Brett_J
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Posts posted by Brett_J
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We we're putting 350hp at the rears through ours.
Hi flowed R34 turbo from Hypergear - $1200 for them supplying one and sent over
Full 3" exhaust - I got a good 2nd hand Kakitmoto 3'5" front pipe back setup for $200, plus $200 for a dump/front pipe.
Z32 AFM - $150
Nistuned ECU - $950 fitted and tuned, or buy mine for $350 and get it tuned for your mods
FMIC - $300
750cc Injectors - $500 from Injector dynamics on Ebay
Fuel pump - $120 for Walbro
That's $3620.00
Like I said, we had 350 at the rears, thats was running 16 psi, we could have gone to 20 ish which would have been around 370hp or so at the rears, so close to 300kw, this was more than ample, and for you, plenty enough to kill yourself from lack of experience
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It's handy for the pits, also if you get the right cop, but at any time a cop wants, he can sticker you regardless, all he has to do is suspect it's not legal or the mods have changed since engineering permits.
I never bother with any of my cars, But then again, never had a sticker as I never act like a cockhead on the road, and am more than polite to the cops. -
Selling my Nistuned ECU to suit a 34 GTT, was on an auto car, but apparently that's not an issue when tuning them.
Was tuned with -
Hi Flow Turbo
Z32 AFM
3-3.5" exhaust
Front Mount Intercooler
750cc Injectors
Just take your car up to Sean at All Star Garage or Tom at PZP and get them to tune it to your needs, shouldn't take more than 2 hours at best.All our tunes were only an hour and a half.
$350 and she's all yours
040011985eight -
After our 34 being hit by an old lady exactly 6 weeks ago, the cheque finally got transferred into our account today, Just Car are so shit to deal with, we had to call them constantly to get updates, the most help we got was from the Admin girl at the Smash Repairers, won't be using them again, going to Shannons for sure, having a pile of friends working there will help any future claims if I need to!
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Cheers fella's, exactly what I wanted to hear, this has a 25 in it already and a few decent mods, has a rwd switch, so will be using that majority of the time if we get it.
Won't be abusing it, but if my mates can baby their GTR boxes with 500+hp and still have fun, then I'm sure I can manage with 400 -
Ok guys, just wanting some proper clarification, not what you "think" is true, or what your brothers mates cousin friend told you he heard once.
Is the 32 GTS4 box the same strength wise as the 32 GTR box?
I know they have different ratio's, but have read conflicting info regarding strength, some say weak, some say same internals as GTR box or 25det manual box.
I just want clarification before looking at one as a potential new car.
Cheers
Brett -
As stated, I need the left rear pod that comes on some 34 sedans rear bumper, will buy a pair if I really have to, happy to pay for express postage to get to Perth and whatnot.
Like this in the pic, but left side, yes it has a standard rust, soon to be resprayed -
As stated, I need the left rear pod that comes on some 34 sedans rear bumper, will buy a pair if I really have to, happy to pay for express postage to get to Perth and whatnot.
Like this in the pic, but left side, yes it has a standard rust, soon to be resprayed -
All sorted
Pre load was never sorted at install as I expected it was already set up, now I have to get it retuned as it's hitting 20psi when it was tuned to 16, lol.
Which means it was bypassing boost before it got a chance to build it, still laggy but not as bad, but now leaves lines at 1-2 change with half throttle-
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That is the wastegate lever extender piece. They all been tiged by a well know member here, I haven't seen any with this issues but I guess shit happens and I will rise the concern.
It won't damage the turbocharger or the engine, If you like to send me the adaptor piece I will have it repaired for you under warranty.
If you decide to have it welded your self, make sure preload the actuator rod after welding. That will makes a big difference in response.
Like you said Shit happens, I used to be a welder years ago, and occasionally you'll forget to weld something fully after tacking it up, no biggie, just thought I'd show you.
I'll sort it myself tomorrow, and will sort the pre load too.
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I'm well aware that it's a minor problem, been in the game a long time/owned my own workshop and such, it's just an annoyance, It's an auto an laggy as f**k at the best of times, with the wastegate flapping about it has 0 boost and is like driving in 5th gear from idle, so unless I go hire a welder and fix it myself, I'll get it towed as I get free tows and nothing is in the immediate vicinty.
Not having a go at Stao's work, just bringing it up so maybe look at giving the others a proper weld, that's all.
Could really be an excuse to weld up the gate and go external -
Was that the factory rear housing or one Stao made?
The pin that arm welds to is easy to seize if you put too much heat into it. I don't think they put too much of a weld on them in most cases.
You won't need to tow it either, it will drive fine.
It was the one Stao made or was bolted on, not stock anyway, the piece that's broken looks like it's been made out of several small bits of metal, it's not one single piece, there's still another piece left on the pin.Was welded with a quick tack weld only,not enough heat to penetrate the metal.
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Driving home last night, give it a foot full, car loses all boost and makes a tingly rattly noise, pop the bonnet this morning and found the culprit. Wastegate arm was welded on by I'm assuming someone who had their first go at welding?
Didn't even penetrate the metal!
So now I've got to get it towed or drive it gingerly to someone to weld the broken bit back on, love taking days off work for the car !
This is on my Hi Flow 34 turbo, hence posting in here ! -
Here's the dyno sheet.
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Yeah it's always been laggy, box has 215k On it, so lucky it is holding together at all.
well see how manual responds, but will also check pre load.
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Got my final tune on my 34 GTT with the Hi flow 34 Turbo PU with .63 rear. with the usual mods like exhaust and cooler plus injectors through shit auto, did 345hp @17 psi.
Hopefully when I go manual and better diff ratio 4.08 - 4.3 it will make it a bit more fun on the street as it's quite laggy still (4500rpm full boost).
But over all I'm stoked -
My 34 has the shit auto optioned diff that chicken wings the minute you turn a corner, will the 33 lsd Centre go in the 34 housing, or am I stuck looking for a 34 lsd?
Also, what skyline came with a torsen/helicaal Centre?
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I got these
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-skyline-NEO-r34-Stegea-350z-370z-infinity-g35-bosch-750cc-Fuel-injectors-/200906279410?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec6f289f2&_uhb=1#ht_2093wt_1271
Delivered in a week, car idles and drives a treat, It starts better than it did with stock injectors, lol
They are flow tested and each one has a report, also they are tested at stock fuel pressure, so no need for stupid fpr's.
I put out 320 rwhp without trying with these. -
I might know the car, that's all.
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Got the ad for the car or anything?
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Was it advertised as tuned/having a ecu or remap?
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What boost should I be expecting to run with my Hi flow, it's a PU OP6 with .63 rear as it's auto, I got it tuned today and it made 318hp @ 15psi, the stock 260,000km Coilpacks started failing after that, so once I get a Stall converter and some OEM or Splitfires, what would be a decent boost to run?
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Yeah that's what I'll do if I can't find anything local and cheaper
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Broken Stud In Head
in Western Australia
Posted
This guy - Best, comes to you
http://www.yellowpages.com.au/wa/kinross/peter-whitefoot-thread-repairs-12724949-listing.html