AaronGTR32

pm'ed u shazza

pm'ed u shazza

Hey guys i really cbf siffoning through all this to find my answer, i found you can buy the r34 badge in the middle of the rocket cover, is it a quick swop to my r32 gtr rocket cover? cheers!

Ah really, thanks ill probably order the t3 1.06 divided off ATP then as i just discovered the mark up price on these housings is huge in australia. Its a bit late to send my manifold up to kyle to get it changed to t4, maybe one day when i upgrade to a bigger turbo. (hopefully it can be done without dramas). the gtx35 ure running it on rb26? how is it? sound good? what boost u running it at? when does full boost kick it? you happy u chose that turbo? thanks heaps for the info mate.

ah right, haha that is a bit of mucking around, glad to hear it worked out for u in the end tho. i sent them a message about it, if not ill just go a t3 1.06 open housing.

yeah true, bit late now tho cause my build is in progress Ah really wish i new that before hand lol.

ah thats good to no, atleast i can trust to buy off them, How long till u got the part? Thats weird cause on the caption for the housing it says "GT35R 1.06 A/R T3 divided (twin-scroll) turbine housing. Garrett casting, 3" V-band outlet." So it isnt made by garrett? So there was no problem fitting it to the turbo, just to the manifold? why is that i thought its just 4 bolts? Thanks heaps aye

ah ok thanks heaps for the advice man, im gunna check out that t3 split pulse 1.06 housing on that website black br32 sugggested (from america). if its no good ill just get the open 1.06. thanks

Yeah thanks for that mate, i did see that but because its from america and ive had bad experiences buying shit from over sea's and not fitting etc. On the other hand australia gets our turbo's from america aye? so it would work?

Thanks nismoid. I kinda understand now. so is there is a difference in size between the split pulse .82 and open .82? i thought it was ratio and it would be the same dispite the divider in the middle. Does that mean my manifold is not good? should i bother getting the t4? or its fine just switch it to a 1.06 open housing? I really wish i went the t4 flange, kyle from 6boost suggested that the t4 is probably too big and stick with the t3 .82 housing. Im not blaming him. just wished i did my research before hand. :( :( god dayummmmmmm

Hey guys, im currently in the middle of building my r32 gtr, its getting all the supporting mods like bigger fmic, injectors, computor, pump, sump, etc.. only difference was i chose to run a single turbo with a 6boost manifold, split pulsed, t3 flange with a gtx3582r with a split pulsed .82 housing. Now my builders and tuner strongly recommended me to go bigger with the exhaust housing go to a 1.06. Although there are no split pulsed 1.06 for gtx35 in t3 flange. i guess i should mention the engine is getting rebuilt with, tomei type b cams, forged pistons, forged rods and bearings. they said there is vertualy not much difference in turbo lag between the .82 and 1.06 with the rb26 hence the suggestion of changing. Is my turbo really gunna run out of breath with the .82 housing on a non stroked engine? Should i change my housing the a 1.06 open t3 and will manifold work fine still with that setup? been 2x 40mm waste gates too cause of the split pusle setup. Or should i keep my .82 split pulse setup? I just wanna do it right the first time, thanks guy for any input.

I might add i find it strange that someone would install this switch and have this problem so the switch might be fine its something else, eg. an AWD problem, like the relay in the boot is broken or the awd pump thing needs regassing which i read someone about a similar problem. any ideas?

Hey guys, anyhelp with this problem would be fantastic or even a reccomended auto electrician that comes to you to help trouble shoot. I have an r32 gtr for about a year and half now and it came with a RWD switch that they actualy used the headlights button on the top right hand side of the dash. I assumed they used this button as u can already turn ure headlights on the normal way buy turning the right can knob. So virtualy used it as it was a spare button. Although with the switch left in AWD mode i can hear the relay in the boot click every 10 seconds or so, (even when the car is on), until the battery is dead. I did find out that if i hit the switch to RWD mode then switch the car off, the relay doesnt click at all, and the battery is fine. Now when i got my alarm installed, the guy, i told him the problem and he has a quick look and saw my AWD fuse blown under the dash and when replaced with a new one the button didnt work at all!, and was left in RWD mode which i dont want. I just want it left in AWD mode and the draining of the battery to stop. As waking up at 2 in the morning cause the alarm going off about low battery is absolute shitting me up the wall because i forgot to turn the car off in RWD mode. I might take some pictures to help explain my situation if needed. I might add there is a little white after market switch in the fuse box that replaced the AWD fuse under the bonnet. Cheers guys.

Is it bad or any hassle to fit my diff up to this sump? ive been told that some diffs are "shimmed up" to each car differently? I guess i have no choice now to try fit it all up anyways. ok thanks, ill keep that in mind ah right haha didnt no that, thanks

haha ah really. well i bought it from crd anyways. But they probaly make them exactly the same these days. Looks really good tho. I looked up performance metalcraft sump and saw they look very similar and quility work. Thanks for the information about the goo and cleaning. That helps alot! I might try cleaning it up this weekend. Ill keep in mind about the grey sealer over the red one, Thanks for the heads up!