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I do not have a stock BoV. I am thinking about putting my HKS BoV on the Hotpipe and recirculating it back into the turbo inlet AFTER the MAF. Can someone explain how adding a port on my turbo inlet to recirculate my BoV would help reduce/remove the reversion i am getting? I'm not understanding. Also, with NIStune running an RB25 I am using a z32 ECU and the z32 ECU's have a "cut fuel" when throttle is closed. Would this stop reversion? Thanks.

I just read a whole article about reversion and looks like you guys are spot on. It said that moving the MAF further away from the turbo would greatly reduce reversion. My new 3" pipe is actually further away from the turbo than the stock accordion pipe, but i guess the ridges in the stock pipe help reduce this. It also said, that people get reversion from plumbing the BoV in the wrong way as it should plumb in a way that the air being recirculated is flowing towards the turbo. Would putting a better screen on my MAF help this problem? My screen is pretty ripped/torn. I do not have the funds for a stand alone ECU. I will be tuning with NIStune.

OK now there is an explanation i can understand. Thank you for that. I am not running a stock BoV. Currently, and for 2 years i have been running an atmospheric HKS BoV without it being recirculated and have never had this problem, i guess due to the accordion shaped pipe cutting out most of the "reversion". I'm pretty sure a recirculated BoV system is out of the question for me as my BoV is REALLY far away from the turbo inlet pipe. It's currently by the battery tray on the Cold pipe. That would mean running a 3-4' hose across my engine bay. Would it be best to put the BoV on the hotpipe and run a short tube from the BoV to Turbo inlet? I've heard it was best to have it closest to the TB......

Thank you for your response. My BoV has NEVER been recirculated even with the stock inlet pipe so i know it has nothing to do with the BoV being recirculated; i don't even hit speeds/rpms for the boV to open up. Did you bother to read the entire post? I did state that i put back on the stock inlet pipe today as a test and could NOT get the engine to stall, but as soon as i put the new 3" pipe back on, i could make it stall on command. So, I'm still unsure as to how a "smoother" pipe would cause this to stall? Can you elaborate? It just doesn't make sense to me how it could do this. I was almost certain the ridges were just there so the pipe was able to bend. Would a tune fix this problem as i am able to change variables and things in NIStune?

*** ATTENTION: This is NOT due to my BoV being vented to atmosphere. As i have ran my BoV vented for 2 years straight without this issue. This is an RB25 Series 1. Hi All, I'm experiencing a problem on my series 1 RB25 that is related to the turbo inlet pipe. I was currently running the stock accordion looking pipe, however i was not running any breathers to the inlet so the ports were blocked off with a MILK carton cap and a screw LOLOL, i know......Anyways, since my tune date is this saturday, i decided last week to "fix" the problem and purchase myself a 3" Aluminum pipe with a 45* bend so i would no longer be using that janky setup. I'm running stock turbo, stock injectors, stock MAF, greddy IM. Anyhow, now when using the 3" aluminum pipe, my engine likes to stall when slowing down or coming to a stop. It doesn't happen every time, more so like 1 out of 20 times i come to a rolling stop. Now, why is this happening? Could it be that the turbo is just not sucking in hard enough and getting all the air that was just metered from the MAF? Is there a way to fix this problem? I tested this out by putting back the stock inlet and could NOT make the engine stall, then drove back home, slapped the new 3" on and could make it stall on command. Thank You. STOCK ACCORDION NEW 3" TURBO INLET

Hello, I am currently in the market for a NIStune type 2 daughter board. I'm from California (92831) I can be reached faster via TEXT @ (714) 457-6132 Thank You.

Username: AS240 on zilvia.net forums claims he's running stock ECU and safc2 and has his AFRs pulled to 16-16.4 while cruising. I have PMd him to try and see how he is doing this. http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/493277-rb25-whats-your-mpg.html

Thanks so much for the reply I truly appreciate it! It makes sense that the stock 02 sensor will always try and get it closest to 14.7. Damn this is a big let down as I mainly went this route to be able to tune partial throttle to run more lean at cruising. I did extensive research but I guess it wasn't enough to fully understand how the factory narrowband would come into play. I'm truly not sure how to go about tricking the ECU as you said. That seems a bit scary to me. I could have sworn the tuner was able to get my idle around 16 or so but said it wasn't safe so left it at 14.7 give or take.

Just curious to know what a safe good AFR reading would be while NOT under load just cruising around the city/freeway. I got my RB25 tuned today (street tune) and would like to know if I'm able to run anymore lean than what it is as I'm going for maximum gas mileage with still being SAFE. Mind you I barely use about 10% throttle when driving anywhere and hardly never step on it. SETUP: S1 RB25, Greddy IM, FMIC, Boost @ 10psi, Aeromotive FPR, Z32 Fuel filter, 3" From turbo back, walbro fuel pump, HKS bov atmospheric, AFC-neo My AFR's while cruising are about 14.7-15.2. I was just curious if I could go leaner. I mainly went so I can get a low throttle tune as I mostly do city driving and barely use like 10-15% throttle all the time. For some reason a 0% low throttle to me looks odd as of we weren't tuning for normal cruising. Most of the time I was just flooring it (WOT). AGAIN, I went in for a tune STRICTLY for better gas mileage. Someone with SAFC knowledge please chime in. My settings LOW THR - 0% HI THR - 45% NePoints (HI / LOW) 500 (-2 / +15) 950 (-2 / +15) 1500 (-2 / +15) 2000 (-2 / +5) 2500 (-2 / +2) 3000 (-2 / +0) 3500 (-2 / -2) 4000 (+2 / -2) 4500 (+2 / -2) 5000 (+2 / +0) 5500 (+1 / +0) 6000 (-3 / +0) 6500 (-3 / +0) 7000 (-3 / +0) 7500 (+0 / +0) 8000 (+0 / +0) Thanks for the help!