Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Ive been having a really annoying problem lately with my brakes, they squeak CONSTANTLY I mean like even when their not in use the rear left squeaks as im driving along not using the brakes at all it might stop for 20 secs here and their but its very rare. I changed the pads to brand new ones and the problem was still their so I took it to the brake place and they said my discs needed machining so I got all the discs machined and all new brake pads all round. Drove out of the workshop all was fine for about 3kms and I was enjoying being able to drive without the ear piercing sound of the brakes squeeling constantly but then all of a sudden the noise came back and its been doing it constantly just like before.

Anyone got any ideas what it could be thats causing this and what I can do to fix this (I cant get it back to the brake place until Monday as they are closed now)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156636-brakes-constantly-squeaking/
Share on other sites

well check your brake pads would be a good way to start to see how much meat you got left. maybe you can change to a different brand pad also because some are known to squeal. I use to have dodgy squealing ones then changed to bendix and all good now :)

Edited by LatinR33

Im fairly sure their just normal Bendix pads, the thing is they dont squeak at all when braking, its the cruising along when im not touching the brakes at all that they continuously squeak, as soon as I apply the brakes to slow down the squeeling stops.

Have you got the backing plate on the pads? If not, get some OEM nissan backing plates and install them. Often brake places will leave them out as they dont usually come with aftermarket pads.

If you do have backing plates already: get some anti brake squealing stuff from repco. Its called "Squeal stop" or something equally as obvious. Just ask at the the counter. It's a red goo that you apply to the back of the pad to stop it vibrating. It's not a commonly known fact - the squealing sound is actually the brake pad 'rattling' at high frequency inside its housing, so adding some packing in there (backing plate) or some shock absorbing material (squeal stopping goo!) will solve your problem.

I found that the goo works well for a few months then needs re-application. Best off getting some proper backing in there (oem works fine) to provide some absorption for the annoying squeal!

Good luck :wave:

damn i was hoping the normal ones fixed it :wave:

mine do the opposite and just squeel when im coming to complete stop

Im fairly sure their just normal Bendix pads, the thing is they dont squeak at all when braking, its the cruising along when im not touching the brakes at all that they continuously squeak, as soon as I apply the brakes to slow down the squeeling stops.
Have you got the backing plate on the pads? If not, get some OEM nissan backing plates and install them. Often brake places will leave them out as they dont usually come with aftermarket pads.

If you do have backing plates already: get some anti brake squealing stuff from repco. Its called "Squeal stop" or something equally as obvious. Just ask at the the counter. It's a red goo that you apply to the back of the pad to stop it vibrating. It's not a commonly known fact - the squealing sound is actually the brake pad 'rattling' at high frequency inside its housing, so adding some packing in there (backing plate) or some shock absorbing material (squeal stopping goo!) will solve your problem.

I found that the goo works well for a few months then needs re-application. Best off getting some proper backing in there (oem works fine) to provide some absorption for the annoying squeal!

Good luck :wave:

Thanks mate ill go down to Repco tomorrow and grab some of this stuff hopefully it works :wave::(

Update:

PROBLEM FIXED!!! :)

Turned out it was the shim plate thing was rubbing along the disc constantly even though the pads were brand new, got my dad to look at it today and he solved the mystery for me, went on a nice squeak free drive after that.

Cheers to everyone who offered advice.

Hmm.. Well good to hear that you got it sorted, but i'm a little worried about what you just explained.

From the outside to inside, the order goes caliper/piston, shim plate, brake pad, rotor (disc). Theoretically if they're installed properly then the shim plate and the rotor shouldnt come close to touching because there is a chunky pad between them. Anyway, you've got the issue sorted so I guess thats all that matters! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...