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GTSBoy last won the day on February 12

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About GTSBoy

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  1. They're just a little bit cheap and nasty. Not long life fabric, that sort of thing. They do meet ADRs though, so they're acceptable.
  2. Set the rev limiter to a much lower value (like 1000 rpm less) and hit it again. See if it shits itself the same.
  3. Well it all comes down to how many extra/unusual things you want to do. The ECU, any ECU, only has so many pins available for direct connection stuff. So if you want to have 2x O2 sensors and multiple this and some of that and PID control of a cam position or two, you will at some point have to shunt some of it off to other interface boxes and connect that via serial comms. If you only want to do one of those things, then, yeah, straight off the ECU shouldn't be a problem.
  4. Intercooler volume has far less influence on lag than you'd think. When the turbo comes on boost it is making air flow at a massive number compared to the volume of the intercooler (and all the rest of the pipework). It's really not an influence on lag at all, unless stupidly big. The main effect is on throttle response when off boost. As to the exhaust - high backpressure after the turbine leads to high pressure in the ex manifold which doesn't help the det situation. If you have at least semi-decent dumps with no cat, then you're probably alright. But if any muffler has a size reduction in it (like a lot of Jap ones do) then that won't help and would be better if it was not there.
  5. Yes, except that R34 is pull clutch. Internally, I think the differences are details like synchro and selector parts having design changes.
  6. Do Pootrols have load sensing prop valves at the rear axle?
  7. Hi Richard, My 2c is that seeing as I have never seen an external proportioning valve on a Nissan of the R3x era....then you'd expect all the BM44/50/57 type MCs to have prop valves inside. As to how to remove it so that the MC keeps working......dunno. I have heard tales of people removing the prop valve and having the pedal go to the floor because removing it makes the back half not work properly. Dunno if there was a better way for such people to do it than what they did, and I've not played with it myself. Have a look at this thread off SAU here, for some clues (not clues that answer all your questions, but clues nonetheless)
  8. Bigger rear housing required, especially if you're going E85 and can have that little bit of extra timing.
  9. You can't put aftermarket rails on the factory seats real easy though, so if you need to change the seating, you're changing all of it. As to old car vs. new car......pick something electric/electronic on the car that will annoy the crap out of you when it fails and you can't get another one and if you can it's in the same boat because they're all the same age and all just about to fail. Power window control box, climate control, ABS controller, etc etc. All these things and more are more likely to drop dead on the older car and because it's a rarer car, less replacements available. The Commonwhore might be a big ugly bogan-mobile, but parts will always be that much easier. So there is something to the argument of not choosing the twice as old car. I have an R32. When I actuate the RHS power window, the passenger's door locks. Has for years. There's an electrical gremlin. I'm too scared to go looking for it. While it all still works it's OK. But it could burn the car to the ground any day!
  10. You perhaps need to explain what you mean by "hit the redline" and "turns off". Does it hit your rev limiter and stall while the throttle is still open? Or does it stop after you close the throttle for a gear change? If the former, then god knows. If the's reversion. Put the recirc back on it or change to an R35 style AFM
  11. Entrained air is not dissolved air. The fraction of any entrained air that will actually dissolve into engine oil at the sorts of pressures we're talking about here is what? 1%? 2%? So even if it was an unrealistic number like 10%, that still leaves 90% of any entrained oil staying as entrained bubbles, not dissolved into the oil and therefore not affected by any attempt to use an ever so slightly larger restrictor orifice to ever so marginally increase the static pressure in the length of the orifice to ever so slightly affect the tiny amount of air that may or may not spontaneously spring out of the oil. Talk about finding a way to confuse the conversation. I hereby re-inforce my earlier statement that I cannot believe that OEM engineers would choose to increase the diameter of an oil flow restrictor by 0.25mm or any similar amount just for that purpose. I would strongly suggest that all your palaver about sump design being important for preventing air entrainment into the oil is about the sump and the oiling system overall. Prevention being more important than the (imagined) cure.
  12. The high fuel consumption is a function of large vehicle mass, small engine, brickwall aerodynamics and Nissan's rich mixtures under load. I would suggest that if you're fixated on the old Stagea shape then one with a Neo25 in it would be smarter than the 260RS. The GTR motor is not the best match for the higher weight of the Stag.
  13. Do you seriously maintain that Nissan engineers calculated the size of the restrictors in the head oil supply to expressly keep dissolved gases in the liquid? Really? That's bizarre. Show me an SAE paper where that has been proposed as a mechanism to counter this (I think non-existent) problem.
  14. Legroom would have to be tragic. I am 6'5" with long legs rather than long body and I drive an R32 coupe. Stageas are an odd thing. I tend to think that the distribution of quality of them out there will be very bimodal. There will be very good ones, very bad ones, and not too many in between. Find one that's been owned in Oz by one person for a long time and looked after and you will likely get the best outcome. If you buy one that's been through 5 owners, it will be full of bodgy shit mods and mysterious service/repairs.