MonstaS4

I have a RB30/25 in my VL commondore with a GT3040 & 0.82 rear. It's making 260rwkw @ 14psi and is very usable. Starts to spool by 1600rpm and 14psi by 2600ish rpm. 1st gear is useless if you nail it but 2nd gear hooks up fairly well if on a reasonably fresh surface. 235's and a 3.45 diff help there i guess. In an R32, you may find it turns the tyres a little easier. For a 95% street driven car, IMO a GT3040 is spot on.

Adjusting it while the AAC is plugged in will do nothing because the AAC will compensate for the idle screw movement (Up to the min/max capabilities of the valve). i.e. idle speed is a closed loop system. The AAC will constantly adjust it's output to maintain a set idle speed e.g. 650rpm. I can't remember the exact proceedure, but i think you need to disconnect the AAC plug, then adjust the screw till idle is around 500rpm, then plug it back in. Obviously the engine needs to be warm.

There is no such part as a cold start solenoid. I'm guessing you mean the air regulator/cold air bypass valve. If this jams open, idle will be high. It has a bi-metal strip inside it which bends when heated. This bending slowly closes the valve. It is heated by 2 methods: 1) via heat transfer as it is mounted against a coolant gallery/hose. 2) Electricly heated. Anytime the fuel pumps are operating, power is supplied to the valve. The first method is used to keep the valve shut while the engine is warm (obviously), while the second method is to ensure the valve shuts after a period of 7 minutes or so after a cold start. Without the electrical heating, the heatsoak from the coolant would take a lot longer to shut the valve and idle would remain unneccessarily high. In saying that, my moneys on a vacuum leak.

I honestly didn't pay to much attention to the RPM/power relationship while it was on the dyno. My eyes were glued to the power figure! Like i said, the graph wasn't able to be printed at the time, so i'll have to wait till he e-mails it through. Wastegate is an external 48mm progate mounted on a custom adapter between manifold and turbo. ECU is a Haltech E11v2 with a 2 bar MAP sensor. The boost cut is set at 2 bar absolute (obviously) and even though the wastegate solenoid is set to provide 13psi, it occasionally spikes and hits the boost cut. Hopefully closed loop control will sort this out.

Just had the VL on the dyno and thought i'd post my results. A bit of background...... Stock RB30 block Stock R33 RB25DE head, VCT hooked up. R33 RB25DE oil pump GT3040, 0.82 rear RB20DET ex. manifold 550cc mazda 20B injectors 600x300 cooler Bosch 044 pump 258rwkw on 13psi 800ish Nm (can't remember exactly) Don't have a dyno printout ATM as the dyno keyboard shat itself, but he saved it and i should see it sometime this week.

There is no difference in cam or valve spring specs between a N/A R33 and a turbo R33. Here are the screenshots of the relevent pages in the service manual.......

Oil pump is an R33 RB25DE with a couple of washers under the relief spring to bump the pressure up a little.

I'll add to this my experiences....... RB30 with R33 25 head. VCT enabled. On the oil drain issue - head oil return is plumbed into the turbo oil return. Engine has been in and running for nearly 18 months without issue. On the oil restrictors - I originally built the engine with 2 x 2.4mm restrictors plus the 1.2mm or whatever the VCT is. I had heaps of oil out the breathers if i maintained 4000rpm+ for 5 seconds or more. About 4 months ago i purchased 2 x 1.5mm Tomei restrictors from Greenline. Punched the old ones down and put the 1.5's on top. So yes they fit the RB30. Oil blown out the breathers is now virtually nil. I did get a little (200ml) after a maintained high speed/rev run but otherwise i haven't checked the catch can since.

I just punched the old restrictors down and put the tomei's on top. So no, the gallery dosen't taper.

I havn't tried this, but surely you could still check ign timing while the engine is cranking over? If you've got spark, then the timing light has to be getting a signal. It won't be accurate, but you should be able to start it. You may have fuel, but do you have pressure? Can you hear the injectors switching?

Further to the above, Mahle own ACL. They are the sole manufacturers of pistons/rings in Australia. They also supply Holden, Ford, Mitsubishi and Toyota with their OEM gear. I done some work for them a couple of months ago. Pretty impressive factory.

Are you using the powergrip belt? The tooth profile does not match the cam gear and could cause the harmonics issue.

Check out the JEM website. They make adapters to suit various engines, aswell as piggyback adapters so you can keep the attessa operational. Totally agree with Buster. The E11v2 is the ducks guts. If you haven't already, download the software and check it out.

Are you sure it has correct fuel pressure? Fuel may be getting pumped to the rail but that's no guarantee you have pressure. Are the fuel lines on the correct way? Very common mistake. Return line goes on the regulator.

I have 2 adjustable tensioners, but no matter which way i adjusted them, i couldn't get them right. The first hole i drilled went straight into the water gallery so i drilled and tapped another further from the centre of the block. In hindsight, the first probably would have been ok with some locktite, but i didn't want to risk a water leak at the time. I have an R33 head and the VCT gear is adjustable from behind, and i bought an adjustable exh gear. Hopefully problem solved. Well i spent a weekend dialling in the cams, so it better be solved! Sky30, it's a 5 speed manual.