Silvarh

An idea I was running through my mind was to buy the boss kit with 2 quick switch adapter kits, I could switch to my Nardi wheel when going on cruise days ect and switch back to the OEM wheel when using my car for daily use. I understand the rules and such but would this idea be able to bend the rules a little?

Hi guys, I bought myself a deep corn Nardi wheel a while ago and was talking to my mechanic as I never had a chance to install it (was waiting for a boss kit that never arrived). He told me that because my car is fitted with an airbag it would render the car defectable to replace the OEM wheel with the aftermarket one. My question to anybody who may have gone through this is, is there a legal way that I can use my Nardi wheel?? Thanks in advance!

Hey there guys, just really excited and keen to share my news that I've bought a 33 GT-R V-Spec!

Oh and to post the proper problem why it wasn't working.. I accidentally hooked the catch can hose up to the idle control valve (not sure if that's the correct name). Hopefully that may help people in the future haha! Time to find a nipple and weld it onto the pipe I'm running off the throttle body. Btw as per suggested I've extended the intake pipe so that the filter sits behind the headlights.

I think I'm going to take up on what everyone is saying and save up to buy a new engine. Seems the logical thing to do as my engine has seen its best part of 18 years lol. 4 months till I'm off my P's so time to save for an RB25DET! Btw thanks to everyone who gave me some pointers with this, really appreciate it ^.^

I've got a snorkel that I can attach to the filter, would that help at all or would i need to get a longer intake pipe? Also getting a new engine would be tough as I'm currently a full time student zzz

Starting to think I should probably get a new mechanic lol

Almost 250,000 ^.^

My mechanic told me that Iv'e got an oil leak problem with my engine and the cost effective preventative measure against any possible damage was to install the catch can. I'm not 100% on what the exact problem is aside from being told that I'll have to rebuild most of the engine /sigh.

Get a resonator installed, it's quite cheap and you can ask to get it removed afterwards xD

So guys today my friend and I installed a D1 Spec oil catch can and a K&N cold air intake into my RB25DE. This took quite a little time as I was given some wrong piping and tried my best to fit everything together which I eventually did. So roughly 2-3 hours into the project we've installed everything and I'm hooking up the last pipe onto my catch can and to my dismay I find that the pipe that the hose is attaching to is too big! I tried to heat up the hose to stretch it and expand it but to no avail. So I ended up buying a hose to fit onto it which surprisingly fit as it was a Ford Falcon pipe of some sort. So with everything attached I go to start up my car and what do you know.. it chokes out. Amazing. I gave up and went inside and thinking about how I dismantled the OEM pipes I realized that /sigh... I put the air flow sensor on back to front =.=" So tomorrow I'm going to try and fix this problem and hopefully fix my car lol, I''ll share this picture of everything that I've done today. If anybody can find anything else that I may have done wrong please feel free to post, all the more help is welcome lol! *Oh and the reason the black pipe coming out of the catch can is massive is because I just bought it and didn't know if it would fit properly or not so I was just trying it on.*

Hi there guys, so my suspension needs some maintenance done on it as my tie rods need replacing. I went to a mechanic near my place and they only fixed the right hand side tie rod end whilst charging me over $400 to do it =.=" So my left side is still in need of repair so I figure that I'll do it myself. I was wondering if anybody could point me in the right direction as per parts that I'll need. Looking on JJR I found a set of rose jointed tie rod ends and I was wondering if anybody could tell me if these would fix my problem, I'll post the link below. If anybody has any other suggestions to help me please feel free to post and thank you in advance! JJR tie rod end: http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16549&cat=&page=4

Heya there guys, just needing a little bit of help before I accidentally destroy my accelerator pedal. I have recently bought a set of Sparco pedals which I really like and have installed the clutch and brake pedals...albeit a bit of trouble as drilling through the metal resulted in not being able to screw the nut of the back because of the damn set up of the pedals! But anyway, on my r33 i haven't drilled through the accelerator pedal yet as the metal pedal doesn't fit all the way over the original pedal, there is roughly ~5-8mm overhanging if I did mount it to the original. Thus getting to my question... is there a special way to mount my after-market pedal or some way to remove the original pedal to the metal backing behind it? (if there is a metal backing behind it!)...or would i have to bear with the over hanging plastic or file it down to suit or something like that? Thanks in advance guys!

Hey theres guys, sorry for not updating this thread... i sort of forgot haha! Well I did manage to fix this problem, I put everything back together how it was and that worked great so instead of replacing all the pipe work i returned all the parts i bought and bought a K&N cold air intake instead. It is a VERY tight squeeze but hey... it suits the engine bay all nice and black and seems to be working quite well. All in all I think some advice I can offer to people is to invest in a more expensive product as they work better!! xD

The car originally had a Drift cylinder pod filter on it with a makeshift heat shield... the heat shield was scratching the engine bay so thats my reason for wanting to change it. I had the AFM connected when i put everything together and now when I restored everything. How do i reset the ECU though?