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RDirty24door

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Posts posted by RDirty24door

  1. Hi guys had a Slight mishap this morning in the wet locked up bam back of a 4wd no damage what so ever to his car but my whole N1 GTR front on my r32 Sedan was destroyed to which im looking for the following parts.

    *GTR bonnet

    *GTR latch and Upright

    *GTR N1 reo

    *GTR N1 Headlights

    Im located in Melbourne Victoria

    Cheers.

  2. you have to split the manifold and then take out the other half once the top is off. highly unlikely its the same hose as previous post says possibly a blockage would cause more pressure in the cooling system so it is now just finding the next weakest link and blowing that hose instead. in my first 32 i did the same thing kept replacing hoses untill id replaced them all. trying to find a silicone heater hose kit atm for my rb20 with out much luck.

  3. its meant to be control chassis and control engine so i have heard, wether its true or not tho, just seems to be going more nascar like. which would possible make it a level playing field for a few years as all the data for full bodied cars would be different for say a nascar body chromoley chassis so it could be good. hopefully anyway

  4. fellow skyline owners and others that arent who are still here anyways roman, adam etc lol please donate to the greatest shave for me as i will be shaving my head in support as last year my father was diagnosed with lymphoma cancer so to say thanks to all those doctors and nurses for there help and support towards my dad i am raising money for the cause please donate as much or as little as possible as it all counts. not a huge poster on this site but i need all the help i can get my goal is $1,000 so i hope some of you maybe able to help me on my way to reaching that goal.

    cheers in advance

    grant

    http://my.leukaemiafoundation.org.au/GrantTaylor

  5. on the hoist here at work i can get each side done in about 30 mins to 45mins so arm out old bushes out new bushes in arm back in the car and wheel aligned in about an hour and a half with no problems ie stripped nuts and bolts etc. fairly straight forward job.

  6. you will need to modify the gearbox bracket. The 4 bolt holes that are in the body for the bracket are further forward in an auto, the hole in the floor is also in a different position but thats ok.

    what will happen is regardless if you use an auto/manual bracket (they are the same anyway) you will go to bolt up the bracket and only one hole on each side will line up, you will need to either modify the bracket like I did to make it longer and drill 2 new holes for the other two bolts..

    OR

    get two flat steel bar peices and bolt them to the underside of the bracket, recess the head of one of the bolts into the chassis and drill a hole at the other end of the bar to mount into the body.

    you will then need to bridge the neutral park switch circuit so it thinks its in park all the time, otherwise it wont start

    cheers for the reply mate. couple of questions

    1. if you say the holes in the floor are further forward in an auto that would make them 2 different chassis auto/manual correct? as you said only 2 of the holes line up so is this with the gear box mount connected to the steel plate that bolts to the floor? is there anywhere on here that has a diagram of where to bridge the neutral switch?

    thanks.

  7. where would i find this info as i just bought a 2 door tailshaft. the only difference i no of is yes between auto and manual and the 4 doors have different boot lights and rear bar and the 4 door is only 50mm longer than the 2 door. if anyone can concrete confirm this it would be greatly appreciated.

  8. your more at risk of having your car stolen if you do use forums as your putting your pride and joy all over the internet. whats to say they arent scoping sites for nice cars then narrowing down there search by contacting you for something you might be selling or maybe your buying, all im saying is beware there are many methods people will use to gain info on our cars like sites like this. if your wondering how i would no this go check boostcruising.com and see how many members rides have been stolen as there is a few.

  9. You also have to worry about all the machine work to the block which also takes up alot of $$$$. cost me near on 3k just for machining to a dirty old CA18det but that was the full treatment inc matching the engine bores to the cross weaves in the CP forged pistons. you will never build a motor as cheap as what you would be able to buy off someone. if your going to buy a built motor ask for as many details about the motor as possible inc receipts for labour costs parts receipts etc if all that is unavailable to you then you cannot be 110% what your buying. id suggest you ring a few workshops and talk to them about it as they will ask you questions like what you intend to do with the car. In most cases rebuilding an RB26 if you cant afford all top dollar parts juts make sure you get at least an N1 oil pump as the standard pumps sometimes have trouble getting oil to the top of the head. have you thought about just putting in another standard motor? as obviously your not wanting it to be a dyno queen usually you would only rebuild the motor if you no your going to be giving it shit other wise imo id be just looking for a half cut and you will then have shit loads of spares left over.

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