GTSBoy

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GTSBoy last won the day on January 12

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About GTSBoy

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  1. GTSBoy

    There's.... a.... whole.... thread.
  2. GTSBoy

    Relays are easy. You provide a dedicated (and fused) power supply cable to the relay (onto one side of the switched contact in the relay), with fat enough wiring to handle all the current that the load will use (which is one, or all 4 headlights, depending on what you choose to do). You use the original wiring that used to power the load to switch the relay. That generally means cutting that wire and placing the load side of it onto the switched contact of the relay and the incoming side of it onto the coil trigger of the relay. Provide an earth for the coil (so the original wire will run the coil instead of the load). When you turn the circuit on, the circuit simply makes the relay run instead of the original load, and the relay now supplies power from the new feed to the load. The current required through the old original wiring (to run the relay's coil) is massively less than the original load's current draw. The relay will have better contacts in it than the old switch, so should last for many years (and is easily replaceable, should it ever start playing up). The new fat power supply puts max volts onto your headlights, getting you the most light you can out of the bulbs. Win. The only time relays in headlights can be tricky is when there are complicated changeovers between high and low beam. Not really an issue in old Skylines though. As I said, I simply put one relay directly behind each globe, so they are all switched on by their original wiring, but powered from a separate feed to each headlight. Each relay has it's own fuse in it to handle the load, and there is a master fuse in the main fusebox where the headlight power is found anyway.
  3. GTSBoy

    Did you bypass the coolant around it? Does he live in a cold enough area that this will cause grumpy cold start running?
  4. ah.....the "P" word. Useless imbiciles. I stopped considering them as an option in the 1980s.
  5. GTSBoy

    I have 4 relays. One behind each bulb. f**king easy to install them that way - no real re-wiring required except running power out to them.
  6. GTSBoy

    You're going to need heat shielding between the two (exhaust and turbo outlet). Those o-rings will be nitrile, buna or something similar. You can google up their temperature limits, but I think you can take it for granted that with a black surface absorbing radiation of a f**king hot manifold, they will get damn hot. I would wrap the clamp in fibre insulation (think thin kaowool blanket) and then some reflective tape, and try to get a sheetmetal radiation shield layer in between that and the manifold with an air gap either side.
  7. There is a complete Neo for sale on this forum right now for ~$2.5k. Barras are f**king enormous and heavy. Great if you want a drag car. Shithouse if you want a normal car that still handles. Any rebuild should not be to factory spec. Should be decent rods and pistons at the very least.
  8. GTSBoy

    Check alternator function.
  9. Yuh, it's hard to believe that anyone could think that anything so cheap and nasty could be built anywhere other than ChinaBay.
  10. That'd be 2nd hand though, not new yeah? No point in comparing apples with chimpanzees. The desirable Nismo diffs are up around $1800 new.
  11. GTSBoy

    39654+A holds the CV on the shaft. The big one holds the CV together (I think).
  12. What sort of dumb shit statement is that? I wrote, "4 out of every 6 are usually f**ked in the box."
  13. Ugly AF. HKS not known for ugly in the same way that Veilside are, but also not known for elegance in the same way that Nismo are. This one is verging on Veilside ugly. This one is verging on VL Commodore levels of strap on Tupperware stupidity. Would not bang now, nor would ever have frothed over it 25 years ago.