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GTSBoy last won the day on September 6

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About GTSBoy

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  1. GTSBoy

    The importer who put that sticker on the car is a fu(king moron.
  2. GTSBoy

    Bullshit. 100 RON is the good stuff in Japan going back decades. No RB turbo will run happily on <95. Timing should be 15-20 depending on auto manual. 10 is still bad, indicating the ECU is pulling timing to (try to) control idle. Idle speed should be ~650rpm hot. Codes are listed on various web pages and in the R34 manual, which can also be googled and downloaded.
  3. GTSBoy

    Firstly, we have to guess that this is an R34. The only way to make that guess is by your mention of TCS. Secondly....Say what now (?) about the octane rating of the fuel. Nissan turbos need 98RON juice, at least. 95 won't do. There's no such thing as 93RON, and 91 will just lead to engine destruction. 93 octane is an American thing. It's not RON. It's broadly equivalent to 96+ RON. It's the best stuff you can get in most parts of the US. Anyway - you need 98 and it should not affect the idle. Next. Was the car trying just at cold idle in the first screengrab? Followed by warm idle in the next one? If so, nothing looks outrageous in any of the values, except the timing at zero in the warm idle. If that really is 0 degrees, then the ECU is trying to pull the idle down by running really retarded timing, which would suggest that your IACV is not working. Fluffy idle would then be a symptom of the bad timing. As to the error codes.....why do you not just google the remaining code and see what it is? You'll probably find out that it is the ECU's version of the fault causing the TCS CU to crap out. And then, if you want to know why the TCS system is faulting, you will need to take the car to a workshop with a proper scantool so they can interrogate the TCS computer and find out which of the dozen different things that could be wrong with it is in fact wrong.
  4. GTSBoy

    This needs correction too though (like my first post!). The VSS comes from the speedo head.
  5. GTSBoy

    ABS/TCS computer talks to the ECU on the Nissan bus. Sends fault codes back and forth. Damage something in the TCS system (say, the TCS throttle position sensor) and the ECU will raise a DTC. It is conceivable that the ABS/TCS computer could crack the shits and go into fault. But the sheer number of R34s running around with aftermarket ECUs would suggest that the junior systems keep working without big daddy still running the show. There is one thing though......most of these other systems (HICAS, ATESSA, TCS) require the VSS signal from the ECU. HICAS will certainly shit itself without it. So I'm sure you have to do something about that.
  6. GTSBoy

    Keep in mind that what you guys are proposing is not completely trivial. The climate computer on these cars is responsible for running the AC compressor clutch, varying the mode door and opening and closing the heater water line tap. There are some reasonably sophisticated control loops programmed into it to get the cabin temperature to match the setpoint you give it. These are what ends up driving the water tap, the clutch and the mode door positions. You'd want a pretty good idea of all the things that the existing one does, both from an external view (ie the signals in and out) but, more importantly, those internal calculations and loops. I'm not saying don't do it. I'm just saying if you want to program an Arduino to do it, you have to appreciate that you're emulating a possibly more complex piece of gear than you might have thought.
  7. Yes, given that you're limited to the same size tyres that fit ideally on an 8" wheel you don't gain any benefit from the 9" wheel! + a little too much camber on the front for a streeter.
  8. Be more clear. Light is now on when it wasn't previously, or light now does not come on when it is supposed to (ie, when you put the ignition on before cranking).
  9. GTSBoy

    Normal diff oil. No need for LSD oil because there are no friction surfaces in there.
  10. R35s already look like kid's toys. So putting a bunch of tupperware onto them is unlikely to make them worse looking. In the case of this kit, I actually think it's very successful. Bolt on stuff like that is super "race"....but you do have to go the whole hog and make the car actually be a race car. Not a halfway riced up streeter.
  11. Yuh, so dry isn't dry, because it is actually pre-wet. You just don't add any more resin as you lay it up. Watch Superfactories/Koensigeggeggeggegg Youtube videos etc etc to see how it's done.
  12. Um, start probing at the tail lights and work your way back along that wire until you find power. The break is thus located. Probably screwed over by the sub installed by dropping something heavy somewhere.
  13. GTSBoy

    Bigger numbers means more fuel.