Reflector
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Posts posted by Reflector
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No worries mate. Also something else to consider - Due to the walbro being smaller and having a 45deg filter sock, it will fit a lot nicer into the cavity of the fuel tank allowing pick up a little further down the tank than what the bosch pumps permit. I've always commended bosch for having quality products but this time round, I can definitely say for an R33 Skyline application - Walbro > Bosch.
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Mate I've just been through this exact same problem over the last few months with the bosch 023 (040 big bro). First time pump last 3months but got noisier and noiser. Must've got a bad batch of fuel or something because it started leaning out big time and groaning badly. Fuel pressure dropped 2 bar. Took out the pump and the entire screen was filled with minuscule particles. Bought a new 023 whilst cleaning the old one and testing. Fixed the problem for about 1.5months then did the same thing. Exact same problem but I have suspicion my 'Submersible fuel line' was not what it was supposed to be. Replaced old pump, Was fine for 3 days then the same thing happened.
Long story short. The bosch intake fuel pumps are incredibly sensitive to debris. Seeing as they only have a screen mesh and no removable filter they are restricted to a flat surface area that once blocked, cannot allow sufficient fuel to be delivererd to the system. If you have a fuel pressure regulator with a gauge, check your current pressure at idle.
Solution - Install a walbro. Your current power figure could get by with a 255lph but if you plan on chasing more power (I have the same turbo @ 300rwkw) go for the 400lph to future proof. They're smaller, more efficient, easier to fit and have a larger surface area of pick up due to the removable filter sock.
Edit: Forgot to mention - I only fitted the walbro 400lph pump on Tuesday but the pump is dead quite, fuel pressure is up around 3bar idle (vacuum off) and it's the smoothest it's been in months. Will be pulling out the pump in a few months time to asses the sock as I still believe there's debris in my tank. -
I was REALLY impressed with that conversion. It was definitely a beautiful set up and sounded the piece on the road too. Great to cruise from southside with the R34 LS2 and the R33 LS1.Not to take anything away from the winner. BUT the blue LS1( or was it an LS2) conversion was clean as
Haha, there's more cleaning to do - if I had more time I would have spent another few hours doing the underside of the bonnet. Until the motor comes out, it's all hand polishing and TLC for that engine bay.It was one of the ones that was very close to winning. There were about 4 or 5 that were very close but Reflectors looked like he had spent about a week cleaning under there as well as having a very neat set up and that edged him in front.
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I happily accepted the awardWho won best engine bay?
Was so stoked, alot of hard hours put in but definitely made it worth the effort!
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hello reflector I think I saw you last night, however I did not check this thread prior.
it was a good night to go last night. not much cars, ample track time!
Hey should've come and said hi!
Granted, I didn't stay long, 1 pass (if you'd call it that). Car leaned out 3500rpm and over big time! Once I got it back to the workshop I found the fuel pump to be flowing 1/4 of it's flow rate
Months of the car running fine - first time to the track with new build and that happens. Oh well, installing new pump tomorrow
and probably take her out once more before the cruise haha -
Anyone from south side heading out to willowbank tonight? Figured it best to get some runs in before the stormy weather bombards us again
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Can't wait! Missed last year's due to the turbocharger saying a big 'eff you!'. 12months later and a smaller bank account, the upgrades are done
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yes if i can afford i'd love a CES exhaust on the 260rs, what did you exhaust set you back ?
Done at trade price. Rest assured still not cheap but the quality of the product far surpasses that of a cheaper replica. Imho better off saving for longer and just getting the better product. Do it once, do it right.
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If you're not too worried about driving a little south (Logan area) Trevor at CES does top quality work. He also offers a turbo back system for R33's. I've had a 3->3.5" custom dump and a custom muffler made, great sound and maximum flow.
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Just saw an add on TV showing $79 from Target.
Only $79 in Dicksmith's. I would imagine EB is selling it for $109.95 because people are more inclined to bring their old games in, trade in and get a lower price.
I went Dicksmith, about 3 other people inquiring about purchasing it as I left the counter. Good game so far, too bad my 1080i TV doesn't do it too much justice
Time to hook it up to the 27" Asus monitor and reap the benefits of LED LCD goodness ! -
Have heard good things about millennium not bad readings at the same boost level I'm running.
Out of curiosity what was it like price wise ?
Price was done at an agreeable trade value. I'm not sure how many hours the average tuner charges to tune a car (assuming they're tuned from scratch) but because we did a pre-tune in house/street tune (no dyno) before handing it over to Carlos, it did make the job a lot easier/not as time consuming. best bet is to call and talk to him as I'm sure he can help with a full quote or per hr figure
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You're running a very similar set up to me except I went with a Link G4. My advice to you is if you plan on tuning yourself, then driving it on the street, you'll need to tune real time on the road to correct mixtures at various loads - I do NOT recommend you do this by yourself and it is strongly advised you understand A/F mixtures and timing (among other things) before you attempt anything. Idle mixtures differ greatly compared to mixtures under load (especially with boost coming on). If the vi-pec is anything like the link plug and play (vi-pec and link are incredibly similar), there should be an included base map that will be enough for you to start the car and do any prechecks you need. Typically they are a very rich ('safe') base tune and are exactly that - a base tune, designed to be enough to start the car and drive it onto the dyno for a full tune.
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Thanks man. I copped a lot of negative responses when stating I wanted to ditch VCT. In all honesty, I'd be interested to see the difference with the same set up with VCT enabled (guess smaller inlet cam with VCT support) but these RB engines really perform beautifully from 3000rpm onwards. It all depends on what your goals are.
Question is, what are you hoping to achieve? More response, more low down torque, more top end power? What other supporting mods do you currently have?
Camtech are a good choice regardless, great customer service and their products are high quality. -
bottom to mid is what will be affected by vct. interested to know...
Reflector: post up a dyno graph if you have one
This is without the cams degree'd (currently doing it now - Cars off the road).
Running 14-15psi through an Apexi-AVCR however we're ditching that as the boost controller in the future and using the Link G4 to control the boost. Going to put 18psi through mid range and bleed off to 15psi. Once I get some spare dollars I'll rebuild the bottom end and then the fun begins. In regards to driveability, it's a kitten down low, drives perfectly, put your foot down and it's a lot of fun - need some stickier tyres haha
. This set up was built with 1/4 mile in mind as well. We had to put limitations (cuts) at redline (7500rpm) as it wanted to keep making power above and beyond but with a stock bottom end, there's not point pushing it. -
I'm running 272deg 9mm lift camtech cams with a GTX3076r. 300rwkw on 15psi. High quality parts, no complaints here what soever. No VCT here. Can't recall if the 268degs were out with VCT support when I bought mine or not.
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Updated page from downshift guys. Seems this is being taken quite seriously with a lot of evidence and data being collected from many sources. Good to see that this wasn't just shoved under the rug... how far we get is a completely different ball game.
http://www.downshiftaus.com/2013/an-open-letter-to-the-premier/ -
Was a good meet. HEAPS of cars there, quite a decent amount of skylines as well. When I left the organisers were directing everyone to turn 'Right' at the exit straight towards the defect station. I'm guessing someone must have spoken with with them otherwise we should have been able to exit left. That being said, 2 defect stations = no way around. I went through fine, no pull over... could have been because there was heaps getting the 'once over' at that particular time
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Just my two cents - I personally went with Carlos from Millennium Motorsport. After we finished the build, completed a safe road and ensured the car was right for the dyno I took it to him. He had the car tuned in one day but opted to keep it for a few to sort out the cold start accurately. His customer service was professional and anything that was needed to be explained was done so in person. Very genuine guy.
Results - 402.6rwhp @ only 15psi (on pump 98) and the car drives like a dream. Car wanted to keep making power but we agreed to keep it safe (being stock bottom end). -
Price drop
GReddy (copy) manifold + Throttlebody + HKS style fuel rail + bolts and bits - $420
Stainless Steel R33 Turbo Dump Pipe (R33 Stock turbo application) - $275Silver HPC coated RB25Det Tappet Covers (with gaskets still in) - $120
VR/VS Commodore Altezza Style Tail Lights - $50
Refer to link for descriptions in first post -
Price Drop
GReddy (copy) manifold + Throttlebody + HKS style fuel rail + bolts and bits - $420
Stainless Steel R33 Turbo Dump Pipe (R33 Stock turbo application) - $275Silver HPC coated RB25Det Tappet Covers (with gaskets still in) - $120
VR/VS Commodore Altezza Style Tail Lights - $50 -
Dayymmmm. That is a very sweet retrofit right there. My hat goes off to you. Out of curiosity, how did you separate the lens from the housing? I've always been sceptical about placing a full plastic headlight in an oven
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Open to reasonable offers or a bulk offer
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For anyone interested I have these Items for sale here
Link has prices and details
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/427112-r33-parts-and-pieces-commodore-tail-lights-qld/GReddy (copy) manifold + Throttlebody + HKS style fuel rail + bolts and bits
Stainless Steel R33 Turbo Dump Pipe (R33 Stock turbo application)
Silver HPC coated RB25Det Tappet Covers (with gaskets still in)
Apexi Power Intake for R33
Drift 3" POD filter
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VR/VS Commodore Altezza Style Tail Lights Figured these would get burried in the general forsale section pretty quickly. All items are located in QLD Beenleigh. I am open to reasonable offers
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All items are located in QLD - Beenleigh - 4207
Contact (8am-5pm business hours): 3807 1588 - Ask for Jake.After hours: Private message me on here.
Pick up: Will depend on time of day.
Postage: Will post items at buyers expense (after payment has cleared or proof is sent).
Item: GReddy (copy) manifold + Throttlebody + HKS style fuel rail + bolts and bits
Reason for sale: Ending up buying genuine
Description/Condition: This item is brand new NEVER been used/fitted to the car. That being said, when I initially purchased the manifold I was less than satisfied with the condition of the cast and port job so I spent some time squaring ports, de-dagging, filing and painting it. The result is a much nicer job than I first received. There is one section on the manifold (see pictures) that didn't allow the paint (VHT Matte black exhaust) to dry correctly as there was some slight defect in the casting. This does not effect the performance and is merely a visual difference.
Price: $450
PLEASE NOTE: No throttle body or intake manifold gasket are/were included.
Item: Stainless Steel R33 Turbo Dump Pipe (R33 Stock turbo application)
Reason for sale: No longer running stock turbo
Description/Condition: Was on the car when I purchased it (4yrs ago) and put on by the previous owner. Supported 215rwkw from stock turbo set up. Beautiful sound, plenty of flow, plumbed back wastegate pipe. Just recently got it polished back to a shiny condition.
Price: $300
PLEASE NOTE: No gasket/bolts included.Item: Silver HPC coated RB25Det Tappet Covers (with gaskets still in)
Reason for sale: Went with a different colour scheme
Description/Condition: Got these coated roughly 2.5yrs ago and were on the car for close to 2yrs. HPC coating has minor surface scratches in some areas - nothing that has damaged the coating itself. Perfect for keeping under bonnet temperatures down. Gaskets are NOT rock hard and could be used again. Will come with stock oil filler cap if desired.
Price: $150Item: Apexi Power Intake for R33
Reason for sale: No longer fits set up
Description/Condition: Apexi filter is in a good condition - slight staining but no restriction of flow through element. Comes with afm-to-pod gasket and mounting bracket.
Price: $35
PLEASE NOTE: AFM is NOT included.
Item: Drift 3" POD filter
Reason for sale: No longer fits set up
Description/Condition: Only used for half a year (if that). Took it off and fitted Apexi Power Intake. For some reason it has decided to rust a tiny bit on the metal casing. No water or liquid was spilt on it - a mystery as to why it went that way in storage. Turn it downwards and you can't notice it.
PrIce: $10
PLEASE NOTE: Does NOT come with a mounting flange - POD Only.
Item: VR/VS Commodore Altezza Style Tail Lights
Reason for sale: Don't have a commodore anymore
Description/Condition: These are in near perfect condition. I say near perfect because the outer rubber liner is a little weathered in a couple of spots - other than that, nothing wrong. Lenses are mint, no cracking or scratches.
Price: $60
. This set up was built with 1/4 mile in mind as well. We had to put limitations (cuts) at redline (7500rpm) as it wanted to keep making power above and beyond but with a stock bottom end, there's not point pushing it.
Rb25 + Gt3076R & Mods, Made Low Power On Dyno Tune Why?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by Reflector
This. Just do it and rest assured it's an asset to your build. I've always HPC coated my exhaust components (if the wallet permitted I'd do the entire system
) but my turbo manifold, ex housing and dump pipe/wastegate plumb is all coated. Granted, it is still hot (but greatly reduced) and you can feel that under the engine bay... but consider this... what would it be like without it? Whilst off, definitely beneficial if you can afford it.