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Dreadnought

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Posts posted by Dreadnought

    V35 Is Dead, No Lights, Locks, Alarm, No Anything...

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    Ok, some progress, with many thanks to Deep, Max and Vi! A fuseable link was blown, and a dead alarm transponder, all of which I am replacing now. Loose cabling and degraded casing looks to have shorted or arced, fusing the link (could this have fried the transponder too or was that just bad timing?)

    Hopefully that should get it back up and running... I did reconnect the battery and get dash lights, window etc working, but the engine is still immobilized currently.

    Again, thanks for the assistance all, really appreciate it.

    V35 Is Dead, No Lights, Locks, Alarm, No Anything...

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    If your battery is measuring in OK (no less than 12V without load and no less than 10V when attempting to crank the vehicle), that still doesn't explain why you don't have any dash lights. Have you checked all relevant fuses? If they're all ok, my next suggestion would be to check the Viper alarm itself. Are you using an Xpresskit DBALL? If so, try disconnecting it, if it's easily accessible in case it's upsetting something on the CAN bus.

    Thanks Max, battery is within the ranges you've noted (except the starter wont turn over at all), and I agree the fuses and alarm are the next suspects. I did have a good look in the fuse box, couldn't see anything out of the ordinary, but will look again. I'll look to add information on the viper alarm too, in case that assists with diagnosis.

    i'd be checking for a fuseable link on the main + cable near the battery. on other cars they are contained within a black plastic shielded part on the main power cable directly after the battery clamp.

    not sure about the v35 tho. it is either within the red battery clamp shield.... or i think it is within the fuse box behind the battery. it'll possibly be a big fuse, square, maybe pink or white with clear top. may even be bolted in.

    you can check all this if you have the right tools (which I'm guessing you wont) or just do a visual inspection of all big fuses (which is not easy in that location)

    +1 mate, really useful info in all your responses and appreciate the time you took to detail the systems and loads. I will look at each section of your suggestions closely tonight and report back. I have some tools/access to others, but almost no expertise with the V35 and its electrical systems in general unfortunately, beyond the basics and common sense, as I'm sure you can tell :) If you're talking motorbikes though, that's another story!

    Now that you have admitted to jump starting i would agree with deep dish..... Sounds to me like you perhaps connected the jumpstarter backwards briefly which would blow the main fuseable link. This is one of the most common mistakes i see when called out to a car yard or dealer... eventually i get the mechanic or car sales person to admit that they tried jump starting and they remember doing it wrong or a large spark when connecting it.

    I still think you got a flat battery and tried to jump start it which has blown a link and that i why the window is down and you have no lights.

    20 days is a long time for a modern car to be left without a decent run or a trickle charger, and you have a viper alarm which cause more current draw than most alarms. Also starting a vehicle and letting it run for 5-10 minutes will actually drain the battery more than just letting it stand, because the cranking of the engine drains the battery far more than the alternator can charge it within a short period.

    Vi, appreciate the response. You did suggest jump starting it in your initial post, and I never claimed I didn't, so I'm sure you meant to say something like "informed" rather than "admitted". Unfortunately, I definitely didn't screw up negative / positive on the jump either, which would have made for easier, if somewhat more embarrassing trouble shooting. It was started mid-way through the 20 days and driven, not just idle'd to warm. I have queried the test pilot (my father) extensively and cant seem to fault him on this either.

    The battery still seems to show charge even now too, albeit unable to be tested under starter motor load. Am I right in assuming the car should have turned over while jump starting, unless fuses had blown or fused a link or something? I didn't even tick over once... and I still had no dash, interior or alarm lights, and was still receiving no response from the alarm transponder...

    I think the general consensus is right though, fuses, fused links and alarm/transponder are the next things I'll look at.

    Thanks all for the help so far, hope to solve this shortly and report back. If not I'll have to call out a professional with I guess. Welcome any additional ideas/suggestions too

    V35 Is Dead, No Lights, Locks, Alarm, No Anything...

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    How did you check your car battery??? Try jump starting it because if you dont have a battery load tester or a hydrometer, you have not tested the car battery.

    Hey Vi, thanks for the swift response, I tried both jump starting and disconnected the battery and checked it with a multi meter.

    also, why is the drivers window down at all? This would mean that the door was left open until battery drained, then the door was closed after that. Otherwise the windows would be closed as per normal.

    Its is only down as far as is needed to break the seal to open the door. I dont think that indicates the door was open until the battery drained, and the window motor was replaced in May

    V35 Is Dead, No Lights, Locks, Alarm, No Anything...

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    Hey SAU,

    Any help appreciated... I'm not sure what the problem is, nor how best to solve it.

    I'm just back from a few weeks of leave, left the car in the garage for 20 days. Got my folks to start it once, with detailed instructions, and was all ok from their feedback.

    Yesterday and, as usual, tried to unlock using the viper alarm fob and got nothing. Unlocked the door manually and tried to start it, still nothing.

    - no response from the transponder on the alarm fob

    - no lights on the dash or on the alarm LED

    - drivers window is slightly down as per normal opening, and mirrors are still tucked in

    I quickly checked the forum and have replaced both the Nissan key battery and alarm battery, then checked the car battery as well, all seem fine.

    Does anyone know what this issue is, or recommend someone who does house calls in Melbourne?

    Cheers - Andrew

    (2003 V35 coupe manual nismo/anniversary edition)

    Fresh Headlights !?!?

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    Agree with Night, this is the most asked topic of late, heaps of info in recent threads. Not jumping on you, but everything is covered more extensively there, and keeping the V board relevant is pretty important.

    http://www.ebay.com....#ht_4610wt_1396

    Try that.... not 100% sure that its for RHD but it does say JDM....

    and G35... so I'm guessing not RHD (JDM is an overused search term now) Import monster and Yahoo Auctions Japan are the best places to search out the options. I haven't seen the twin side by side projectors in RHD, all others are available in both colors (Silver or Black surround)

    Eoi Spc Camber Kits Group Buy

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    I may be keen on the rears, how much - adjustment can they do... my current are maxed out at 5.5deg.

    I think they only run 5 Degrees, which are you running now?

    Might be a silly question, but can the rears be used for camber or toe, like an universal arm or are they all different parts? The way the site is set out, implies its an universal arm with all the description under one heading.

    I really want the SPL Pro products, but I need to separate what I want from what I need, spending too much already... :(

    SPL group buy? I need fronts to fit the new square 11s, haven't seen the rears, but if they have similar adjustment ranges to SPC then I'm sold....

    Need Help To Register An Import Modified V35 Coupe

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    I was able to successfully negotiate through this nightmare with the RWC on a bike I imported (Im no import expert though)

    I had access to a stock exhaust and the other required parts, and convinced the mechanic doing the RW it wasn't worth their time to spend a day swapping the parts around and then back. They did check each and every part for fit and damage, and I did swing them some cash for it, but I didn't actually have to remove anything.

    Good luck

    Camber Kit Options?

    in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti

    Posted

    Yeah they are the best for sure Big... NASA parts. Easy way to drop $1k on camber though... for front and rears.

    Only reasons holding me back on SPL is the available camber range (they seemed lower than others, more for track correction I think) and the geometry (cant confirm if they knock when lowered this much, I'm flat on the lower rings all around)

    SPC fronts are similar in design to the others (not SPL), but have poly bushings (not rubber) and put less stress directly on the weld seams (+1 internetz) Maybe I'll do the brake upgrade before I tackle camber. OEM Brembos for sale soon :)

    CZP site is perfect, thanks for that one!

    Big, change your photo man, gimme some new headlight action!

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