Pandaemonaeon
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Posts posted by Pandaemonaeon
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Any idea on price Steve. My set also gave up the ghost (as they all do in a very short space of time), and the only place i found that could do them told me around $350 a corner.
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I have now seen two different base models that these were produced off. From what I understand most of them originated from the 25X, as this was the cheapest 4wd to come from the Nissan factory, but I have also seen one made from an RS4. 3 of my friends have 260's, and the ones that came from the 25X were the newer model that had the Xenon lights etc, and also didn't still have the AT dash with the gear indicator up the centre like you can see on the above one.
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I have an HKS intercooler and it fits perfectly. I will be cutting into the reinforcement shoertly though as the intercooler sits behind it and I am modifying my bumper to the actual size of it.
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Skyline model = R33 GTS25T
Wheel diameter = 17 Inch
Wheel width = 8 front/ 9.5 rear
Wheel offset = +28mm (I think)
Tyre size = 245/45/17 F, 285/40/17 R
Modifications to fit = Gaurds rolled on rear, but need flaring to fit without touching.
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Cheers. Looks like I might have my car back today then
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Sorry, but search function doesn't seem to be working to well. Are the RB20 and 25 turbo exhaust manifolds the same? I know the turbo flanges are the same, but do they also match up on the head. I can't get a hold of a 25 one, but there are plenty of 20 ones lying around.
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Yokohama DNA GP
Dry: 6/10
Wet: 0/10 Not fun having the car kick out at 140km/h when passing someone.
Value: They were on the car when I got it
Goodyear Eagle F1 GSD3 only on rear ATM: 285/40/17
Dry: Haven't got them to break traction yet, can't push them hard enough to lose traction as the car just understeers
Wet: Same as dry
Value: 10/10 at $330 each, not sure what retail is though.
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I had a '88 Bluebird. Wasn't a bad car apart from the terrible twin spark engine. Impossible to get any parts for.
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I'm guessing you guys don't get them, because basically everybody in NZ (including me) use Goodyear Eagle GSD3's. I'm running 285/40/17 GSD3's on the rear of my R33 and can not break traction in the wet or dry.
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A little OT but I find there is nothing worse than jumping into an auto and going to hit the clutch as you slow down, and almost launching yourself through the windscreen as you hit the brake pedal. Guilty of that a few times.
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The only thing I would be worried about would be driving on gravel with no inner guards on. You'll end up getting hundreds of tiny dents on the inside of your front guards that'll stick up.
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Holy crap. In New Zealand I pay $600 per year for full insurance for my GTS25T valued for $19000 with around $6000 worth of mods added on top of that. I do have a 72% NCB though.
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Man, you guys pay so much for insurance. I don't think I would buy a car that cost me so much to insure.
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It seems from what I have seen less than half of the S2's have ABS on them. Mine does though.
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The things that I have noticed with the Jap exhausts that you generally won't get with custom built ones is:
1. Some of the mufflers can be pulled apart so you can reline them etc.
2. They are made very light if weight is an issue for you.
3. As Gizmo said they have been designed specifically for your car with a huge amount of testing done so they will generally give great power results.
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I've had the exact opposite. Had Yoko DNA GP's on when I first got the car and with 238RWKW (supposedly) at 140km/h in the wet the car would just spin up, whereas with the Falkens I can plant it in 1st gear in the wet no worries.
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The Falken's I'm running seem to be a very good tyre, lots of grip in the wet and dry. I think the RRP on the Falkens is about $750 each for my car though, so they aren't worth spending that much on. Will probably go to Goodyear F1's as the are about the only manufacturer to make a 285/17 and they are supposed to be the best on the market at the moment.
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Ifound getting them in/out not too bad apart from the one in the very back on the drivers side. The loom for all the injectors runs right over it so it's really difficult to get into there. Found the easiest way was to use long nose pliers to drop the screw into the hole, and then use the driver to tighten it. This was only after dropping the screw about 4 times and having to pick it up off the top of the gearbox.
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I just used normal car paint for the centre cover. You do have to add wax drops to the paint though as the paint doesn't adhere to the plastic too well, and you also get a build up of oil etc on it.
For the cam/ tappet cover I polished the outside and the inside bits (which are mostly covered by the centre piece) just used heat proof black paint. The screws were not overly tight. IE: They were easily undone by a screwdriver, but you do have to take a lot of pieces off to get to them, like throttle body etc.
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I got done last year the weekend after labour weekend for an "unecessary exhibition of acceleration" as the cops were on a rampage trying to impound every car that they could. Fortunately for me I know the law better than the cops did so never had to go to court or anything as I sent them a complaint form and it seems like they have accidentally misplaced all the paperwork. Had 2 speeding fines and once for carrying passengers too.
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R33 GTS25T
22
New Zealand
Production Management
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I think the difference is Meremere is more like a farm driveway than a 1/4 mile strip.
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Yeah. It was a bad day yesterday. About 3 hours later my brain started working again and I realised what I had done. Always helps to square the number. :bonk:
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This is of little consequence but one thing you people are forgetting is drivetrain losses. The 33 might have only 15kw more at the flywheel stock, but I guarantee there is likely to be a hell of a lot more difference at the wheels where it matters, due to loss of power through the 4WD. Isn't it getting pretty close to 40% loss with most 4WD's?
Ecr33 Hunting At Cold Idle
in General Maintenance
Posted
I have an issue with my skyline hunting like crazy when the engine is cold.
Unfortunately we changed a whole heap of stuff at the same time so trying to figure out exactly what is causing it may be a problem.
I installed a Greddy intake manifold with Q45 Throttle body, Z32 AFM, Emanage ultimate and new fuel rail/ injectors in one hit.
Due to the fact that my 02 sensor wiring has melted this is also unplugged at the moment.
From cold the car will hunt between 1000-2000 rpm. As soon as there is load on the engine it will hold revs absolutely fine though.
Once you have been driving for around 20 minutes the idle will come right, although sometimes missing a bit, and once warm starting from then on it is also fine until it cools right down again.
I know I've left a rediculous number of possibilities open, but was hoping someone had fixed this exact issue before.
Any help would be much appreciated thanks.