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GTSBoy last won the day on March 25

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About GTSBoy

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  1. GTSBoy

    It will be hella lean and way too advanced on 98 at any throttle above 15%.
  2. GTSBoy

    They're VCT compatible. They're baby cams.
  3. How would the rings not get bedded? It's easy to glaze the bores if you don't know what you're doing. You have to get an engine up and running very quickly, then have at least a rough enough tune in it to be able to run it at varying revs and load for the first XX minutes. If you let it sit and idle, like a lot of people have done, then you will glaze the bores and never get the rings to bed in. From there it is low comp and oil consumption to eternity. The fix back in the days of rebuilding red motors was a spoonful of Bon-Ami sprinkled down the carby. Ahh. The good old days.
  4. Rings never got bedded is most likely reason.
  5. GTSBoy

    You'd probably be hard pressed to see the difference between them even on a dyno. The Kelfords are ever so slightly better for the street, the Camtech possibly ever so slightly better for drag.
  6. GTSBoy

    And one more follow up. I still had a lot of noise in the front LHS. This had previously only ever occurred when the old poly bushes were dry and when the rod ends in the GKTechs were buggered (as described above). I bought a bunch of new rod ends and changed them all out. Still noisy. So many rod ends on a single arm that it is hard to be 100% sure about where the noise is coming from, so I bit the bullet and bought a set of the UAS arms (the old centre pivot ones that they came up with >10 years ago), on a group buy advertised on here to get a batch made up. Still noisy. The noise must be coming from somewhere else in the LHS suspension. Could be the upright's upper bearing, as that is a likely candidate. But really it could also be in the rod end on the front of the caster rod, or in the lower control arm bush, ball joint, ARB link (which are sufficiently new that it shouldn't be them) or even somewhere unexpected like the crossmember attachment to the chassis. May have to do a little extra swappsies and maybe invest in some chassis ears. Anyway, the moral of the story is that I still think the GKTech arms are a good thing and they don't have as much trouble with generating clinking noises as I had thought they did. Subject to my greasing efforts, anyway.
  7. You can point to point them from the terminals on the TPS to the terminals on the ECU with a multimeter. The pins are identified on that drawing (when looking at the plug) and you can see if it is wired correctly in about 5 minutes.
  8. I can guarantee you that an ECU reset will not magically make the ECU able to deal with a bypass leaking air around the AFM. It just won't. The maths inside the ECU is basically this; Volts read at the AFM goes into x axis of lookup curve for the AFM used on the car. This gives a raw load value out to the ECU to carry on with. The ECU then takes that raw load number and the current rpm and works out the specific load value, which in Nissan ECU speak is called the TP value. The TP value is then used to directly lookup the fuel and ignition maps. The ECU really and truly thinks that the load is the TP value. If the AFM is reading low because you have created a leak around it, then the TP value will be low and the ECU will be looking at a column to the left of teh real engine operating point and you could very easily put in completely the wrong amount of fuel and the wrong timing and it could be lean and too advanced and ping itself to death. Not cool. Absolute fact. Cannot argue with it. The only thing that the ECU can do is to use the short and long term fuel trims (learnt from the O2 sensor) to counteract the fact that the mixtures will be wrong and make corrections to the mixtures. These corrections are not cell for cell across the whole maps either. They are at much lower resolution than the real maps, and so cannot give you correction that will be able to deal with map regions that end up lean AND map regions that end up rich. There is no fixing the timing problem. The ECU simply cannot do anything about it. And worse, the ECU cannot do anything to really even fix incorrect mixtures when it is running open loop, because it runs direct from the fuel map without much input from the STFT and LTFT. And when you're on high load open loop is when you're most likely to blow the engine up. The only way you can create a bypass around the AFM to extend the range of the AFM is to then retune the ECU maps to take the new reading into account.
  9. Have you downloaded the R34 service manual, which has the wiring diagrams? You can get it from your uncle Torrence. I don't have them here on the work computer, so would have to wait until tonight. Fastest way is to answer your own question.
  10. GTSBoy

    Given the (lack of) reliability of aftermarket/consumer RFID bullshit, I'd be highly unlikely to consider it on a car. Have the thing simply stop on you while you drive (assuming it is in the ignition as well as the starter circuit)? No thanks. A conventional immobiliser with radio remote would/should be sufficient. Basically all your asking for is a conventional immobiliser with the trigger simply being RFID anyway. You'd definitely be better off buying a real immobilise and stitching your RFID receiver onto it (in place of the usual radio remote) than trying to build the immobiliser yourself anyway.
  11. GTSBoy

    Compression rings and oil control rings are 2 separate parts. Possible to have rooted oil control rings while still having reasonable compression. And.....165 psi is f**king high, not normal, indicating either, wet cylinder walls or a compression gauge that can't be trusted.
  12. It's gunna take 3 or 4 hours. How much depends on the hourly rate tho'.
  13. GTSBoy

    Yeah, that's why I didn't use a thread necro meme.