maxim

Hey, Brakes still available?

No, RWD. Don't think there would be anyway to make a 4wd s13 with a rb or equivlant size engine. No unless you wanted to raise it like 3" from stock! Speaking of AWD, I wonder if you could drop in a GTIR Sr20 (east west config still ) complete with gearbox and make an AWD s13 that way? Interesting...

Hey Mase, I don't think modification of the firewall would need occur depending on the crossmember you used. The trans tunnel I would imagine may need some attention such as widening similar to the 'procedure' (hammering the hell out of it) when fitting a RB25 gearbox. The crossmember may need to be fabricated from scratch (Expensive) but I think the dimensions of the 1jz to the rb25 are very similar. Nothing like a wet track and alot of rear wheel power to put a smile on the dial is there! good times

I have a RB25 180sx and the dry weight was 1245. A standard SR 180sx is around 1200 I believe. Add to this I have 18"s then this whole 'wreaks handling' arguement is way overdone! I'd suggest you wont notice any difference unless you are on a fast race track. As for the weight balance question in general, there are plenty of front wheelers out there that handle with the best of them despite 65/35 distribution. As people have mentioned, it's all about correct setup. Anyway why not consider somthing different such as a 1jz? I'm actually selling my RB25 180 to do just that. Starting with a NA silvia chassis then adding a TT model 1jz, w58 manual gearbox and the icing on the cake, a Blitz k26 turbo kit from Japan, plus alot more goddies. You can get a 1jz halfcut (auto) for $2000-$2500. The 1jz is highly underrated, I suggest just as durable bottom end (300rwkw+) as the rb26 but maybe not as efficient topend (cam's, intake etc) in standard trim. Stll you can have four 1jz engines for the price of one rb26...... 'Nistoy' cooming soon

Hey Ants, Check the pics I just took - the story is I bought this some months ago because I thought mine was faulty due to misfiring (due to someones ill advice). Ended up being a fouled plug so I have two AFM's and one car This is the one I had in the car before I changed it with the one I bought. This one was in fine working order for 9 months before I took it out to exhange it. I guarantee it is in perfect working order.

Sure does. Just plug it in and your in business.

As above, $70. In excellent working order. Pics on request. Thanks

Hey Guys, I heard today someone mentioning that external wastegates are illegal in the ACT (maybe aus wide). Anyone know if this is correct? Thanks

Beautiful!!!!!!! Thanks a million, exactly what I was after. Cheers

Hey Guys, Is there anyway you can increase the idle or base idle speed on the RB25det? Reason, mine seems to be to low, 2secs after cold startup the engine struggles badly and you have to give it some throttle for a few around 5 secs in which afterwards it runs fine. Thanks

For sale is a AFM for a series 1 RB25det. For sale due to I beleived my original to be fauty so bought a replacement. Ended up not being AFM so for it's for sale. Obviously has been tested and works fine. Price $100 neg + postage at buyers expense or cod in ACT. Pics available on request

Will do, thanks for the advice!

Hey Sato, It's actually a 180sx with an series 1 rb25det conversion. I've got Splitfire coils which apparently are pretty good. After I changed and gapped the new copper plugs seems to be running fine apart from some heitation on cold starts. Running 11psi on a cold (Canberra) night seems to be fine too. I will clean the coils however as when I was looking at them seemed as if they had been in there for 100 years!

Well I ended up getting coppers (BCPR6ES) because A) no-where I went had them in stock without ordering them in next week and B) the gap on the current ones was 1.1m, and as you guys said gapping them isn't a good idea unless you want to break them. I gapped them to .8mm and after taking my car for a hard 10min run on ~11psi (in like 7c ambient temp) I'm happy to say the misfiring has dissapeared when before it would have been chronic. Thanks for the help!

Hey J, Quick question, what is the easiest way to gap a plug?

Jay your a champion!! Thanks for helping me out again! BTW ran through the ecu codes with the other lack of low down power and came up with code 13. Water temp sensor. Has now been replaced and car 'seems' to have picked up some mid range. Maybe the fault retarted timing or something? Dyno run soon will see. Thanks again mate, I'll head out now and get a replacement and a feeler. Cheers!

Hey Guys, been having a misfring problem so decided to rip out the plugs. ECU is not giving any codes so I'm pretty strongly thinking its them. I've got NGK Iridum's BCPR6EIX-11 which I was told by the mechanic who put them in are gapped to .8mm. ( I need to get a feeler I know) In the pics, The one from cyc 1 is black (fouled?), the rest look fine so should I replace them all with coppers and gap to .8mm or replace the 1st one only? Any suggestions would be great, thanks!

Sweet I'll get onto it tomorrow. I need to invest in a good multimeter. The VCT sounds like the most obvious thing at this stage. Thanks for your help J, appreciate it.

Hey Jay, Thanks for your effort! Appreciated. Damn hope you came out of the accident alright! What's the story behind that? From what you've told me i'm thinking the VCT could be dud. The only other thing I was thinking of was base timing but I'm pretty sure its ok. The 2nd dyno sheet has a far meatier low-mid range as I would have expected from a rb25, what I don't have! A practical example, I was going through a sweeping left into a form onelane when some chump in a VL (na) tried to beat me to it. After going full throttle it wasent until I hit top end did I reel and pass him. Has is that dyno of std boost? I'll get my mechanic to check out the VCT asap but is there any easy checks I could do like unplug and if its no change then thats the problem? The otherthing I thought it might be is related to the missfiring but that has only been occuring the last few weeks with the sluggishness ever since day 1.

Hey Jay, Sorry I should have put it in. It's a RB25det. Actually might sound weird but I think I already have yours! I did a search awhile ago for dyno runs and got a collection of guys posts and I'm pretty sure I found yours too. from the 28/1/04? I noticed your mid range is heaps beefier than mine but top end is same ish (might be other variables of course). Did you end up getting some kind of fuel controller? Looks like from the graph you could get massive gains from tuning the AFR.

Hey Robo, Just wondering if you have any dyno sheets I could compare against? I plan to give it some more boost, but defintley need to fix the annoying missfiring issues. Thanks

Had my car dyno'd by Autotech (ACT) last week. I feel it was a good result and was hoping for some comment. Dyno not run in shootout mode. Air temp ~14c. Blue line is std boost, red peak ~8psi. My car has what follows, FMIC ~ 500x300x65 3" from dump back exhaust POD Manual boost via bleed Splitfire coils (not really important I know) 500hp Bosch Fuel pump Everything else otherwise std. Problem is the car still feels very flat under 5000rpm as the graph indicates. Also I couldn't wind boost higher than 8psi due to a misfring issue that has yet to be sorted. (btw plugs 'should' be fine. Plantium's gapped to .8mm). I believe it to be the ignitor module, or coils. Just wondering if anyone had any comment about the powercurve re flat feelin under 5000rpm (100kph). Thanks!!

I'm not sure what they are called exactly. Not the OBDI port, but the engine warning light as it is referred to on the diagram I have. (which why I'm not using it's not very clear and doesn't seem to be S1)

Hey Guys, I've searched around and I have Meggals diagram but his appears to be for a series II. Does anyone have a pinout diagram for the loom on a series I RB25det? What I'm looking for in particular is the engine warning pins because my ecu doesn't have the damn LEDS!! (and its a 180 so no warning light on the HUD style dash). Any info would be great

Hey Guys, I think my air flow meter is causing an array of problems on my car, most noticably misfiring when on boost. I believe it to be the AFM as just about everything else has been changed or tested. (I have cleaned it) I was just hoping someone could lend me a series 1 4pin afm for like 10mins? I would be happy to pay like $30 or so as it saves the hassel of getting it tested etc etc. If anyone has a spare, would be tremendous. Thanks