GTRB27

I will have look the booster when i get the car back.Im not too sure about the brake place but he wasent too keen to test drive the brakes after he did it he said not enough vacuum .I had to bed the pads and it was struggling to stop. talking to jim from CRD and he said he could fiddle with the cams to help the problem a bit.Or put a vacuum pump and canister ????? I have done nothing to my brake system bar pads .would i have to do anything to master cylinder ? my car is weekend car maybe 1-2 track day a year(havent been yet) so im not in to time attack or hot lap yet .surely there are people with extensive modification than my .what have you guys done to your brake systems. Cheers

Hi all Recently I changed my brake pads with Endless Mx72 pads, machined disks,flushed fluid.... Brake peddal feels hard and its still not feeling normal since my engine build.(drive it once a week and have not test its limit yet) Apparently only have 7psi boost and need to get a brake vacuum pump and res tank. Just wanted to know what people using/doing to fix this issue? thanks

1996 r33 gtr v spec nitto 2.7 full stroker kit nitto oil pump 9 litre sump extension arp main and head studs acl race bearings ATI balancer nitto rear oil drain kit CRD race head 700cc inj -5s tomei dumps CRD front pipe/high flow cat 3 1/2" exhaust splitfire coil paks haltech platnium pro Next E-flex fuel

Thanks for that thats what i was thinking. im taking it back to get it checked again

i recently did a full rebuild with Nitto stroker kit and alot more including ATI balancer and all the belts(PS/WP/AC with DAYCO 3 weeks old). After a couple of goes last sunday at eastern creek i noticed the AC belt is starting to delaminate I have already talked to the engine builder and he supposed to get back to me. I just wanted to know what brand belts people using with ATI balancers?.And is it the belts or something else? Thank you in advance

Thanks mate yes its getting done soon

Hi all After reading lot of thread on Hicas I think my hicas on 33 gtr is playig up and needs emidiate action.I have checked the whole suspension nothing wrong there.I have already bought Tomei Hicas lock"now i see that everyone gets rid of theirs" . For mainly street driven and few track days a year is it worthed to get it fix (if it can be done) or get ridd of it? THANK YOU for any advice/experience

yes charlie after 6 months .and yes you might have mentioned it . then i will find a turbo/ cam/fuel to match the clutch Lol

when its all the way dow its ratteling. still running the engine in with nitto 2.7 full stroker kit sump ex,oil pump and CRD race head but stiking with my unknown drop in cams........ so i thought while the engine is out better do the transmission too (8.5k including other nissan parts for gear sets) next step is big fuel system and presision turbo 400-500 kw mark havent decided yet thats why i went with something big so i dont have to worrie about transmission

its more like something is loose when 3/4 down and in first no rattle .its weird guys at .CRD sayingnothing wrong with it and you have to use it right away. I like to stay in first when the traffic light is almost green or on the hill maybe i just have to get to used to it

Recently i upgraded my transmission to Os 1-5 gear set and quad plate clutch. When the clutch is applied there is a big noise/rattle.Is this normal? Can't hear the noise in 2nd to fifth maybe on the move and the car too loud?? Has anybody had this issues ? any feed back woud be appriciated. Thanks

R33 gtr Vspec stock internals Garrett -5s tomei dumps,Crd front pipe,100 cell cat,3.5 in exhaust tomei cam gears, cams 250-260 ??? 720 injectors,Haltech platnium pro 331awkw @ 20 psi nitto 2.7 full stroker kit,9L sump extension,crd full race head(not the cams) n1 oil and water pumps im still runinnig the engine in will post new results very soon

Hey mate do you still have this? Thanks