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At the end of last week I noticed my car was leaking coolant. After having a bit of a closer look, I noticed it was the water line that goes vertically down from the coolant bleeder, and into the engine block. I removed the line and noticed that the metal nipple that the coolant hose joins onto to has corroded, meaning that the end of the metal nipple is now jagged and straight instead of that mushroom head shape it normally has to stop the hose coming off and I presume also stop it leaking (makes a tight seal against the rubber hose). Anyway it took me nearly a whole day to take off that hose and a larger one near it to determine which was the cause of the leak, and then I replaced the standard clamp that you pinch to open with pliers, with a worm drive hose clamp. It's very tight working under the inlet manifold so again, it took me ages, and lost lots of skin from the hands. Yay. I eventually got around to topping up the coolant again and noticed it was still leaking, even though I had tightened up the clamp as much as possible since it was free spinning if I try to tighten further. What does everyone do in this situation? The metal nipple is solidly connected to the engine. If it were to be replaced I'd imagine you'd have to cut it off and weld on another, which would require the inlet manifold to be removed. Surely this level of repair isn't what's needed in this situation. Please help. My car is off the road because of a dumb water leak and it's annoying me.

COOLANT LEAKING R34 GTT So I realise this when my oil temperature went up half way about 110 degrees on a normal drive, came home after half an hour of driving and turned off the engine and check the engine and it was literally boiling you can hear it!! Next morning I went to check the coolant in the radiator and it was GONE, I thought I blew the head gasket!! I poured about 4 litres off coolant and it was back to normal but then I realise there's coolant leaking where my water pump is, I'm not certain it's the water pump but it's all around that area, and it drips down to where my oil sump is what do you guys think and it's not little drips, I turn the car on and it drips a nice puddle in less than a minute :0 I checked my oil and there's no milky or any smoke from exhaust, just a leak, could be thermos housing but the leaks looks more above it thing is my mechanic replaced the water pump, and whole timing kit and also my 3 belt just 1 month ago. So it's still new ! Heres some pictures

Damaged alluminium housing for water pipe! HELP! It still leaks, how to fix this? Here is the problem. Rather than on the R33 this time, this one is on the wife's car, an E46 BMW 3 Series. Long story short I, for reliability, decided to replace the whole cooling system of hoses, plastic pipes, radiator etc (BMW use shitty plastic which fails over time).One of the plastic heater pipes goes into an aluminium housing into the engine and thanks to 13 years of heat cycles it was firmly stuck in and infact sheared when I finally removed the pipe. Despite being as careful as I could the housing was inevitably damaged when I removed the fused-in remaining plastic and this is a major problem as the new pipe and 2 O-rings needs a perfect fit otherwise it leaks. Naturally this is all under the intake manifold system which to remove and refit takes between 1/2 to 1 Days work. I've now attempted to fix it 3 times and am getting quite tired of doing this. Each time it will still end up slowly leaking and usually in the process will swell the o-ring and I need to purchase new ones for stupid prices at BMW. Here is what I've attempted as a fix. 1 - Installed new pipe with some windscreen silicon jammed in between the 2 O-rings. (leaked) 2 - Cleaned area and gave a very light sand to smooth the housing, new O-rings and refit. (leaked) 3 - Cleaned up area, new O-rings and used a stack of RTV silicon gasket (leaks, but less) Which this most recent fix has it leaking the least, its still not a permanent fix due to its very slow propensity to leak. I don't want to have to buy a new timing case panel (which incorporates the housing) as even through my cheap online place, its around $500! A used one will no doubt have the same damage, plus doing this is more major engine work which I don't have energy for. So, my question to you all; What PROVEN methods do you have for this situation? What have you done that has worked? I know it happens that people can damage the water pump surface etc when trying to remove, eg, thermostat, water pump etc so surely there is some wisdom out there. What is a reliable fix? Thanks! Oh, as a bonus, an error code has just come up indicating the knock sensor is faulty, so that's gotta be swapped too. Where is that, you ask? Its that cable and bolt to the left of the BMW stamp in the photo below. So I have to take who whole inlet system off agaaaaaaaaain anyway *sigh*.