Luke HCR32
-
Posts
137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Luke HCR32
-
-
Also selling C33 Laurel RB20DET Nistune Computer, suits all RB20DETs
$200 ONO
-
-
-
Also selling:
Stock R32 AFM with plug. - $40
Stock R32 injectors (full set) - $100
Price Drop:
Seats - $250 (set)
GT-R steering wheel - $150
Everything else - V. negotiable, make an offer, need this stuff GONE!
-
In serious need of an injector upgrade for my RB20 as I've already done Turbo and AFM and found out the Denso 550s I bought are crap and are holding the engine back.
Must fit stock rail.
Cleaned/tested preferable.
No rewiring required preferable.
-
Got any injectors to suit RB20? What kind of setup is the catch can?
-
Now making 196.7 kW with boost peaking at around 20 psi and trailing off to 17.
Having issues with injectors as it turns out they are s4 rx7 style ones and have a bad spray pattern and huge dead time.
Also seems I have a cam angle sensor issue so I'm trying a different one.
-
Did manage to granny it there with the injectors, ran rich as and was fouled to shit by the time I arrived, old spark plugs were stuffed anyway.
Just a warning on the ceffy computers, the tuner actually had to get the developer of the Nistune in to try and sort it out, apparently the ceffy/laurel computer has a slower processor than the 32 and also for some reason will not hold AFRs as consistently, I traded mine in for a manual 32 gtst computer.
Also if anyone has a 32 computer with a black (instead of blue) sticker these have a faster processor again (usually only found in the 1993s).
Currently making 197 rwkw @ ~17 psi but injectors are playing up a bit.
-
Yeah it was sold as a non genuine AFM which was apparently "as good as genuine" no stickers or anything, dodgy looking filament, mesh only on one end of the tube, tuner said they've dealt with them before and they're rubbish.
The one I have now is a Bosch and has the orange Z32 JECS sticker on it, not sure about a Nissan logo but has the same build quality as my stock R32 AFM.
-
Exhaust is 3 inch all the way, empty cat, muffler with twin tips,overall power figure was limited by time mainly, a mate who went to the same tuner had a similar setup wound out to 237 kW @ ~20 psi, just can't see why I should be making 170 kW @ 16 psi, is this just a lack of tuning or an inherent problem with my setup (i.e. will they be able to make up ~30 kW at the same boost just through tuning).
-
I've heard Horsepower in a Box at Lonsdale is good by some 33 owners, too far south?
-
Also started off with a ceffy nistune computer then found out they have slower processors than 32 computers, then got a dodgy 32 nistune and then finally a good one.
-
I had a shit copy which was giving funny voltage signals so borrowed the tuners car to go pick up a genuine one, intend to get my money back on the crap one.
The tuner intends to keep working on it but 170 kW at 16 pound isn't very comforting.
-
Previous owner spent $1000 trying to fix the A/C shortly before selling the car yet it hasn't worked in the year that I've had it.
I have the 24 fault code and the -30 intake temperature, what kind of resistor do I need to ask for to make sure it fits this plug? Where do I go to get it? Jaycar?
-
I'm currently half way through a tune with Morpowa (Modbury) as they used to do my mates track car, supposedly good with Nissans, will let you know if I'm happy after Tuesday.
I've heard that Jaustech (Holden Hill) is cheaper and also very good.
-
I'm waiting to borrow a mates compression tester at the moment.
What's bothering me is I was already making 145 with the stock turbo and could've made 170 on stock turbo, injectors and AFM if i was willing to run a bit more boost...
-
1992 R32 GTS-T Type M - Manual
-Bosch 040 with relay
-300x600 front mount
-Pod filter with cold air box
-Superspark coil packs
-3 inch dump back exhaust
-Turbotech boost controller
143.5 rwkW @ ~11psi (Several months ago)
Recently embarked on a further set of upgrades
-Bosch Z32 AFM
-Denso 550cc injectors (bought second hand, cleaned and tested by KPM)
-Nistune computer
-Garrett GT2871R in RB25 housings
-3 inch Advance dump pipe
-Gutted cat
-New spark plugs (NGK platinum 7s)
Tuned on Thursday - 170 rwkW @ 16psi
Ran out of time at the dyno due to wasting most of the day with faulty computers and AFMs and I'm due back first thing on Tuesday (only got half an hour on the dyno by the time we got a working computer).
Very anxious as I was led to believe this setup should put out ~200 rwkW at ~16 psi and would be capable of 220kW plus at safe boost levels.
Dyno technician mentioned the carbon blowing out of the exhaust could indicate injectors not atomising correctly - how could this be? how much would this effect peak power?.
Current tune is quite laggy and rich, runs like a bitch when cold and stalls easily - still feels better than 143.5 and spins up much easier.
Is this purely a result of lack of dyno time and therefore rectified on Tuesday?
Any comments on this performance?
Cheers
Luke
-
I didn't manage to pull the guts out of mine like that, was that spring from the AAC valve or the solenoid?
Had my car on the dyno for a tune yesterday with some upgrades (Nistune, turbo, injectors, Z32 AFM) and I don't have the high idle problem anymore, guessing it was a computer fault.
-
Tuner told me to go with platinums, don't wanna be changing them all the time anyway
-
As far as i understand that air regulator compensates for the A/C, the AAC solenoid should have a separate signal.
I'm hitting the dyno tomorrow I'll get them to check for a computer fault.
-
Where/what is an air regulator? Same as an AFM?
-
My tuner has recommended I drive there with everything installed but the Z32 AFM and swap that in when I get there along with new plugs (NGK platinum 7's), have to granny it 25 kms to get there.
-
Recently followed the DIY thread on AAC cleaning here on my RB20DET R32:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/
When I plugged the AAC solenoid back in the revs jumped to 1800 and refused to come down no matter what I did.
I tested the solenoid by unscrewing it from the AAC valve housing and plugging it in and found that even though the engine was warm and nothing was putting load on it the solenoid arm was stuck outward (i.e. opening the diaphragm allowing air flow).
Is this a computer issue, a fuse or a case of needing a new solenoid?
I thought it would be unlikely for the solenoid to stick in the out position if it was stuffed, figured it would do nothing at all.
Would my only choice be to go brand new genuine Nissan or would a second hand RB30 unit fit?
-
I did the clean yesterday, ever since my car idles normally without the AAC plugged in but jumps to 1800 once it is plugged in.
I tested it by running the car without the solenoid bolted to the valve housing and noticed that even though the car was warm the solenoid would extend fully as soon as I plugged it in, thereby allowing a shitload more air through.
Fuse? Computer? f**ked solenoid?
Garage Cleanout - R32 Parts - Adelaide
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
Computer sold pending payment.