ls128
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Posts posted by ls128
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Yes, push it manually. You are pushing the slave cylinder pushrod back inside the slave cylinder. If it's locked in place or can't be pushed far, it's over adjusted and the master cylinder internal cup seal is blocking the recovery port which means its over adjusted. If you can push it all the way back inside then you have another problem (assuming it's bled correctly - if not bled correctly, it will feel spongy by hand)
Ok. Shall try that when I get home from work. In the mean time, recommendations on a replacement clutch if I need one?
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So after reading my last comment you checked the slave cylinder pushrod can be pushed back inside the slave?
No, that shall be done tonight.
Do I need to push it in manually, or have someone push the clutch inside the cabin and watch it?
If it can't be pushed back in, that means it's over adjusted?
Thanks
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It was adjusted by my mate who is a mechanic - and then checked by another mate who has experience with Nissan clutches and he looked at the adjustment/felt the free play and said that was all adjusted correctly..
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The pedal feels exactly the same as it did before I originally blew the slave cylinder. It's a very very heavy pedal, heavier then any other car i've driven.
But after bleeding several times, the feeling returns to as it was originally.
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Does it necessarily matter where you bleed it from as long as you get all the air out of the system?
So you mean essentially remove the loop within the hard line so there is less distance for the fluid to travel?
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We saw air bubbles come out of the master cylinder, and topped it up 4-5 times (the master cylinder Reservoir )
Where is the dampner box? Still learning all about this and pretty much winging it as I go..
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Where did you bleed it from? If its just from the slave, then that I dont think it will be effective. Actually, i cant really see the point of a bleeder on the slave....
Yeah from the slave..after we dropped all the fluid out and put the new master cylinder on. We spent a fair bit of time making sure all the air was out of the system..
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We adjusted it more because before adjusting the rod it still wasn't giving enough pressure - my mechanic had a look and he said there was enough free travel.
Check booster unit as in how? We didn't touch the adjustment rod inside the booster unit.
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Disagree - what you have still sounds like its not fully disengaged. My guess is there's still air in hydraulic system. I'm told it can be a bitch to bleed the clutch hydraulics, especially the "dampener box", or whatever its called.
Ok abit more info:
Saturday, put a new master cylinder on. Adjusted the master cylinder inside the cabin (almost all the way, only 1-2mm of thread left) Worked for about 20 minutes of driving, then started doing the same issue. Often won't go into first, or reverse. Start the car in first, with the clutch fully in and the car will crawl forward like it is in gear (despite the clutch being foot to the floor.
System was gravity bled and pump bled for an hour. in total we bled it 3-4 times.
Spoke to a mechanic friend and he says that he had a similar issue and when he pulled his clutch out several of the clutch springs had come loose.
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So, Swapped Slave cylinder, Master cylinder - now when the car is in gear, and the clutch all the way down to the ground, car will creep forward like the clutch isn't engaged.. looks like i'm up for a new clutch
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I wasn't referring to clutch feeling. Read between the lines (Toyota genuine parts - keep the feeling)
Heh yeah, I realised that about an hour after I replied and was re-reading the post.
Got a genuine nissan slave for $105. Swapping it out tomorrow morning and bleeding. lets hope!
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It's definitely the slave, had a proper look under the car tonight. For the extra 15 dollars I will probably go to JustJap as it is very very very local for me, Not sure if I will do the master, as that makes it a much bigger job then just slave, correct?
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"Keep the feeling"?
It's a twin plate..its the heaviest clutch I have ever felt!
Just jap has slave for 115, master is 300..braided clutch hose is about 150.
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Yes, when I checked it at the time, it was empty.
Ok thanks, I will give that a try - in the mean time should I shop around for a slave cylinder?
There was fluid all over the ground in the initial spot, and again when I moved the car when the tow truck came.
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Went for a charity car cruise yesterday..car had been very rarely not wanting to go into gear (i.e i'd have the clutch all the way in and it wouldn't select)
Didn't think much of it as it would just be a little grind when trying to shift quickly, when I Went slower it went in.
Went to do a 3 point turn in a car park, put clutch down to the floor....no pressure.
Pushed the car into a parking spot, saw clutch fluid all over the ground.
Spoken to a few of my mechanic mates they all think it's the slave cylinder that has failed, does anyone have any idea? Or seen this before?
Car has a HKS Twin Plate clutch.
Thanks!
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Hey, would you happen to have the clutch slave cylinder? Thanks
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Got the clutch slave cylinder by any chance??
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Do you have a clip of what the Blitz BOV's sound like if possible? Or can find one of the specific Bov's?
Thanks
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Still got the intercooler mesh?
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This morning around 10am, a white 33 GTR ( I think) along Heathcote road near menai - I was going the other way in the black 32 GTR!
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Ah alright thanks alot - I guess i'll find out tomorrow when the grill I ordered arrives! I want to change them to the projector ones anyways because I would like to put HID's in!
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I was told when I purchased my GTR that these are geniune "N1 Racing Headlights", however I was told by a member on this forum that they aren't due to not having the clips for the grill.
Can anyone confirm/deny this for me?
Thanks!
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Would you be willing to ship to NSW?
Thanks
Clutch Slave Cylinder (Maybe) R32 Gtr
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
You? Any of the other clutch experts on here.
Most likely going to get it rebuilt by Jim Berry.