Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been havi a problem in this hot weather with my R33 when I am in a line up or somewhere that I'm not movin long distances at a time. It's fine when I first pull up after a decent drive time. but when I'm creepin forway and raise the rev's then take my foot of the accelorator and onto the clutch the revs drop right off for a sec and sometimes even stalls.

Is this because my car is takin in hot air from the engine bay, Therfor do i need a heat sheild around the pod filter or may it be something else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150411-stallin/
Share on other sites

more likely to do with the tune at idle . some times just needs to be looked at on a dyno so I wouldnt worry about it to much until you are due for a tune etc. If it really gets anoying then a dyno would be a must.

when I had my r33gtst it had a similar problem and mark {tilbrook's}fixed it in a couple of seconds on the dyno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150411-stallin/#findComment-2801853
Share on other sites

hey its a common problem with 33's mainly its the AAC valve that gets blocked

Located at the end of your plenum fairly easy job to do

also it can be your throttle butterfly builds up with carbon so give that a clean too

you will be surprised that all it is

mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/150411-stallin/#findComment-2802714
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
×
×
  • Create New...