Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fin.JPG

2 : Our Universal Hybrid GT Spec Intercooler is using our latest Tube & Fin structure, unlike the Bar & Plate structure, the tube design is one whole piece. We stopped production of the Drift Spec Bar & Plate Universal Hybrid Intercooler since 30-6-2005.

3 : Our Universal Hybrid GT Spec Intercooler has highly polished endtanks, 3" inlet and outlet size for the maximum flow. not 2.5" on the fake ones.

4 : Our Hybrid GT Spec Tube & Fin intercooler is developed with our latest technology, it is only approx. 6.2 kgs, the fake ones are extremely heavy and up to 12 kgs. The fake one is much more heavier and making your car lose power, it just doesnt make any sense at all.

clamp.JPG

5 : All Hybrid clamps are made in T304 stainless steel with the latest T-bolt clamping mechanism. All Hybrid clamps have Hybrid logo stamped on. Unlike the fake ones, our clamps have no slots, so it wont damage the silicone hoses. Except the 1.5", 2" and 2.25" clamps.

pipe.JPG

6 : Our Hybrid clamps sizes are according to the diameter of the pipe together with the thickness of the silicone hoses. The fake kits have all the wrong sized clamps that cant even be put on the hoses, very dodgy. It is because the manufacturers of the fakes dont even have the slightest idea of the items that they are manufacturing, absolutely no research & development were put to make the item work.

hose.JPG

7 : All Hybrid reinforced silicone hoses are shiny blue colour, wall thickness is approx. 3.5mm with 3 layers of reinforcement. Not rubber hoses the fake ones are using, rubber hose is soft and will expand when hot, eventually causing the hose to pop out and cause engine damage.

I need one for my R34 GT-T got any in stock?

yes, we have the Skyline Hybrid kit in tock. please ket us know asap as we are ending the hybrid promotion this week.



  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...