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trickytiger

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  • Car(s)
    1996 Nissan Skyline GTS25
  • Real Name
    Nigel

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  1. Does the light on the demister button illuminate? if not it could of maybe gone bad, otherwise check connections on it 1st
  2. UPDATE: It works now if my doors are locked, it unlocks them at 25kph and I also get to keep the rear demister. Now to do it to the rear doors as well
  3. Have just thought of another way this may be possible. Reverse the lock and unlock wires at each solonoid, this way hopefully when you hit 25Kph the car would be checking to make sure the doors are unlocked and if not unlock them. Will just go out to the car and test this.
  4. Unfortunately this idea has proven not to be a solution. there is only two wires that control the unlock and lock functions, you can cut both the other two and it will still lock and unlock... so i wonder what the other two wires are there for?
  5. That sounds hopeful will test with the passenger door after work to find out if this idea will work
  6. nah it's only a locking feature, have to manually unlock or flick the unlock switch on the drivers door for them to unlock. Does your rear demister work?
  7. yes the actual knob flicks over on all passenger doors also, lots of other people with r33's have this feature and there is old posts on this forum about it.
  8. It's a feature on these skylines that when you go over 25kph your doors automatically lock which is kinda annoying. I'm trying to find a solution other than the one that's already known which is cutting a green wire at the smart entrance module, which also disables the rear demister...
  9. Hi, I've been thinking a bit about the automatic door lock at 25kph on the r33's There is 4 wires at each door solonoid, so is it possible that one of these wires could send the 25kph lock signal to the solonoid? if it does it means at each solonoid we can just cut a wire to disable the feature on each door so that we can also keep the rear demister. Maybe someone here knows what each of these 4 wires are. I know from when i put an actuator in the drivers door that there appears to be no unlock wire going to them.
  10. yes remote entry is the dealer fitted one and the drivers door definitely has the factory actuator installed (4-wires go to it, i tested these with a multimeter while locking and unlocking other doors, one has constant 10V on it, the rest showed nothing)
  11. just took door panel off and there is no control box in the drivers door... is there anywhere else that could control the drivers door central locking?
  12. will be doing this soon can't learn things if you don't do them yourself... also do you know a way of disabling the automatic locking over 25km/hr without also disabling the defroster?
  13. ok thanks, i'll take the door panel off and have a look to see if there's a unit there
  14. ok factory central locking is working again and alarm also unlocking and locking doors pulled the smart entrance module apart and found i'd burnt a hole in the circuit board lol that's why you double check the polarity of the locking systems first... just soldered a bridge across it to fix it. Just one other thing now, the drivers door doesn't lock or unlock like it used to with the central locking so guess I blew the motor in that door will have to look to see if it's cheaper to replace the motor or get a 2-wire actuator for that door.
  15. yes it is dealer fitted keyless entry. I already know the lock and unlock wires on the SE unit from the multimeter test, for some reason the central locking all stopped working after tapping into these wires... At this stage i'm seriously thinking about installing an aftermarket central locking system to interface with the alarm (done this on last car that had a completely different central locking problem).
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