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Hey guys, My engine started playing up at the end of last year after some tune and spark issues. Compression was showing that each cylinder was still making reasonably healthy compression, but there was some variation (20psi diff between highest/lowest). So I decided to use this as an excess for a forged rebuild and to fix a few other problems with the car. However, as I don’t have the time or the knowledge I decided to look a reputable builder. Luckily, Paul (of Red R Racing fame) is a Newcastle local and after a month of two of trying, finally got hold of him for a chat. Although his reputation preceded him, I was utterly impressed with his knowledge, build history and passion for RB’s. I knew straight away I’d come to the right person. After a talk with Paul – here’s what I pencilled down for the build Stock block – dipped, prepped, grouted and machined Red R racing 8.5L baffled sump Nitto/JE 86.5mm pistons ACL race series bearings Stock crank, grub screwed and balanced Stock rods, tested, prepped and balanced ARP rod bolts N1 water pump Nitto oil pump Full nitto gasket kit Ross 1500hp balancer New Nissan head/intake/exhaust studs Red R racing modified CAS sensor Red R racing oil catch can/washer bottle combo Adjustable cam gears Gates timing belt kit Tomei 260/9.15 type poncams Tomei type B valve springs, retainers & valve sleeves Yellow jacket coilpacks (I have a spare set of splitfires on standby) Twin 2860-5’s mines triple flow cam baffles r34 n1 exhaust manifold r34 vspec dumps some sort of exhaust some sort of clutch some sort of legal intake system In addition to that, the car was already equipped with a twin entry ARC 4” I/C and nismo oil cooler The set-up listed is pretty well proven and with Paul’s expertise, I hope to maximise the -5 potential. However, I’m not really targeting a power figure (it would be nice to crack 400awkw to join the club lol), just a very reliable built engine that will pass engineering with minor adjustments. I also bought the car with a few known problems (it was an impulse bought cheapie, but predominantly suited for what I was after), so while it’s off the road, I’ll be getting these fixed/changed 4wd – car has been runing in rwd, which made driving in the wet interesting. The transfer clutch plates or atessa is the suspected problem here Spigot bearing grinding when clutch is disengaged Clutch slipping slightly in 1st when cold Rusted rear diffuser brackets. Crappy vacuum line setup and some funny wiring in the engine bay. A few hoses/joiners showing there age. The rims are held on by an M36 bolt, and basically need a rattle gun to take off. Here’s some photos of the car Pics & progress to follow soon once mods approve thread. Cheers, Joel