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GTSBoy last won the day on March 9

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About GTSBoy

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    Rank: RB30ET
  1. Shafts are piss easy. Fall out from the inside. Hubs/splines are obviously much more trouble. You need to dismantle all this to find out what is wrong with it before you go buying stuff though.
  2. Could be. The splines on the end of the shaft or in the hub are also possible. Just about all of that stuff is getting sloppy in these old jallopies now.
  3. Go right ahead. I'm fairly confident I could outrun one on foot across an intersection.
  4. Changing plugs/gaps will not affect tune. Stumble on idle is usually a vacuum leak.
  5. No. A 1957 VW beetle would be faster.
  6. It seems like most of your cylinders are OK and a couple are little softer. There's a million things that could cause those differences.
  7. It's not rocket surgery. Work it out yourself. The PS circuit is dead simple. There are 3-4 things in it (depending whether you put the cooler into the return or not). Just hook them up. Following a DIY that does not work for your gear is a fool's errand.
  8. Fuel pump. AFM. FPR. Dirty injector. Blocked fuel filter. These are the first things to check. Same as in the 500000000000 other threads that start this way.
  9. How are you measuring the voltage? DMM? If so, then don't. You need an analog multimeter or a scope of some sort. DMMs can't see that sort of PWM signal. They're too slow.
  10. Bulb. I shall also refrain from saying passively aggressive nasty things. But really, this should be obvious. Have you even opened the bonnet to see? Dammit, I failed at avoiding saying passively aggressive things. Oh well.
  11. Um. What? The HICAS pressure line is completely separate from the power steering. When I did exactly what you're doing (but with a Neo), I simply removed everything to do with HICAS (the thing on the frame rail is a pair of solenoid valves, not a pump). With everything HICAS removed, the power steering pump simply connects to the rack via the original line (adapted at the pump end owing to being a different pump) and the return from the rack goes where it always did. That's it. And don't loop the cooler. Plumb it into the return line. You need the cooler.
  12. All the volts.
  13. I'd suggest a sticky piston on the LHF caliper.
  14. PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33. It is VERY old tech now though. If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better. Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install. Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though. Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car. Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options. It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.