NeMesiS-R34

Canister Purge Control Valve; Recently I noticed that my purge valve has been broken, it seems it has been super glued as an attempt to repair it! Either from the previous owner or a dodgy mechanic that I may have seen over the past couple of years. I've tried looking around for one outside of a Nissan Parts dealership with very little success. I've called countless import wreckers n such and they all seem to have no idea what I want, Retards! Boost Sensor; Since I've had the car my engine light has always been on, I was told by the previous owner that is was due to the boost sensor. Which is located right next to the boost sensor and was confirmed by a mechanic, however after going into Nissan they we suggesting that it maybe the boost sender located behind the left strut mount as my gauge drops in and out! I have read a post where they mention that the sensor feed the ECU and the sender feeds the gauge. But i won't know for sure until i get a diagnostic done to pin point the issue.... Nissan Parts Dealership; I went into Nissan to try and chase up what I need and they reckon that I need to get JDM parts for my import. Therefore I'll have to order in my parts from Japan and wait a few weeks for them to arrive! *Canister Purge Control Valve - Part No. 14930AA00A - $242.23 *Boost Sensor - Part No. 223656P51A - $169.37 *Boost Sender - Part No. 25085AA500 (i think) - $unknown Attachments; I've included a couple of pictures illustrating the location of. Boost Sender = Green Square Boost Sensor = Red Square Purge Valve = Yellow Square Q&A; Would I need to replace the boost Sensor or Sender? Do I need to replace with JDM parts? Where can I get a purge valve? Can I just bypass the purge valve?

@ CupCake: Yea RB30DET, gotta have a turbo just not sure on which one as yet, I'll worry about that later down the track. I'm currently concentrating on front suspension and brakes, will get around to the rear when i decide what diff and axle to use. Very true with the RB30e box, I suggested the RB25det box to my mechanic, He believes that the VG30dett box is as tuff. I did some research into this and found a page called "rb25 vs vg30" some people say that they have same internals. I'd prefer a vg30 box as they go for about half of the price of an rb25 box, I'm still looking into this anyways... @ W0rp3D: Maybe but the R31 ain't really my thing. I've seen a couple VL's on VicDrift videos but not a VK yet. Having both chassis at my disposal I have seen some major differences between the VL and VK. The VL is really cheaply made, from the chassis to basic parks. When I jack it up it flex's... The VK on the other hand is quiet solid, jacks up like a brick and parts are made to a better standard. I've read forums where people convert their IRS to live axle for drifting, VK already has this. ALSO it is my belief that I can get the VK to perform similar to a R34 as they share almost same wheelbase; VK = wheelbase: 2668mm front track: 1451mm rear track: 1416mm R34 = wheelbase: 2665mm front track: 1480mm rear track: 1490mm @ 88cameron88: Yea few mates been telling me to stick with power steering, will have to use a oil cooler and sock as any leaks will get me kicked from the track. VicDrift Scrutineering Guidlines THANKS for peoples feedback...

Firstly I'd like to make it clear that YES i am a fan of both Nissan & Holden! I usually prefer Classic or GT Coupes and Utes. My first car was a HG 253 GT Monaro coupe, I currently own & drive a R34 GTST Coupe and HX 350 GTS Ute. I've also had a couple VL Cailais and other first gen "compact" commodores. I picked up a nice straight VK 5.0ltr about 5 years ago and hadn't decided what to do with until recently. I should be doing most of the works on my own but I have been getting a bit of help from my local mechanic who builds VK's with RB30's for speedway racing. Below is what I have and am Intending to do! Proposed RB30 DOHC Conversion: * RB30E Block * RB25DE/T VCT Head * RB30 Bell Housing * VG30 5 Speed Manual * RB26 Water & Oil Pumps * RB30 Forged Pistons & Rods * RB30 Custom Light Weight Crank (via mechanic) * RB25 Top Mount Exhaust Manifold * Custom VL Tail Shaft to Suit (via mechanic) Removed from VL Donor Car: * RB30E and 5 Speed Manual * K Frame, Struts and Tail Shaft * Clutch & Brake Pedal Bracket * Hydraulic Clutch Cylinder * Fuel Tank and Fuel Pump * Brake Booster & Master Cylinder * Doors & Rear Bumper (Spares) * Engine Wiring Harness Removed from VK Project Car: * V8 5.0ltr & 400 Turbo Auto * K Frame, Struts & Tail Shaft * Brake Booster & Master Cylinder * Engine Wiring Harness * LPG Fuel System & Tow Pack * Interior, Rear Seats & Dashboard Currently Working On: * Half Role Cage - Mocked up in place, need to get new high tensile bolts. * Pedal Bracket - VL bracket in bad condition using pedals on VK bracket. Need to cut a hole in the pedal bracket and firewall to allow for clutch cylinder. * Engine Bay - Remove battery tray (on wrong side) and quick paint. * VL K Frame & Arms - Degrease, Paint and new Nolathane bushes. * Coilover Conversion - Koni custom made full adjustable (via my mechanic) * Strut Mount and Rod - Nolathane full adjustable replacements. I'm just trying to concentrate on preparing the engine bay and front suspension for the moment, as I am about to go to Europe for 3 months and will start the engine when I get back in September. And also concentrating on swapping what ever I have to from the donor car as I need to get rid of it before I go and empty out the trailer of rubbish that I've accumulated from stripping both cars. I'm still doing a bit of research into the running gear but probably won't know for sure what I'll do, until I do it. At most I would like to achieve around 500rwkw... Queries I Have: * I didnt take the VL live axle because it had drums and wasn't LSD anyways. I'm not sure If I should waste my time looking for a VL turbo or calias axle or just throw LSD diff in my VK V8 axle with disc's and get the custom tail shaft to suit? * Should I use VK Power Steering or VL Conventional Rack & Pinion? * Is it really necessary to change the fuel tanks & lines? Just interested in what people think and if they have any ideas or suggestions from experience. I'm getting a new camera in the next couple of days so I can start documenting my project. Thanks for everyone's time, Cheers!

Here's my R34 GT...

HELL YEA IS WORTH IT!!! I've had my R34 for 2 years now and I have to say I'm yet to get sick of it... I've always and still do have V8 holdens, a HX 350 (5.7ltr) and a VK 308 (5.0ltr)... After turning 25 I thought I'd spoil myself and get something different. I decided to limit myself around $20k as I can get carried away... It was destiny! After searching for just a couple of days on carpoint.com.au or carsales.com.au, I listing magically appeared! "R34 GT Skyline Coupe $16,500" This was too good to be true... Most people wanted $22k to $25k for something like that at that time... The best thing was, it was located just 15min up the road. Mind you I live in the country almost in the middle of no-where! Called up & checked her out... Just imported and complianced, still registered in Japan till 2012... Full service history, in Japanese of course. Compliance papers and road worthy certificate ready to go! New set of low profile tyres 225 front, 255 back 19inch deep dish rims... Amp with 2x 10inch Subs in the boot running off a 7inch LCD Pioneer Stereo with TV, GPS and Stacker! And just kept getting better! I didn't know stuff all about turbos but the R34 Skyline was my "realistic" dream car. But after seeing it for the first time, I knew it was mine... It looks so damn fat at the back with them big fat wheels, I almost creamed myself! By this point there's was no going back! Still we went for a quick boost up the freeway and back... I had no cash for deposit, lol... I told the guy I want, I don't care how!!! Lucky for me I got a loan through the bank, no worries... After taking 3 days to get a loan, I couldn't wait any longer... I drove over 200km to get a bank cheque on a Saturday and picked her up! I was Soooooo, damn excited and nervous at the same time. I almost couldn't get myself together to drive it home! I couldn't believe I was taking home a R34 Skyline!!! I feel sorry for 4 door owners as it just makes the car look wrong. I have to say if your going to get a Skyline get a coupe! Not only will it look better but it'll be cheaper to insure and register! Surprisingly for me the Skyline was the cheapest of all my cars. As for parts and maintenance... In the last 2 years I've spent a third of the amount on the Skyline compared to my HX Holden! So long as you take it easy and don't allow the turbo to wind up you can get really good economy. The other day I did around, 160 to 180km on a quarter of a tank, BUT in the last 30km a race broke out between 4 cars and I used another quarter in that distance. I only ever use BP Ultimate fuel & service every 5,000km with Motul Turbolight... Wash, Polish & Detail every Weekend if not more... More people look at my car than a HSV or $100k plus luxury Mercedes and it's a fraction of the price! It just has the X factor! These days I'll race anyone in anything, anywhere... Yesterday I was racing a CBR250 sitting on around 180km/p through corners. Didn't wanna push him too hard, he was still on he's L's... Most people wont even try me, often I pace myself with them... Rarely am I challenged or beaten... I'll smash a VE SS or WRX... But not too long ago I finally come across the White Maloo thats been getting around town. Conveniently we come to a red light side by side... I rev him up, Let Go! Lights turn green... Started off bout even till i got into 3rd and he just launched, I look I'm doing bout 160 and he just keeps going... He got such a lead, I wash crushed! But have to consider that the Maloo is worth about $75k and has over 300kw... The R34 Skyline was also ahead of it's time with traction control, stability management, ABS, air bags, cambered steering, all wheel steering, electronic LSD diff, independent rear suspension and more... Where today's Fords and Holdens are only starting to come out with these features as an optional extra! My R34 has tiptronic as serves me well and still smashes 99.9% of the chumps I come across, would only need a manual for more serious driving, depends what you would really prefer... I'd prefer manual so I could control the drift a bit better as I find the tiptronic takes to long to change gear, but I was getting a bargain. Anyways I think I've said enough for one night...

Hey MissR34, No need to stress, I had the very same problem when I just got my R34 GT couple years ago. The "Slip" light indicates that the traction control is kicking in, which will be restricting you. I'm assuming your Skyline has aftermarket wheels, likely larger lower profile rims. The traction control in the Skyline are rather sensitive & aftermarket wheels can effect it! I only really had problems when going up steep inclines... The best way to resolve this is to just turn the traction control OFF! Located down below the left side of the steering wheel. Another light indicator will show that traction control is disabled. I very rarely use traction control, don't really need it in a Skyline. But if you every get to happy on the peddle and get bit sideways... Either keep goin or take your foot off and it'll straighten back up! Also if your going to use gears, when in "Drive" push the gear stick left to engage manual shifting. This will make the gearbox feel more like a manual transmission just without a clutch peddle. I normally cruise in Drive but when I wanna go hard I use manual shifting... There's also a on/off button with a steering wheel on the center console above the gear stick. When engaged this will allow you to change gears on the steering wheel... These buttons ain't the most practical feature but are pretty cool... Anyways hope this helps...