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GTSBoy last won the day on April 8

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About GTSBoy

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  1. IACV dirty/stuck open. AAC stuck open. Huge vacuum leak. Throttle stop poorly adjusted. Auto that is stuck in 3rd will also offer even less engine braking than you'd get if it was working properly, which won't help.
  2. GTSBoy

    4wd/2wd switch

    But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it. It is also reasonable to expect that the m35 ATESSA computer would be smart enough to safely bleed off the pre-load pressure in the case of a fault. Thus, it would be "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". Pulling the relay, if it triggers a fault that results in the above message, would probably be fine, if that's all it did. But if it also disables other systems on the car then it's probably not a great idea. Beyond that, I don't actually know, I'm merely throwing up some thinking material.
  3. Some of those valves are open. Ergo the cam is installed.
  4. Can only be true if the cam is not installed.
  5. HEIC file not all that openable. Try JPG or PNG or something. f**king phones! I'm not sure you understand what is supposed to happen at TDC. Only #1 and #6 will be at TDC (when you're on the TDC mark on the crank pulley). One will be closed valve, because ignition point, the other will have the valves both open, because it is the overlap period between exhaust and intake, where the ex valve is very nearly closed, and the intake valve is opening. They will be nearly closed, but they will not be closed. The other cylinders will be all over the place. Some valves will be closed, some will be open, reflecting the fact that one is on power stroke, one is on intake, one is on exhaust, and one or more are partway between (ie the ones at BDC are either at end of intake stroke or at end of power stroke).
  6. OMG! The f**king answers were right here in this thread and you actually found it, opened it, read it and still asked the question.
  7. nd I've just noticed that this was posted in "Suspension, Braking and Tyres". FFS!
  8. And as if there is going to be published, accurate info on intercooler pipe friction factors. If this is for an engineering degree, this is the point where you learn that you are not handed everything you need and you have to estimate based on what you can find and what you think can be safely assumed from other literature. And then you present your error bars on those numbers and they add up to make the final prediction +/-50%.
  9. Are you kidding? I have personally read at least a thousand time on here that the R34 NAs, with the exception of the GTV, all have the same lower damper mounts (eyelets) as the R33 GTST, and the R34 GT-T have the same type as GTRs (fork).
  10. Yes, given the range of physical adjustment available at the CAS. Retarded means "Very f**king Retarded" when it comes to anti-lag. Which is actually a good description of it also.
  11. There's already about a thousand threads on these forums asking the same question. Search.
  12. Un possible. The second quote is why you do not do what you plan in the 1st quote. Don't f**k with the timing blind. Just don't. As to the 15° for manual and 20° for auto. I know that to be true for RB20. I don't know it to be true for 25s, but it could well be. The numbers are freely findable in the manual though...... You CANNOT see the real timing at the ECU. That's why timing lights exist.
  13. In Australia we generally go straight to ACL bearings. We don't fall for the brand name bullshit as often as the Yanks do.
  14. Not real good on R32. 5 is about the most they will swallow without causing issues. The front upper arms HATE even that much caster. The front upper arm bushes will be the leading candidate (if the changed bushings mentioned were in the lower arms). It is a very good idea to consider f**king off the stock upper arms and replacing with GK-Tech. They are a lot of work to live with, but they are f**king excellent.
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