Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

4 Neutral

About Strexx

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R32 GTS-T

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks but I can assure you I never hit 180 kmh or close to it - Might have to give it another belting to see when it triggers
  2. I'd say it would make a noise post 120kph never felt it was revving high Trel, if it is a speed alarm how do you adjust this?
  3. Sorry don't get that - You think it was a warning of sorts?
  4. I know you may be thinking WTF? But today was the first opportunity I got to push the R32 a bit hard and the RB20 quite comfortably exceeded the speed limit. What I noticed was not that it had so much more to give but the car made a beeping or chiming sound - What is this noise? Was it a warning, a speed limiter and if so how can you adjust it or turn it on/off. It only made the chiming at the top end and then it would disappear on normal driving.. Any ideas?
  5. Just seeking some advice - the internal trim around my rear quarter windows keeps coming loose - I have tried contact adhesive, contact gel, waiting for both sides to remain tacky - have tried wedging plastic pieces into the edge to hold them in place as the glue dries but they continue to peel back due to the heat & sun. Has anybody found a product or a way to stick the trim material down for good? See photos
  6. Hi guys on this rubber hose issue - Can I simply replace the hose with a rubber house equivalent cut to length, or do I need some genuine moulded parts?
  7. Guys thanks for the advice - I think I found a mechanic in Seven Hills who's given me the confidence to do the job... Thanks again
  8. Hi All, As I have no service history on my stock auto R32 GTST so am considering replacing the timing belt - As I have no service history, (well I spoke to the last mechanic who put a sticker on the car and he only did a service on it and although I asked for a price for a new timing belt - he never corrected me to tell me it was replaced) - I was thinking for my own peace of mind that I probably should replace it - at least it gives me confidence knowing that it was done at a certain date, but here's the thing: What if I don't replace it and it breaks, will it totally stuff up the engine? - What's the definition of 'stuff up'? Should I even bother replacing it? Apart from obvious wear - What should I look for to see if its on the way out - or am I just wasting my money How hard is it to replace the belt, myself (I saw some DIY instructions on the forum) When I priced the cost via a mechanic or three to replaced the belt, they suggested that they do the full kit - I assume this includes: Belt, Water Pump, thermostat, crankshaft & camshaft seals, idler & tensioner bearings. The cost for this works varies between $1100 - $2095 !! I'd be keen to hear your thoughts... Also - any recommendations for a local mechanic in the Parramatta - Hornsby area. Cheers
  9. Sounds like what used to happen on my VW Beetle - Thanks. Where are these located towards the tank?
  10. So I've noticed that there is a distinct petrol smell coming from the car - not that I have noticed a loss in fuel as I'm not driving it daily and I have not had it on the road long enough to know if it leaks but it does seem to consume a bit, but I thought I'd start off asking you guys of any known issues with petrol leaks or odors that are likely with an R32.. Where should I start looking? Are the fuel lines all steel or are there rubber pipes for joins - I assume that these may have perished - Could be the cause? Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Thanks all - Yep seems that I have a task ahead of me - Nevertheless the I got a Blueslip last week (Without a 24 pack) - I guess the trickiest option will be to get it under it with enough space to grind/weld - Need a hoist!! But I've completed two years at TAFE doing metal forming so have a bit of an idea of how to get there - Just don't have the tooling. With regards to rust most of it seems to be surface rust not horrid corrosion - Ideally I'd like to try and pull out the dents first - Surely if I can get it up enough - I could make a rig with thread bar/Unistrut that could ease out some of the divets but thinking that a cut n weld replacements in is the best option. I found a place in Japan where the replacement rails are about $100 a piece. Whilst I'm at it what is the best product to use on the under body as a deadener sealer? BTW the Datto works look great!
  12. So all four points where it would be obvious to jack up my R32 GTST have bent/crushed chassis rails (See photos - one from each point) So has the car been jacked up from the wrong point? Would you usually jack up the the car from the chassis rail in front of each wheel? Where is the recommended position to jack up the car from both back & front? I have been jacking up the rear as per the last photo. Next question is can this ever be repaired, I would only assume that some sort of steel plate could be welded across the damaged area. Lastly - I had a wheel alignment completed and the mechanic told me that the chassis rails were all bent - I hope he meant compressed/squashed but he was not chatty so I don't know if he meant that this would affect the wheel alignment - Does the damaged rails pose any other concerns?
  • Create New...