NoFigJamHere
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Posts posted by NoFigJamHere
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Hey mate ive got a few pairs of these, with or without brake ducts, also have the plastic under tray/guard. Inner guards 150pr no holes. Brake ducts $100pr ‘95-‘96 ‘97 are diffrent.
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PM me your address mate and I'll send you 12pcs brand new. With o-rings. For free, I've got 100's of them. They are actually my design......
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This what your after mate?
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pm sent
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Have you sorted a clutch out mate? May have what you need... 7.25" Quarter Master pro Triple Plate.. All plates are brand New. Comes with Flywheel to suit. Was too aggressive for everyday driver. PM me if interested.
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Why wouldn't you consider a MoTeC?? Plug n Play with gear box/clutch control....
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Also early heads have alloy gallery plugs and newer heads have ball bearings (steel balls) Later cast heads also seem to have thinner walls in ports.
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RB26 cylinder heads vary were the cam lobe releifs have been machined from factory, its why some cars/heads can run cams with more lift without machining.
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Thats in an R32 GTR btw...
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Mate use the Teflon Braided hose and NO fuel smells, Not many current braided rubber hose brands are compatible with current 98 octane fuels. The set up in the pic is single 044 external,800cc Siemans injectors, 4 bar fuel press at idle (no vac hose connected) made 550 AWHP
PS: OEM in tank pump supplies surge tank...
Cheers n good luck... Awesome price on Aeromotive pumps btw, we get shafted on Aeromotive and Magna-Flow stuff in Oz...
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Dude if your 100% sure that the damage was NOT there when you sent it dont ask ROSS.... DEMAND a brand new one... Its called a HARMONIC BALANCER for a reason... Not a banged up lump of steel and rubber to drive belts!!! The fact they sent it back like that is INEXCUSEABLE imo..
PS: Make sure you torque the bolt correctly? Not the old "Impact/Rattle Gun" She'll be right method....Its the Number 1 cause of oil pump failures on RB's......Crappy chinese (were many branded items now come from), old clapped out balancers are up there aswell.
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As stated, need R33 S2 front bar and foggies, preferably in white.
Let me know what's out there!
Its an M Spec bar, as is with all the indicators etc $250. Its on the Gold Coast. 0488858885
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Yeah this is a good idea it will help those people make choice on what set up they want, if they arnt able to go for a drive in a car with a similar setup to get a feel for it. this will at
yeah dyno videos suck. seen one seen all. i dont even watch my own car on the dyno lol
I think a good reference video thread would be in car of the speedometer while driving on the street or track with a description of mods listed. Eg would be.. r34 gtr 2.8 -5 than you can compare with the next guy who has a standard -5 or -7. It would also make peoples choices easier who is thinking about -5 or -7 and you can compare the lag and how fast it builds revs ect
Problem with this is if you have a decent after market ecu you can fudge the Tacho to make things look alot better than they really are, that also goes double when they show ecu data video captures for speed aswell..... Also put R32/33 GTR Front n rear diffs/gears in an R34 GTR like alot of Jap shops used to do and watch the speedo!!! Not to say way too many Dyno's DONT seem extremely generous, but IMO listening to a car on the DYNO once you hear "THAT NOISE" you know something special is on the rollers..... I think put any and all video's up, there's always gona be haters and admirers..
least give them an idea of what it will be like.
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I would also like someone to explain how your torque plated engine means anything when your engine is actually running under power
Static comp might be better or leakdown might be 1-2% better.....or worse.
Dynamically, none of that matters. Your bore flexes like a barrel when you add cylinder pressure, heat and other factors.
Your torque plate doesn't factor any of that
You need to read a bit slower and think a bit longer..... I said you need the torque plate to block the water galleries off so the water can circulate. And can you please tell me how much "flexing" in the shape of a barrel occurs when you add cylinder pressure,heat,moon cycle,wind direction and any other factors? Dont say it depends, lets use 2Bar boost on a engine with 9:1 comp, 9000 rpm, 87mm bore, 77mm stroke,30 deg timing as an example. Just an estimate is ok coz obviously there are other factors.. Im just curious
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For those people interested in this topic the best way is to Hot Block bore/hone an engine. ie: the block actually has temprature regulated fluid running through it to wotever degrees you require during the entire machining process. And you have to use a torque plate otherwise the fluid cant circulate. Did quite afew RB26/27/28s engines using the equipment PMM (Paul Morris Motorsport) used to have when they did their chev V8 supercar engines in house. And yes it makes a difference 1-2% leakdown compared to 4-6% will always = more power... This technology came here from NASCAR like just about every other power producing secret/tweak/configuration used by the teams here.
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When you say 5 year build how long was the engine sitting after build before you started it? It does look more like steam than smoke...take breather tank out n see if any water/condensation is visible..You need to get a bore scope and look inside before any hard running IMO....
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My monies on cracked block if its got ARP head stud kit, or porrus holes in bores. Have a look at the block on the exhaust side were the oil feed banjo bolt goes into block... look for coolant stains (white-ish green) As someone else also suggested remove ALL spark plugs and if have access to bore scope is best to look inside, if not look for odd coloring on plugs. make sure you keep plugs matched to cylinders so you know were to look once you strip down engine. Hate to bearer of bad news bad you will be at best taking the head off. Ive never seen an OEM heat exchanger leak,crack,fail in 15 years of doing GTRs...
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Can it atleast be locked then.
Mate it sounds like you have been spooked into what your requesting SAU to do.... As some people here have said we are only giving you our own INDIVIDUAL opinions.... How you choose to use//interpret what has been said is up to you. I would like to see your tuner and engine builder join this conversation, that way we get to hear from the horse's ( no offence intended there) mouth. Who knows...... we might learn something and so might they!!! At the end of the day dude to all of us trying to give you the low down on what most likely happened are giving you our time and knowledge for free and we dont stand to gain anything except a warm fuzzy feeling we tried to help out a TOTAL stranger who had no were else to turn not get SHAFTED... Good luck with which ever path you pursue.
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No.1 cause of oil pump failures in GTRs is Balancer Bolt INCORRECTLY tightened!!!
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They informed me they put a borescope down the low comp cylinders and they had signs of Det and damaged bores on my already 87mm bored block.
I have heavily researched hard running in methods etc.
Now the tuners run in method was
Fire engine, free rev and blipping throttle under 50% till at temp, shut off engine check leaks etc, let it cool down, load it on the dyno and sit it at about 90kmh in 4th gear under medium load lowish boost for the 10kays.
I was under the impresion a good ring bed in required vartied loads, revs and engine braking?
On a fresh as fresh engine with good ring bed in what kind of cylinder pressures should be expected?
110psi for cylinders 3-6 seems low to me.
I have looked into many an engine with bore scopes and if he says he can clearly see theres damage/marks on the bores, i can assure you the top ring land has grabbed on the Inlet side of the piston... Ask your tuner how much timing he pulled out of the tune (which was for the old engine!!!).... From what u have said he changed nothing before doing a full power run on more boost than was requested... If you can get him on record (signed doc) that states he didnt change/do anything to tune before the run he's toast if you ask me... Any half decent tuner would tell you "do as your tuner did will end like your engine has"......
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Hey all about to take my pride and joy to "bayside automotive" I'm Brisbane gonna have abit of work done and is gonna cost a arm and a leg so just wanted to double check no one has had bad experience with ect?
Mate TBH you need to make the decision were to take your car yourself... Anyone who's friends with those people will encourage you and anyone who either doesnt like those people or have friends with workshops will push you there... What you need to know is what type of warranty/gaurantee they will give on the work they do..... Biggest mistake most people make is taking their car to a shop because they have an XYZ with 83,759.2 AWHP that does 2.9406 1/4 mile... What that shop wouldn't tell you is they do 2 or 3 passes per engine rebuild/blow up.... Yet to see a drag car orientated shop produce a decent road car for a customer.. BTW ive no idea what Bayside do or specialise in but you shoud have tracked down some of there current and previous customers for a chit chat... Atleast 3 would give a good indication of the workmanship/skills..
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I love those words "no worrying amounts of knock". No knock is good knock
Even better is that he was actually looking for it!!! He couldn't "see" it????....... So how could it have been knocking... Must have had the head phones over his eyes!!! I dont want this comment to encourage you into confronting your tuner/builder guys but whats the point of flow bench testing the intake??? From what you have said ALL the cylinders have some degree of damage!!! As with just about any engine, 1 cylinder (rarely 2 go if your paying attention to what your doing) goes bad before the others... Your engine has low comp in ALL cylinders just because 2 are worse than the others just means those 2 were always going to be the ones to keep monitering when tuning... Just about every engine bar an F1 engine would have the excact same type of problem. Being a particular clyinder is most likely to be the 1 to fail...
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Okay first up I previously had a built 25/30 running 356kw using the same head and custom intake manifold.
Only changes this build were to the oiling system, 0.5 higher comp ratio, total seal rings, cam change from 232 duration 6.5mm lift cams to 262/9.1mm with appropriate springs and port tidy up and match the intake manifold ports.
Now I had discussed with the tuner I only wanted it ran off spring pressure in the wastegate so I can learn to drive it at that power level First, made it very clear I wanted a super safe tune and wasn't to concerened with the power level.
So he apparently he had it up and running, bedded the rings In on the dyno for around 10kays, changed out the mineral oil to redline oil ready to get into tunning.
Then he tells me he's ran it up for a power run without touching anything with the tune or boost, where it pulled only 320wkw on 21psi. Down considerably on the old setup and boosted well past where I wanted.
Now apparently Afr's were safe the whole time.
After fixing a small coolant leak the car wasn't idling right and had smoke pluming out of the catch can. Comp test revealed front 2 cylinders down around 50psi and the rest were at about 110psi (which I feel is extremely low for a brand new engine).
Now the engine builder and tuner are unsure of why this has happened but only suspects are the custom intake manifold which kinda points the throttle body towards cylinders 1-2.
I would post a pic of intake manifold but I'm posting from iPhone away at work.
But it's the intake manifold off dahtone racings old 2GUUp candy red r32 skyline.
Now I'm curious if anyone has had similar issues due to a plenum? And who should kind of be at fault here?
I'm far from happy so far!
Specs of the build as follows: rb25/30
Custom je pistons with total seal rings and spool rods, usual block and crank prep, nitto oil pump, lewis engines race sump, r32 rb25de non vct head, ported, springs, cam tech 264/9mm cams, custom intake manifold, sard 700cc injectors, twin entry rail, walbro lift pump, 044 feed pump, haltech e11v2 ecu with boost control. Twin scroll t04z, 0.8 rear housing, turbo smart 50mm gate.
Sorry about big post! Cheers all
The second line in your post explains it pretty obviously IMO.... 0.5 : 1 up in comp ratio, bigger/different cams and he does a FULL power run without even atleast putting 15-20% fuel trim into tune is asking for trouble!!! Surely they checked ignition timing before even starting the run-in....(but i bet they didnt) Also what was the comp in previous set-up? Engine builder must know...If i was you id do as Elite says about not being to raggy...But if they start trying to baffle you with BS i would be going for them to repair at they're expense..
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when i bought my r33 gtr engine and took the sump off to fit a tomei sump baffle, we changed the main and rod bearings just as a preventative measure
stock bearings and journals were still great, so standard size replacements went back in, i was advised to do 1000kms to "take the sharp edges off" before giving it hell.
Can you please let me know which brand bearings you used? I just want to avoid this brand that has these "sharp edges"... Most bearing failures are caused by detonation, failed oil pumps (no oil pressure,oil surge on track cars) and the thing you rarely get told about....... Foreign materials ie: DIRT.... and blocks,heads and every single part not being thoroughly cleaned...
WTB - R33 GTR Grill Clips & Other Stuff
in Wanted to Buy
Posted
Im on the Gold Coast. ‘97-98 brake ducts are slightly deeper. You would need a 97-98 bottom bumper lip for them to fit. I only have the 95-96 ones anyway. Inner guards from memory are all the same.