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Deep Dish V35

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Posts posted by Deep Dish V35

  1. knew it wouldnt be right first time hahaha..... but even as is, its better than i was expecting. the arc in the D2R is sitting about 2mm rearward compared to the H1 filament. i didnt want to shave the mounting face of the assembly just yet...

    if only they made a H1 HID bulb with the same loom fitting as a D2R...

    a universal assembly like yours is obviously the smarter option...

  2. heres something that will dampen your motivation then.....

    testing the light in a garage over 7 metres is one thing.... testing it in the street is something different.

    it turns out that my custom light beam only travels forwards about 8 metres before fading out real quickly. thats less than 1/4 the distance of the oem assembly. and yet directly infront of the car the light is awesome. You can see in my previous post , on the roller door, a darker spot in the centre of the new beam just below the cutoff. well that spot gets much worse.... i did notice it earlier today and thought "uh oh"

    so yes, ive either got a slight alignment issue with the bulb (guessing by about 2mm, entirely possible)..... or its the D2R bulb itself.

    research has just told me that the D2R bulb actually has a built-in deflector designed to stop glare when installed in your everyday reflector type headlight like the OEM assembly. this deflector appears to block the area of light that would project directly forwards in a parabolic assembly..... switching the bulb with a D2S should fix this - the D2S is a 99% identical bulb just without that built-in deflector.

    so now... i just have to buy a pair and try it.

  3. i wish i knew about that block plate mod before i did the plenum spacer... wouldve been the perfect time to do it. my car has always run at 2/3 temp and this mod is the only other thing i can think of doing.

    even with the lisle funnel fitted , i had to rev the engine to pump the coolant and bubbles out, turn the engine off to let it settle and burp itself, then go again. and after all that, i can still hear the hidden waterfall

  4. it can be done without removing the head... but its risky. all the cams and lifters still need to come off either way...

    in this method its possible to make an adapter to fit the spark plug hole. connect it to an air compressor, pressurise the cylinder when the piston is at TDC. the air pressure keeps the valve closed. removing the valve cap retainers is a bit more difficult as you cant use a regular clamp to compress the springs.

    its a bit backyard but can be done

    the advantage of having the head removed - a good time to get it ported and polished or even have the valve sizes increased...

  5. And heres the difference between factory HID and my setup.

    Keep in mind, these are both using the factory loom, ballast, and Phillips D2R bulb. The only difference comes down to the reflector in the factory headlamp Vs the parabolic lense assembly in my custom light (aka projector beam)

    This is the passenger side OEM HID

    1CA23161-8D69-4404-81B3-4A122D92AE3E-2324-00000441130A3730.jpg

    this is the drivers side parabolic

    7B798782-611D-4D3B-9CDB-777262149C96-2324-000004419A34043A.jpg

    and both side by side... you can see how much brighter the road would be infront of the drivers side, the clean cut line, and the blue/yellow light refraction on the top edge.

    96F9257A-2F2B-4255-AC2E-8DF023899A67-2324-00000441AE3EA01F.jpg

    I love parabolic lights. Modified the ones in my old BMW years ago... and built my own set for my scooter years ago too..

  6. id guess its fuel or air related - something to do with the fuel pump or your intake.

    just some ideas:

    that stalling sounds very similar to when the fuel pump has no power, it doesnt pressurise the injection manifold, the manifold has enough fuel in there to start and run for a while then eventually dies. but then you shouldnt be able to restart the car afterwards.... which would indicate a possible faulty pump. (or no fuel in the tank)

    Or if your MAF sensor plug was disconnected, similar result...

    or an inlet leak of some kind could do that.

  7. edit* oh moorehouse road.... no reason to be there at night unless up to no good. but still.... media exaggeration of the truth prevails.

    yeah that general area is bad for it. I recently went for a drive out to outer harbour, took a scenic detour on the way back.... well this detour is the fresh road that links up to the submarine corp - no buildings, covered in burnouts - a street light already flattened by someone who lost control and a memorial further down to some girl who died..

    cant see how either of those things could happen there.... but obviously it does.

    oh and pelican point is nothing like i remember it. used to be completely empty except for the fishermen, trailbike riders, and the smouldering wrecks of dumped stolen cars. but that was 15 years ago...

  8. success.... finally

    using a rotary burr I was able to hollow out the H1 base leaving just enough material so that a H1 could still be used if necessary, and so a D2R bulb could be inserted instead..

    B8E5520D-911C-4B27-A71D-0DFFC2381A84-2065-000003E0E4ED9BD4.jpg

    The D2R bulb and socket sticks out a long way... the bulb is now locked in by 2 screws instead of a spring clip. so yes, replacing a blown bulb is going to be a harder task.

    4BE159BA-CE96-473C-95BC-8F6D7BEB444D-2065-000003E170E06C45.jpg

    ABF9F3C4-CAAF-4709-93B1-0193C75BBC73-2065-000003E0FB8A864E.jpg

    5B40E89A-A286-432D-8299-2A8D1BA8002C-2065-000003E0C6A02AEE.jpg

    1FF7A6C7-079B-46A8-A16B-F8EC368FD3FA-2065-000003DF740DB4D6.jpg

    i can already see an improvement in light output with daylight filling the garage. when standing an object infront of the car, the cast shadows are much sharper from the new headlight. The beam cutoff line is much cleaner, and there is a fine blue/yellow edge on that cutoff. I'll upload a night pic tonight before my mad rush to reassemble the car.

    F27B946D-17FA-4475-B9CE-2FD5E3A9FD4C-2065-000003DF82B9E019.jpg

    9FDD9A63-D55F-484E-901B-4C42D19F9336-2065-000003DF63E85848.jpg

  9. hack saw blade in a knife style handle ended up being alot quicker for the main cuts, then dremel the fine details

    unless your dremel comes with a mini circular saw style blade, thatd work better. i only had angle grinder style blades

    4 hours of fiddling with this D2R globe fitment and It just doesnt want to happen. if i downgraded to halogen globes it'd all be finished now hahahah

  10. Sorry just remembered that i had ditched the NA Fairlaine assemblies.

    Im actually using Mazda 929/Eunos 300M parabolic assemblies. theyre quite a deep assembly so fitment is a bit tight.

    The NA Fairlane lights were junk. the parabolic lense was not attatched to the reflector. the whole thing looked to be a last minute add-on to the ford to mimic real parabolic lenses.

    As for shrouds.... im undecided. Dont really want chrome in there and I kinda like the industrial look of having it all on show..

    Dremel is good for final touches, but cant handle doing the cutting. Ive already destroyed a flex shaft...

  11. the current project...... not easy at all building these from spare parts

    3E44D4C2-51D7-4451-8694-205B43359163-1400-000002681B12CDDD.jpg

    im using the $150 ebay black housings (yes, LHD) that suit H1 low beam.

    Baked in the oven and seperated.

    Have cut out the H1 low beam fitting and in its place I have inserted a parabolic assembly from an NA Ford Fairlane (edit - theyre actually from a Mazda 929/Eunos 300M). This means that the original reflector is no longer used, it now gives me a RHD cutoff beam as per Australian Standards.

    The parabolic assembly is being modified so it will take the D2R HID bulb from the V35s original headlight.

    Fog and high beam will still come from the bottom H4 halogen and lense which is a flat beam and doesnt need modifying, but i'll probably install another parabolic lense later on

    D70BA2A2-274D-474B-B701-E8D44742EA61-1400-00000267F9FA99FB.jpg

    EB5AF069-397F-4A2B-8AF5-3AA0EC82BC80-1400-000002680ABF3294.jpg

    The whole kit will cost me about $400 plus a few days work getting these things built. its proving to be difficult to get right.... theres a LOT of cutting and drilling to do, and it cant be un-done

  12. of course Nissan will win... even if a race is red flagged early.... (just getting the joke in before any ford lovers do)

    it would be fitting if the fords and holdens all had red and blue lights on the roof to mimic reality.... cops chasing nissans

    Was funny, i heard today "...with the return of nissan, the "bad boys" of v8 supercars...."

    you almost get the feeling that mercedes doesnt belong there....

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