• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


GTSBoy last won the day on August 5

GTSBoy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,056 Excellent

About GTSBoy

  • Rank
    Rank: RB30ET
  1. The auto one will NOT fit the manual box. That much for certain.
  2. I wouldn't do it. The RB20DET box is reasonably strong, but nowhere near strong enough to handle the torque of a 25DET. I killed an RB20 manual box with just modest power on an RB20, around 190 rwkW. Not thrashed, just wore out the input shaft bearing. Too much torque, and over a not very long time. The other thing is that the speedo senders are almost certainly different. You may just be lucky and the NA R34 electronic sender will fit the RB20 box. Maybe. The boxes might be the same, but the speedo sender/cable drive part of it might be different. I put an RB25DE manual into my R32 after I killed the original 20DET box and it accepted the R32 cable drive. Maybe just maybe the R33&34 NA manual boxes are all cable drive (although I can't imagine why they would be).
  3. I wouldn't remove the restrictor on that turbo. I would not fit the turbo to the car.
  4. Oh. For. f**k's. Sake. No f**king restrictor. No f**king kink in the drain hose. Full flow oil pressure for journal bearing turbos. Black. And. White.
  5. You _may_ be able to tune all of that effect out, or you may not. It depends on whether the turbo can actually make that much boost in the lower gears. If it can, then your boost controller will be able to use the boost-speed relationship to bleed more off at lower speeds. And yes, the very definition of "gated boost control" is better met by EBCs than by a manual bleeder.
  6. And the answer is "No". It won't kill the turbo. Other things may suffer, but not the turbo.
  7. Doesn't really make any difference to throttle response under load, and in fact a torqueless lump like an RB20 could benefit from the extra inertia under quite a few circumstances. But where you do really notice it is in heel-toe throttle blips. I've never had a manual Skyline without a lightened flywheel. When I converted from auto I went straight to a lighter one. But it was only ~1kg less than stock (which is ~9kg), so not so different really. The really light ones are much lighter and probably not the wisest for the street, but great for a race car.
  8. Ever heard of Photof**ket?
  9. Well, yes. I built a steel intake for my car 15 years ago's still good. Haven't spent any more money on that since the initial spend. Some other guys have f**ked about with jamming bits of pipe inside the factory elbow, then bought a silicone one, then changed their turbo 6 times for random eBay rubbish, then eventually, finally, they did it the right way and realised what they should have done the first time. We will all tell you the same "lesson". If you worry about the (nearly non-existent) problem that having a 2" metal pipe feeding your 3" turbo inlet and don't worry about how bad it is when a soft intake pipe sucks shut (think - high vacuum in front of the compressor - what does it do for shaft movement?) then you're doing one thing wrong. If you think that you're saving money by doing it the cheap way now, then you're doing that wrong too. Because a little down the track you're going to be pissed off when it drives as slow and as painful as buggery because the compressor is starving for air, and the cheap China spec turbo's thrust bearings have given up from being ground into the end of the CHRA, and you will spend all the money again. All of which could be avoided.
  10. The poor man pays twice. Do things right the first time and save the regrets.
  11. Turn it upside down. (make sure that there's a spark plug and the valves in one chamber but without springs) Make it level. Coat the back of the valves in one chamber with vaseline. Put a light smear of vaseline around the head face around that chamber. Place a sheet of clear perspex/acrylic with a 10mm hole in the middle of it over the chamber. Set up the burette in a retort stand over the hole in the acrylic sheet. Fill burette with water. Titrate water into the chamber until it just fills the chamber, leaving no bubbles against the acrylic sheet. May have to wiggle the head a little to encourage the bubbles to come to the hole in the centre. Do not fill until the hole in the centre is full. Fill until the meniscus of the water is just into the bottom of the hole. The chamber volume will be more than the capacity of a 50cc burette. So run 50cc in, then refill the burette and run the rest in. Add the total volume. If you do not have a burette and can get hold of some decently accurate syringes, you can use those. Not as precise as using a burette. When you have the total volume of water that went into the chamber, you can calculate the chamber height difference required to give you this answer instead of the well know "stock" chamber volume for the head in question. Get the diameter of the chamber at the head face and calculate the cross sectional area. If the chamber is not round, then you will have to work out the cross sectional area via other means. Putting ink onto the head face and making a print of the chamber could be the first step that would allow yo to use precise scales or a scanner and some software or any of a range of other techniques to get the cross sectional area. The cross sectional area, multiplied by a small vertical distance, will give you a volume equal to the missing chamber volume. This might be as little as 0.1mm or it might be 1mm, or any other number. Either do it via trial and error or rearrange the equations to solve for the height difference exactly.
  12. Or there's one of the many different ways to get OE Nissan stuff from overseas. Amayama for example.
  13. Per all the above. The boost source for boost control is off the turbo outlet. The place where boost control happens is at the actuator. Hence the simplest way to make that happen is to connect one to the other. The boost signal then pushes the actuator to open the wastegate. But it offers no adjustability. So the way to obtain that is to take the signal from the source, bleed some of it off and pass the reduced signal to the actuator. Presto, now the actuator sees a lower boost than the engine sees and you can happily run higher boost than the actuator is sprung for. But, and this is a very important but, you cannot decrease boost below what the wastegate actuator is sprung for. If you have a 14 psi spring in there now, then 14 is the minimum. Hence all my cautions about not tuning etc etc in earlier posts. And to go back to the topic of the inlet elbow, you should never use soft silicone bends there. Call Scotty, buy whatever he makes. It doesn't matter what it costs, it is the only reasonable way for you to achieve your goal (of getting it all fitted together and running).
  14. Um.....pretty much any non-stock turbo replacement ends up with a fabricated steel turbo inlet pipe. You shouldn't even use the stock rubber inlet elbow on stock turbos because they suck closed under high load! You're going to need something made. If you were in Melbourne it would be trivial. Just point you at Scotty. Could still do that. Just get him to send you one. As to the wastegate. No, the length of the rod just adjusts the pre-load, which doesn't affect max boost so much as prevents creep. You can only adjust boost on an internal gat's actuator if that actuator has an obvious adjustment on it (a screw on the end of the can, like you'd expect to see on an external gate's actuator). If you want to adjust boost you have to use a bleeder or an electronic boost controller (which is just a glorified bleeder, really). You can't turn the boost down. You can only turn it up (from whatever the actuator's spring will give you).