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Greanmachine UK

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Posts posted by Greanmachine UK

  1. need a brake servo for my NM35 .RS Four with hicas

    Unfortunately there are none being broken in the UK so my best bet is to try this forum.

    The part number stamped on the servo is AQ800 with THEN what looks like C2151. The label is not perfect so thats my best guess.

    Ive checked and think that any AQ800 servo will OK as AQ800 seems to be the body code although bbviously exactly the right number would be best

    It will need to be shipped to the uk . I will of course pay shipping etc

    Any help appreciated . Reply on thread , pm or email me on stagea,[email protected]

    Thanks

  2. As a matter of interest: what mods did you have, and what boost were you running the -5s at on the 2.6L setup?

    Sounds very similar to what I have now, and I go back for the power tune in a couple of weeks: would be nice to have some knowledge of a similar setup, although I'm tuning for midrange rather than outright power...

    Head was stock , stage 1 tomei cams . greddy induction, mapped using fcon v pro gold . ran 1.5 bar through a profec b controller

    adustable cam pullies. tomei rods and pistons

    print out at the hubs

    stageadynorunnov09-1-1-1.jpg

  3. Thanks for the input especially the dyno print out. And yes I certainly did read it thanks

    And based on that and also other advice over here I have decided that the 5s stay for sure

    Should be interesting to drive once it is back on the road. I will definately have to check piggaz's spec to see how it compares with mine

    And If I do ever want to chase numbers I can always have it mapped for E85.

  4. I think you'll find -5's to be too big for a 2.8 in a stagea. It's the weight that's the killer. You wont move 400kg+ more as easily.

    My vote would be for r34 N1's if you wan't somthing usable, unless you'r just chasing numbers... and T51r it is.

    Im not chasing numbers infact the exact opposite which is why I dont want a t51 .

    The problem isnt that the -5s will be too big it is that they might be too small. As said earlier in the thread the 5s were fine on the car when it had a 26 with stage 1 cans and no head work

    The 28 is a step 2 HKS motor with stage 2 cams and a fully flowed head

    As for weight the car making a huge difference - with a that 26 set up it ran 30-130 in 13.2 seconds on a v box so I am sure they wont be too big,

    But all input appreciated

  5. Thanks for the replies I had looked the garret gtx 3582R and the precision range

    Agree. -5's are borderline too big for a 26 but awesome on anything bigger. Mine were a bit laggy on my 26 but can't wait too see what they're like on my 30.

    The 5s were fine on my 26 which had stage 1 cams and was tuned with an Fcon. Obviously they didnt spool up by 3000rpm but I wouldnt have called them laggy for a turbos putting out 575.

    My issue is that it will run out of steam too easily with a step 2 tuned RB28

  6. It seems that we are often behind on tuning RBs in the uk so I thought I would get some advice from here.

    I am putting a step two 2.8 hks engine in my stagea . It has stage 2 cams and a flowed head and all other relevant oil mods etc,

    Previously the car had a rb26 with 2860-5s and was runing around 575 . This is before I killed it......... which is another story

    The turbos are supposed to max out at somewhere between 600-650 ( sorry its bhp not kw over here)

    I am tempted to use the 5s as it should about as responsive as you could get plus of course I have the turbos, pipework and induction already.

    If I am going to change I am drawn towards the single route and would welcome any suggestions.

    some info

    The engine has run a t51kai and produced silly power which I dont want or need .

    It has been refreshed and the rest of the car will cope with the power I am looking at .

    700 bhp atf would be nice and is achieveable but I am not sure how much different it would spool up to keeping the 5s

    as said before any suggestions appreciated (as long as they are sensible)

  7. "guilty" as above :yes:

    I now have the skylab fusion working on my series 1 .

    I know the guy who makes the fusion in the UK and we spent quite a while working out how to get it to work.

    To get the best of the system the cars handling needs to be better than standard , for example an lsd really helps ( a GTR one will Fit)

    Mine also has a manual conversion and an RB26 but the fusion will work on any series one stagea

    The fusion has much faster g sensors ( digital I think) and this includes lateral sensors which the S1 doesnt have.

    Not surprisingly the stagea attessa ecu isnt able to deal with lateral sensor inputs as it doesnt have them. A GTR does so we looked at using a GTR attessa ECU.

    The ECUs can be swopped - the pin out are the same although the wiring is different. With a GTR attessa and the fusion it all works and the results are really impressive.

    It doesnt understeer !!!

    It is a bit more complicated than a simple plug and play but certainly not beyond anyone as long as they understand basic wiring diagrams and can use a soldering iron.

    I can do a thread about the conversion if people want to read it

  8. Hopefully I can shed some light on this

    I believe the problem is that the s1 stagea ecu does not have the capability of producing a torque gauge output.

    A friend of mine makes the skylab TSC and had just produced an updated version called fusion.

    It has a much faster G sensors and allows adjustment to both the front/rear split and the lateral sensor readings .

    We recently looked into fitting this to my series one stagea .which meant looking at the stagea and GTr wiring diagrams

    After some thought we concluded that the unit would not work unless a GTR ecu was fitted The ecu plugs are the same although the colours and spacing of the wires are different which is why there is no output for the torque gauge. I imagine that s2 stageas should be as 34GTT.

    As for fitting the fusion unit here was an amount of rewiring but nothing serious

    The unit has been fitted and it all works including the adjustable lateral sensor system.and has definitely improved the handling ,

    Im not sure what improvement there would be to a standard(ish) stagea as mine is far from standard

    The suspension set up is

    Nismo S Tune suspension , Whiteline arbs , GTR LSD , Whiteline subframe and diff bushes . Polybushed GTR hubs and lower arms All other arms are adjustable and are polybushed. Custom rear strut brace , Tyres 245 40 18 toyo 888s .

  9. I dont know if the speeds are any different but the GTR system does a lot more.

    The new G sensor if much faster than the standard one so Im told this speeds up the response and I now have lateral sensors that work.

    The system is using the fully functioning GTR ECU with the added ability to bias the f/r split and the way it reacts to under/oversteer

  10. This is a different approach ( I think )

    We are swopping the stagea attessa ecu for a GTR one and providing lateral sensor readings. This should give exactly the same AWD system as a GTR except both the front /rear split and the way the car reacts to a "slide will be adjustable using the fusion controller.

  11. An update

    We have just managed to fit the GTR attessa system to the car (series 1) coupled with a fusion ajustable g sensor system.

    The fusion is the latest version of the skylab controller developed by a friend of mine in the UK.

    So I now have a working lateral sensor system which can be adjusted along with the front rear torque split.

    Predictably it has snowed or rained every day since it was finished but took the car out today and the adjustable fusion set up is definately working.

    I cant really tell how well it works as with 500atw (uk figs) on a greasy surface it was a question of how much it goes sideways rather that if it went sideways.

    All I can say is it goes sideways less

    So i am waiting for some good weather so i can put 888s back on and try it out properly.

  12. The car went for its MOT and passed . Needed a front wheel bearing and a CV boot .

    Ive also found out the springs were cut down a bit so have fitted stock ones which sits the car a little higher .

    Ive removed the tacky foglight and wired the foglight through the heated screen switch to one of the reversing lights .This has the required warning light when its on (needed for UK regs) and means no extra switches on the dash . If I want the heated sceen on i have a hidden crosssover to convert the switch back to work it

    A few pics of the first day out

    004_zpsf9147777.jpg

    005_zpsb62ecbc1.jpg

    Ive been asked my quite a few what its like driving a stock 32GTR . Well now i have taken the car for a nice run I can say.

    It wasnt what I expected

    First and biggest impression is it doesnt sound like a GTR

    The car is amazingly quiet inside - You can even hear the injectors on tickover In fact you cant really hear the exhaust at all untill around 4000rpm . It does liven up after that but it is never even close to loud.

    Handling wise its simply awesome for a stock 20+ year old car and goes in and out of all corners as if on rails . Admittedly it does have brand new suspension but even so I am very impressed ,

    The brakes are not great but not as bad as I expected having got used to AP.s on my Stagea

    The performance is not stunning . I can certainly see why they were/are modded

    Around town it is really graet to drIve, . Power ciomes in pretty immeadiately with no lag. It is however not very quick when pushed anf does run out of steam at around 6000. This may be a bit unfair as I am used to twin 2560-5s

    On a motorway it will cruise at pretty sensible speeds without a problem . It is actually quite eerie as there is no noise at all at road speed limits .not at all what I expected

    But all in all I am very impressed for completely stock 20+ year old car- I think it would have knocked spots off what else was around at the time.

  13. Did you even read the thread?

    Thanks - saved me saying it.

    So to confirm the idea was to restore it to factory spec - thats why the strut brace is red

    No 32GTRs were painted with the same paint finish under the bonnet a lot had a different colour under the bonnett and the ones that were the "same" were a matt finish so looked out of place just as much.

    All mentioned in the thread ...............

  14. Due to me forgetting my password and changing my email address I have had to re register under grean machine and rather than start this thread again i will update it using my current name. Hope that’s in order.

    So an update with apologies for the poor quality pics but they were taken on my phone

    The new suspension is on

    .

    IMG_0727.jpg

    The exhaust is fitted and sounds remarkably sporty

    A few more parts have been sourced ..........

    A mint dashboard with good vents out no bubbles

    073.jpg

    dash removed (not as hard as I expected)

    086.jpg

    and new one in

    IMG_1237-1.jpg

    Original wheels and brakes are now on. Only issue was the rear calipers had been p[ainted silver . Luckily this had been done badly so all the paint came off easily with nitromors and just left the original satin black finish.

    Also a had a major find and probably my favourite one.........an original japanese 32 GTR sales brochure in mint condition

    IMG_1246-1.jpg

    IMG_1244.jpg

    I have also found a set of original mats in as near to perfect condition as I could hope for.

    Nearly all the silly little bits have been sorted - pedal rubbers and a few internal clips and trims

    I did find an original radio but it has the plastic covers missing so am on the hunt for a better one

    Also need to find the right fasteners for the wind deflectors - they are on and fit but are not fixed well enough to drive the car yet. I may be better off going to Nissan that is if they still do them ?

  15. a dyno print out

    stageadynorunnov09-1-1-1.jpg

    Max power 502.9 max torque 455 ft lbs. at the hubs

    For reference the figures are the ones I have . They are awd at the hubs on dynapack rollers at Abbey Motorsport who are not known for silly claims. However please feel free to convert to downunder figures in any way you choose - Im not going to .

    Personally I only use they as a comparison between then and now or in the future, they are what they are.

    It has had a few mods since then . Power is down a small bit but the torque is up to around 480

    And thanks for your concern wolverine the amps is bolted down

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