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GTSBoy last won the day on November 27

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About GTSBoy

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    Rank: RB26DE

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  1. Do you know that that offset will fit? And what is the gearing (and therefore speedo) change from such high profile tyres on such large diameter rims, compared to stock?
  2. No.....go back and read what I said. I find it very difficult to believe that your results are consistent. Try again before making any decisions. Also, a leakdown test is more informative than simple compression testing.
  3. Bypass knock sensor with (500k resistor - I think. Look it up, it's findable). If the knock sensor is crook and it's running on the knock map, it will feel doughy. This should make it feel better. Then you just buy a new one.
  4. No. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive it under load. This is proper diagnosis, not half-baled diagnosis. If the pressure doesn't do what it is supposed to do, then you blame the pump. Your reg is very unlikely to be crook.
  5. R32 ECU diagnostic can be triggered with a screwdriver or a paper clip. Read all about it. It will be a boost leak, or a dying fuel pump as #1 suspects. After that, it is absolutely everything else in the engine bay. all the usual suspects. read all about it.
  6. Now you shouldn't trust your technique. There's no way that it would have been ~110 before with a dud tester and now gone down to 90.
  7. Trusting a never-used-before-no-comparative-reference compression tester to give you numerically accurate values is a strong move. See above advice.
  8. GTSBoy

    First RB

    That's a hard no. Unless the PFC is tuned for exactly the same setup you have (and, how many other people would you expect to put a PFC on a stock motor???), it will not run it properly. Will need a tune. Does not need additional sensors - it is, by definition, a plug in replacement ECU. But not a "plug in a secondhand tuned for something else" replacement. It will not be useful for a Neo. No, this is clearly an electrical problem. You will have one of the thousand possible things that can go wrong naturally (from shit breaking, wearing out, vibrating loose, etc) or from uncle f**kthumbs who played with the wiring before. Break out the wiring diagrams and your multimeter and go fault find it and fix it. And no, none of us will be able to guess how and why it is doing it.
  9. You're not going to wear out the thrust in that time with that usage. It was probably put back together without even checking it.
  10. They make diagnostic code readers for a reason.
  11. Welcome Brian, eh. White 17" Enkei RPF1s. You'll have to paint them white though. I like original R32 GTR wheels, but they do look a little small these days, and they are too dark for a gunmetal car. I have black RPF1s on a white 32. The colour of your car makes it possible to throw CF pieces on without it looking odd. Nismo front and rear top lips. Front chin lip. Whole rear wing if you're felling baller. Sideskirts if you're going crazy. MCA coilovers if you're willing to buy from Oz. Otherwise whatever the equivalent top end stuff from your side of the pond. 324mm Brembos, or 330mm Stoptech or similar. Helical diffs front and rear. Oh, and I forgot ATESSA controller. Street weapon.
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