Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can somone please help me, i posted a few days ago but no one seemed to know anything as there was no reply!

i have taken the bottome end of my motor apart with the head still intact on a engine stand with the intention of replacing the big end bearings and main bearings and thrust washer and the oil pump also. everything is appart. bearings have worn a little but i guess you would expet that with 100,000 kms and a heavy foot for a least 40,000 :happy:

there a no deep scores in the bearings just slight wear (coulor) and the crank looks perfect, it will be getting crack tested and the journals looked at to be positive that its fine.

my problem is that when i spoke to nissan and tried to order bearings the told me when ordering standard bearings i need to cheak markings on the crank and main and con rod caps and compare this to a chart and work out the grade i need for each bearing. they faxed me a graph but its in japanese and i cant make any sense of it.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160421-rb25-engine-bearings/
Share on other sites

when you buy the acl bearings.... standard size not oversize i think its the same as nissan, they grade the bearings depending on the markings... think it may have somthing to do with balance or the exact circumference of the journal.. i dunno, all i know is when you buy a standard bearing you need to know if its a garde 1,2 or 3??

wel nissan have told me i need a grade of bearing, those markings on the front end of the crank on the conrod caps, on the side of the con rod, on your main caps.... they are there apparently for bearing grades. i know if i get the crank machined to 10thou oversize i can just order a set of 10 thou oversize bearings... but there is nothing at all wrong with my crank. anyone else have any idea?

yeah i spoke to the head mechanic of marooka nissan service and he suggested that because he couldnt tell me over the phone... said he would have to look at it. it just seems like such a pain in the arse to get it there... its all in parts... the head is still on the block... its upside down on a engine stand. plus i have to get time off work to make it there!!!

i really thought i could just pull it apart and replace the bearings like any other motor.... this SUCKS!!!!!

king bearings and linised crank for $300? so who did it and did you just send them a crank and they linish it and give you bearings that will fit?

Nepean Engines in Penrith.

took the crank to them, 2 days later got it back with new bearings and lynished . i think though that the mains are another brand not king come to mention it, as he said that the main force is on teh big ends not the main bearings, this is for a 300rwkw power goal which he knew about.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...