GTSBoy

Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!

Well, of course there's something wrong with the suspension. It was like that when it came out of the factory. Nissan wanted it to ride at least 50mm higher than most of us. They wanted it to be comfortable enough that the press and user reviews didn't complain about fillings being knocked out of teeth. The marketing people wanted to be able to talk about their fantastic new 4WS system (even if it was a pointless exercise, ha! pointless! Do you see what I did there? no? oh well. too bad). There weren't any semi-slicks or semi-semi-slicks or 18" wheels. Laser pointers didn't exist, so you couldn't easily build a bump steer gauge. There wasn't any better technology for suspension bushes than squishy shit in a condom. The list goes on.

don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.

You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.

Two layers of race tape on the brake duct. One piece of split firesleeve, silicone hose or something similar (and 2x cable ties) on the brake hose. Boost off into the sunset and stop caring about it. Until the inspection 6 months later, that is.

Swaybars go on trailers.

Yeah, I presumed that the pic was of some other car, because of the F. Ikeya arms.

I'm going to have to call shenanigans on the 6000 miles. There haven't been any R34s with 10000km on the ODO since the mid 2000s. Photos of the pedal rubbers, seats, carpets, etc required to even consider the possibility. At that many miles the underside should look almost completely new. The movement of the gear stick is likely to be 100% normal. As Duncan said, the differences from an auto may be surprising. It is a mechanical thing, not an electro-hydraulic isolation device.

Coilovers aren't even the first step. Bushes, subframe position and alignment, HICAS elimination, adjustable upper arms and traction arms in order to dial out understeer. All these things need/deserve attention first. ARBs (There's no such thing as a swaybar. Please, everybody, stop calling them that) are useful if you want to limit spring stiffness. Otherwise you can control body roll with springs. Spring and damper rates are a function of road surface, speed and usage. There is no solution that works for all cases.

Define "nothing". Is the starter spinning but not the engine? Engine turning but not firing? If the engine is turning but not firing, then you are missing either fuel or spark. You need to find whichever has gone missing.

I think he's just happy that the crank doesn't have to come out of the engine in order to have a good (read reliable) oil pump.

Meh, just saw the Nissan badge on the plenum on the thumbnail and presumed it wasn't as nasty a fake up as the paintjob.

Except for the aero/speedflow adapter option, which is essentially the same thing without the bending and flaring.

There is absolutely no way to tell. What we can tell you is that it is an RB. It has a single, low mounted turbo, so it would seem likely that it is an R20 or 25, but it has RB26 inlet side and valve covers. As it is clearly a frankenstein, it could be absolutely anything. It is unlikely to be good, unless the person responsible for the painting was not also responsible for the engine. That bracket is not a bracket and it is not broken. It is the top end of the suspension upright, connected to the outer end of the front upper control arm. It is your suspension. Take the wheel off and look at it.

Hot plugs not being a good idea in a massively boosted engine?