GTSBoy

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GTSBoy last won the day on June 10

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About GTSBoy

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  1. GTSBoy

    How do you make a PFC do flex?
  2. Supertech are the only other one I can think of as I'm running out the office door.
  3. Intake valves are larger than exhaust valves. At this point.....surely it would be wise to look at aftermarket suppliers, rather than trying to get stockers. Look at Ferrea and all the other good valve suppliers.
  4. No, I meant stock gasket with a spray, and suck it & see. If that doesn't work, then you're going to have to pull it all apart. But if it does work, you're no worse off, in fact a lot better off than you are now.
  5. Thats' about your only option.
  6. For completeness, I had my traction arms out the other day. They have adjustable bushes in them, so the stock length is a guesstimate. But I'd say that at zero adjustment the length is 210mm. At full adjust (as they were on my car) they are 213-214.
  7. GTSBoy

    Yes, you tune Nistune on a laptop. Have to buy a license. So Nistune will end up costing more. But it's not 1996 any more. Piggybacks are not cool.
  8. GTSBoy

    What is it about Nistune that you can't adjust yourself?
  9. GTSBoy

    Nistune would be smarter than any piggyback crap. The NA ECU should be able to do what you need - doesn't matter that it was auto. Nistune will actually help you to get rid of codes that the ECU will probably throw from not having the auto's TCU on-line. If you have to buy injectors, don't buy stock DET injectors. Buy some brand new Bosch injectors (or similar) from Scotty (or similar). Any big pump will do. The 255 is reasonable, but there are newer Walbros that better suit E85, for some future proofing. If you do use Nistune, grab a Z32 AFM, or an R35 blade AFM and fit that instead. No point hamstringing yourself with the NA RB25 AFM. And upgrade the brakes. And fit an LSD.
  10. GTSBoy

    Mental as in rust below the side windows is not a good thing. It has started under the window's seal and spread. There will probably also be rust on the other side of the panel. Take the rear trim out and inspect. You may be better off doing almost anything else with the car rather than spend on rust repairs there.
  11. GTSBoy

    Hi, Good news. FYI, current is measured in just Amps (or milliAmps). An Amp-hour is a measure of battery capacity, being the product of a current and a length of time. You just need to talk about Amps. And for measuring big currents, you need a clamp meter. Gets the meter out of the circuit and infers the current by electromagnetism. Worth the cost at Jaycar.
  12. GTSBoy

    Download the R34 manual and follow the wiring diagram. The most likely thing though is that some arsehat will have strapped some permanently powered device onto that supply, so it won't be on the diagram.
  13. GTSBoy

    Cardogawanker may be clickbait....but realistically, he's right about not buying Holden. Holden is dead. Why would you voluntarily buy something that will become an unsupported orphan? And it's not as if the new Commode has anything to offer over the zillion other FWD pussboxes in the same segment. In fact, it is blandest amongst the bland. VF, is another story. High point at the tail end of a sad story.
  14. GTSBoy

    All the above is valid. Easiest 1st step is to simply rotate all the fuses in their clips in the fuse box, in case there's some corrrosion causing a poor connection. I have had to do that more than once to clear weird intermittent elec gremlins.
  15. GTSBoy

    I had to grease all the rod ends on both sides. This is explicitly against their advice...but we all know that people who really use rod ends on race cars keep them lubed. The sphericals in the main body on the other side of the car are still moving freely enough at this stage. It's about 8 months now, but when the bearings got tight enough to upset me was a couple months ago. Only about 4000km of use up to that point, I think. I can't fault their service.