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letemlaf

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Posts posted by letemlaf

    Gearbox Repair Shop Perth

    in Western Australia

    Posted

    I've rang around today a few gearbox shops and no one seems overly familiar with the rb25det 5sp gearbox.

    Anyone around (preferably around welshpool area) who knows what their doing?

    I thought i had a fluid leak from the master or slave cylinder or even air in the line because last night while driving home i couldnt get it into gear, only if i really pressed my foot almost through the firewall i could get into gear.

    Done all the checks/bleeds etc with no luck. By this morning the car would not go into gear at all to even drive to a clutch shop.

    Called out a clutch specialist and he said its seems like the bearing has gone and the pedal box weld has broken.

    Mystery Symptoms

    in General Maintenance

    Posted

    My gf brought home her 2003 accent (man) complaining of a vibrating and a little power loss.

    The first thing i noticed was a chuffing noise coming from the exhaust.

    I took out each of the 4 spark plugs and they were covered in soot so i cleaned them up again, then put a spark plug in each of the lead and held it against some steel to make sure each lead was generating a spark. They all were but they were a weaker yellow rather than blue.

    So i took the car from a drive and found the problem was still there. Whats actually happening is that around 1500rpm in neutral the car vibrates fairly violently so it was a little difficult reversing out of the driveway and there was a good smell of petrol in the air.

    While driving the car seems to only have a minor power loss and in the higher rpm it is much less noticable.

    I then decided to remove a lead from each cylinder then drive a little to see which cylinder was playing up.

    cyl 1 = slightly less power (than with all 4 connected)

    cyl 2 = significantly less power

    cyl 3 = almost no difference in power

    cyl 4 = completely undrivable

    Im guessing that the valve in cyl 3 or possibly cyl 1 is not sealing properly causing these symptoms.

    any other suggestions from these symptons?

    cheers!

    Powerfc 'cammed' Lumpy Idle

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I thought i would give this a go for a bit of fun when i go to my gf's house with a whole pack of v8's that live over the road.

    Im a little unsure on what to do...

    Steps 1, 2 and 3 i can do (is it saying i should hear lumpy idle now?)

    Where it says to turn the car off and dial back the crank angle sensor, is that listed under 'cranking'?

    I think the rest is pretty straight forward after that.

    Cheers

    1. Turn car ON

    2. SETTING, IGN/INJ

    3. Press DOWN 1 time

    If you observe lumpy idle then note the number ie: -1 If you don't observe lumpy idle, press DOWN again. Keep repeating until you get lumpy idle, don't go past -3 or -4 it's too much. Now with that number in mind do the following

    1. Turn car OFF

    2. Dial back the Crank Angle Sensor whatever number you had in IGN/INJ Adjust, so if you had -2 dial it back 2 deg

    3. Turn car to ACC

    4. Edit the IGN map and shift every cell UP whatever number you used in #2. So if it was -2 then add 2deg timing to every IGN cell on the map

    3. Turn car ON

    4. Observe lumpy idle

    New Wheels, Stripped Threads

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    i hand screw them in 90% of the way and only tighten the last bit by hand and i only tighten them enough to hold and check them the next day so its very unlikely i've overtightened them or crossthreaded them.

    I do them in opposites from each other but i crack them on the floor then jack right up to unscrew and losen, that could do this?

    The nuts are 12x1.25

    cheers

    New Wheels, Stripped Threads

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Hi guys

    I bought a set of advan sa3r second hand 17"

    My old nuts were too fat to fit inside the new wheels so i bought a heap of new ones.

    The ones i bought seem to fit perfectly, but i have just taken the wheels off to spray them black and the front right wheel had 2 nuts that were so tight, even after using wd40 and a bit of oil to lube them up we could bearly remove them by jacking it back and forth until it finally came off very reluctantly. It wasn't like they were tight for a small part of the thread but from start until finish.

    2 of the studs are partly stripped of their threads and need replacing as well as the 2 nuts.

    I'm wondering how this could have happened so i can avoid it in future. im not a newbie to wheels and know not to overtighten or cross threads and what not else.

    Btw, what are the stud sizes because i need to buy some more (and hopefully from a wrecker).

    Spray Touch Up Paint For Rims

    in Cosmetic, Styling & Respray

    Posted

    I'd sand and prime the rim first. Then mask the outer rim, and spray the insides black. Allow to completely dry, and then mask off the inner area, and spray the outer rim in red.

    You can allow for a bit of overlap where the spoke joins the outer rim, so little more black around 5-10 mm where it joins. Then when you goto do the red it should almost look seemless. You might want to finish this area up with a fine brush.

    thats great, thanks for the tip

    Spray Touch Up Paint For Rims

    in Cosmetic, Styling & Respray

    Posted

    Gluck, show us some pics when you're done mate!

    btw. if you're covering large surfaces, not just spot repairs, then you may need to spray gun. And if you have any heavy rashing, use a metal file and grind it flat... and then use a metal reinforced putty.

    yeah i will do.

    Its a 3 twin spoke wheel with quiet a dish so i thought i may have some trouble spraying where the spokes go right into the dish coz its quiet narrow, any tips for those area's?

    Cheers

    Spray Touch Up Paint For Rims

    in Cosmetic, Styling & Respray

    Posted

    I have a set of advan racing rims that are chrome and im going to spray them black with a red rim.

    I was going to use dupicolor they have paint designed for wheels.

    I was thinking about using a touch up paint the same colour red as my car for the rim, then just using the duplicolor clear coat to protect. Do you think id have any trouble doing it this way?

    Flow Tested My Injectors

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Done a lot of this stuff before myself.

    The info given is not the absolute flow rate of the injectors, but a flow rate for them being pulsed on & off for 15 seconds, rather than a minute.

    However there is a lot of info missing. It doesn't tell you what proportion of the time the injectors are turned on (duty cycle) & what speed they are turning on & off at.

    I think the 35milliseconds refers to how long the injector is on for each time it is pulsed, but without the other info it means nothing.

    40psi is also an odd pressure to use as normally flow ratings on injectors is done using 3 bar of pressure or 43.5 PSI.

    To put it in perspective the rating you have been given is from the people that tested it is:

    284cc/min @ 2.76 Bar with ?% duty cycle & 36ms duration for each pulse

    The rating for your injectors as you have stated is:

    555cc/min @ 3 bar with 100% duty cycle (Ie it is on 100% of the time)

    I think i understand what you mean.

    So it is probable that the injectors will make 555cc at 100% duty

    The reason im asking is because i just want to make sure i run them safely when i install and retune.

    Do you think i should find someone else to flow test them?

    Flow Tested My Injectors

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    I bought some injectors a little while back and they seem to be getting more and more suss.

    i got them flow tested the other day and these are the readings i got for some 555cc inj.

    71cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    69cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    70cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    71cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    71cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    72cc @40 psi for 15 sec

    All done at 36ms

    I don't know if he tested them correctly but the figures as far as i can tell dont meet 555cc however you work it out.

    cheers

    Red 555cc Nismo Injectors?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    you sure there not those venom injectors getting around.

    does it say JECS anywhere?

    It may be possible that there simpy an older model NISMO injector, I wouldnt get too worried if they dont look exactly like the latest edition. A few people have confirmed them as being 700's so they most likely are.

    yes it does say JECS, does that mean their venom?

    there are actually numbers on the top

    6E555707

    A46-00

    Are venom any good? (just out of interest)

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