno it. I just don't know how worth it is since dynos don't sound very accurate.

  4. Hi guys, I have just had my gts25t tuned to 190rwkw ;) Torque is amazing and power is great!

    The mods are as follows:

    -3" turbo back exhaust

    -Walbro Gss342 fuel pump

    -GFB Boot T

    -Tuned Z32 ecu.

    Running 10-12psi.

    Stock turbo

    Stock intercooler

    I sent the chip away to a tuner in Auckland who did a pre-planned map for 190rwkw. I have not had it on a dyno and don't know if I will bother. I phoned a guy who ran a Dyno locally and he said that results vary greatly from each dyno. Some would read 140rwkw and another 200 rwkw. He thought with my mods I would reach 150rwkw on his dyno?! I thought it would be doing that with just a 3" exhaust.

    Seemed pointless to me?

    So, would it be safe to say that my car with those mods would be reaching 190rwkw? I know it feels definitely faster than stock.

    Also, for curiosity sake, what cars could I match with running that kind of power?

    cheers,

    Dan

  5. Lol, what defines 'the right one'? I used a GSS-342, direct replacement for the factory item. Old harness plugs straight into the new pump, but I replaced the harness anyway to get rid of the old wiring. I used the guide to install a Bosche pump and obviously just did things differently when the guide didn't make sense.

    Once you get the pump out and you are looking at the setup, it's very obvious what you have to do. The guide is almost unnecessary but makes things easier if you've never done a fuel pump before.

    Sounds like you guys do them all day... lol

    Um, I don't even know if I have to take out the fuel tank?? I think I do though. The instructions I got with it were not car specific but they showed how to actually connect the pump. I need the first step like... where the pump actually is! :whistling:

    I'll have a look at the bosch guide and I'll give it a go this weekend.

    cheers,

    Dan

  6. Hi guys,

    Just try'n to look up some info. I would like to run 10-11 psi with a boost T I got ready to install. How high can I actually go before rich and retard kicks in?

    Would I need to install and retune with a new ecu chip or get a different air flow meter? What actually causes it and can i get that kind of boost from the stock ecu?

    I hear some people talk about an R32 actuator... does that help?

    I got only a 3" turbo back exhaust at the moment and getting 8psi. A walbro fuel pump is on the way though.

    Still learning...

    regards,

    Dan

  7. What 3" system did you get?

    The GReddy/Trust PE II on mine is nice and quiet for a cannon :D

    I don't know what one I got to be honest... all I know is it works awesome. It sounds mean too! really raw compared to the four inch tip I had. I think I will put a resonator in still just to quieten it down a bit. It inly has a single muffler at the moment.

    I think I will wait for a fuel pump before I install my boost T. Once those two are installed I might go for a dyno run.

  8. Just had a 3" turbo back exhaust done. Wow, makes a difference. I am even getting 5 1/2psi boost down low and 8psi up high.

    Great upgrade. :P

    Haven't done a dyno yet but I would be curious as to what power its doin now... I'll do the free boost mod soon hopefully :D

  9. As the title asks, how far will the stock fuel pump take me on my R33? I am conversing with a tuner and he said that they need to be upgraded by about 170rwkw... is this true? I seemed to remember seeing others on here with more kw than that on stock pumps. I need to know before I do some tweaking.

    cheers,

    Daniel

    (I can't find any info through the search)

  10. 3" or bust!

    A proper 3", with two decent mufflers, will not be loud at all.

    Under 90dB which is very quiet.

    Many thanks guys,

    Depends what you mean by "quiet"

    I got a 3-4 inch tip on the back at the moment and it rumbles. It only gets my ears going slowly up a hill. 90dB unless I am mistaken is rather loud. I've got a little bubby expected early next year so I want it to be soft on his/her ears... but I want performance as well :)

    cheers

  11. Hey guys,

    I have got a boost T ready to hook up but I want to get an exhaust done first. I have been recommended by others to get a 3" turbo back exhaust so I booked in my car for a quote. The exhaust guy said that 3" is too big and will be too loud (I don't want it loud. just performance) and suggested that all I would need is to take out the cat converter and run a straight 2.5" pipe through from where the cat was. The rest of the stock pipe is 2.5" but it changes to a 2" half way down which he recons is all I need to take out in order to get some good performance. :wacko:

    Getting told millions of different things. It is cheaper to do the 2.5" obvously, but is it worth it?

    Some help and/or experience of different exhausts would be great thanks!

  12. the grommet you can use is one the right hand side of the accelerator pedal and the bonnet release cable goes through it, just peel back the sound deadener and then put it back once the line is fed, then in the engine bay use some pointy nose pliers to grab it. the hole is pretty much in between the firewall and the drivers side tower, oval shape hole.

    another thing i reckon looks good if you mount your gauge up on the dash is running the vac/boost line through the dash via a small hole. ill post a photo tomorrow, looks pretty neat and you can do the same with oil pressure gauge.

    FINALLY! After much toil and suffering, it is done!

    I sent it up through the bonnet release catch's grommet and managed to find it and pull it through to the engine bay. For others who try to do it this way... the grommet that the bonnet catch runs through must have a sock-like thing that the cable runs through after the grommet. I tried for ages to push the vac/boost line through but it always only made it a couple of cm and wouldn't go any further. I pushed a number 8 wire up there in the end and poked a hole through the sock and then sent the vac/boost line up through that hole (I had to push and feel for it). I hope there isn't anything wrong with doing it like that...

    Glad that nightmare is over for such an apparently simple process.

  13. Hey defari,

    Looks like we lost those last few posts! I am still keen for that pic. As I said in the wiped post, the furtherest I got was getting it into the side panel behind the wheel. I am guessing this is not the route because I could find no way through to the foot-bay area.

    thank you for your time!

  14. Ok, intensely frustrating. I took the kick board off and tried to feed the line through down there... no sign of it. So I took a box off with the letter "J" and looked behind it and it seems like an inclosed panel with a wall where my line should be coming through.

    Hmmm. Is the reason that I cannot find it because I am using a bendy/curly bit of pipe that came with the gauge? It may not be reaching down there.

    Am I looking in the right place?

    cheers,

    Dan

    P.S. Thanks for the photos! Though I think the connecting the T bit seems the easy part.

  15. yep thats what i was referring to. there should be a screw at the back next to accelerator and 2-3 clips next to the driver side door - after you've undone the screw, a little bit of force and the panel should just pop out (be careful though).

    you should see a fair few wires etc, gently push them to one side and look upwards towards the right - there should be a hole there. Obviously best to do it in the day light. If you cant see it, pop your bonnet - look at left strut tower - behind that there should be a black box (factory boost sensor) below that is where the hole should be (from memory)

    ill take a pic if you want.

    Thanks mate. I think I get ya. I'll have a go next time I have day light and time after work. If I am still lost I'll ask for a pic!

  16. if it helps, there is a hole on the bottom right drivers side footwell (you'll have to pull back the kick panel) from this hole it feeds perfectly to were the factory boost sensor is (the little black box on the left side of engine behind the strut tower)

    Sorry for my ignorance but what do you mean by kick panel? Is that the plastic cover just to the right of the throttle pedal that seems to cover a whole lot of wires on the side?

    cheers

  17. aaaaaaaah! mine came with that thin copper line. im shovin it down the fire wall holl from the engine bay... but I CANT FUDGING FIND IT FROM THE CABIN!!!!!!!!! IVE BEEN AT IT FOR ALMOST 2 HOURS NOW AND STILL NO LUCK!!!!!!!

    I have however found it running BETWEEN my front right hand panel and my cabin.... you know, you can see it from opening the drivers door and looking through the gap the hinge connects too...... this is reeeeeeeeally sending me insane.

    Can someone take a photo of where the fire wall hole end is from the cabin view? i just cant find it!!!!!!!

    plz help

    I second that!

    Just tryin to feed it through to under the steering wheel area and getting nowhere. I am feeding it through a hole just a little bottom left of where the throttle cable exits the firewall. Is this the correct hole? where is it suppose to come out? Or do I drill a hole lol.

  18. Ok,

    I haven't got enough money for a full exhaust system right now, still, I was impatient to fiddle with the car :yes: and bought a GFB boost T and a boost gauge all at a good price.

    Talking to the guy at the shop, he reconed that I needed to get the fuel pump checked and stuff like that to see if it was up to scratch to handle more boost so that it would not run lean.

    Although I plan to do that one day and run it on a dyno; would it still be reasonably safe to hook up the boost T etc and run 2psi without checking the rest of the system immediately? The car has only done 117,000km so I would have thought that it would be alright.

    Loooking forward to installing...

  19. if you do the 7psi boost solenoid mod then the AIRFLOW meter will tell the ECU more air is coming in and it will compensate accordingly

    ie; it is an EFI system, so you can just dial in more pressure, and it will compensate accordingly

    no carby screws to adjust :-)

    Oh ok, so if i wanted to up the boost one day to 10psi then all I would really need is a boost controller instead of taking it to a tuner.

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