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Deep Dish V35

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Posts posted by Deep Dish V35

  1. Ps.. there are mechanics out there with consult tools that will give you an explanation. I know a guy in adelaide who has a consult tool that will read all the diagnostics but still couldnt help me with a transmission fault code. Then i found a mobile auto electrician that had a consult tool which gave me a detailed explanation of all faults. Then i visited a transmission specialist that had even better knowledge.

    Unfortunately you will have to visit various workshops until one of them has a tool that works with your car. And it will prob cost $60 per visit if theyre mobile mechanics

  2. Its all underground now.

    The car scene in adelaide was real good in the 90s because you HAD to go out to catch up with everyone. As mentioned earlier, every friday and saturday night you couldnt get near town without seeing swarms of modified cars. West terrace hungry jacks/freedom.... anzac highway hungry jacks/pizza hut.... anzac/south rd BP... kmart.... the old carpark at magic mountain and the one at the end of anzac hwy where the glenelg marina now sits...

    We used to get blocked into that carpark by cops while they proceeded to defect every car in there... and yet we all came out again the next week.

    Oh the camcorder videos i have from those days....

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  3. Blocking the EGR (by unbolting it and making steel blanking plates for each opening) made a big difference. My plenum is still clean 15000km later. Now all the mess comes from the crankcase breather pipe that joins to the front of the plenum. Its blowing oil directly into the front two cylinder ports, which causes a bit of smoke on startup.

    Have been running this long with the engine light on. Makes no difference. Im a bit hesitant to solder in a resistor incase i get it wrong and cause a bigger problem

  4. With the Curt assembly, the sedan design is different to the coupe. Sedan one hangs under the reinforcement bar and has a long brace bar that goes under the car most of the way back to the diff (the mounting holes can be seen if you take out the spare tyre). But still, none of this bolts to anything that is chassis related so the strength is minimal.

    The reinforcment bar is mounted to the rear panel with 8x M6 captive bolts with 10mm heads to a double layer skin on the car. Its not plated so it will most likely get stress cracks or just pull thru under load of a 6x4 trailer. The bolts are not high tensile either.

    Bikes on a rack will be fine, lots of extra steel will need to be welded in if you want to tow a load.

  5. If anyones interested, im picking up a VQ35 engine in the next couple weeks.

    Its a 2003 year model @ 120,000km. It runs but has a suspected spun bearing.

    Parts already gone are: headers, alternator, ac pump, flywheel and clutch

    All remaining parts will be for sale. (Throttle body, plenum, heads, coils, injectors and rails, loom, rods, crank, etc etc....) or the whole thing

    Block would make a good coffee table under a glass top ;)

  6. I have a Curt assembly on my sedan, the US sedan bumper bar is different to the JDM version and as a result the Curt assemble requires ALOT of custom work to make fit. I made an all new reinforcement bar in place of the flimsy factory one. The Curt assembly still needed cutting down to let the bumper fit back on. And yes the hitch needed modding too as mentioned earlier.

    But it all works and is now being used to tow a 16 foot catamaran.

    Wouldnt tow anything heavier than that without getting the rear steel panel of the car plated or you'll end up ripping the reinforcent bar thru the bumper

  7. i cant say whether the spacer itself made any difference, as I did a list of other things at the same time.

    The combination of plenum spacer, plenum and runner clean, EGR valve blocked off, cooling system mod..... all reduced fuel consumption by 1.5 to 2 litres per 100km, but acceleration doesnt really feel much different. Im used to driving supercharged cars so of course its going to feel slow regardless...

  8. If it's direct injection, cleaning the intake properly (off the car), blanking the EGR valve and flushing the engine would be a good starting point.

    Look to get rid of the intake swirl valves, these block off half the intake ports to promote swirl in the chamber at lower revs. I think good gains can be had here at the expense of a little cruise economy.

    i was looking at these valves when i did the plenum clean..... was considering a manually selectable bypass of the actuator valve...

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