Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

or even 220kw.

When I get my GTS-t 4door, probably a 94 or 95.

Assuming there are no mods and it has around 60-80 thou.

What is the standard KW of one of these?

What mods would be needed to attain the above?

I have been test driving a few. One thing I noticed is how much difference just an air intake mod makes. (Pod V's Filter box) not to mention that glorious whooshing sound.

Also do any of these mods affect Insurance?

As I am getting a Auto :)

What are your thoughts on stall converters?

I have read alot about the skylines but have not seen any mention of these in skyline circles.

Also, and shoot me for stupid question.

But the turbo boost.

Whats involved in raising it to say 12? much in the way of mods?

What is the Max with stock internals? or best boost for stock car say after a decent exaust and intake?

And is it hard to reset the engine managment sytem.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_1105/P_2/article.html

the RB25DET is undoubtedly one of the best single turbo engines we've ever sat behind. Off-boost torque is strong, but get some load on above about 3000 rpm and she's a real rocket. Torque holds strong until close to the 7000 rpm redline - though note that our test car had been equipped with an aftermarket exhaust system. A short drive will have you believing every one of those 187kW (at 6400 rpm) and 294Nm (at 4800 rpm).

With design similar to the GT-R's RB26DETT engine, we can only assume that the RB25DET is built tough and can handle lot more power. The first step in this direction should be the exhaust and intake. A good 3-inch pipe and a free-flowing cold air intake will up the power output to around 225kW. Note that many second-hand GTS25Ts already come delivered with an exhaust and an aftermarket filter; chances are the exhaust is pretty good, but the intake will likely be an exposed filter sucking hot air. Ditch this and replace it with something that will draw in only cool ambient air.

Following this, the R33's relatively small intercooler should be the next item to get the flick. An aftermarket core or - perhaps - twinning a pair of Nissan coolers will perform nicely, and - don't forget - a GT-R cooler should go pretty well straight in (perhaps bumper mods will be required to make space).

Late model Nissan turbochargers are responsive and hi-tech - but they can't be boosted very hard or else their ceramic turbines will crack. We'd suggest that you could probably take the boost pressure up to around 10-12 psi without needing EFI/injector mods or running into any turbo reliability issues. Together with an upgrade intercooler, you should be looking at around 260-270kW. Serious power.

[b:75d5537deb]As always with any Japanese import, be very wary of their made-for-100RON computers; the engines will detonate like mad if you let them[/size:75d5537deb][u:75d5537deb]WTF[/size:75d5537deb][/u:75d5537deb][/color:75d5537deb][/b:75d5537deb] [/quote:75d5537deb]

At around 250kW what would be an estimated 1/4mile be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204-i-want-200kw/
Share on other sites

ok I'm about to put an rb25det in my car.

I must be crazy when you do the sums.

any way the simple solution is in this order

do exhaust

raise boost 12 psi

fit s-afc

fit front mount inter cooler

pod filters are optional and only make the car louder and could be illegal in your state.

and around 160 -170 rwkw should be avaliable to you. I don't recommend going higher if you get an auto I'm about to convert my auto to manual.

to raise boost you need a bleed valve but also fitting an after market exhaust should raise the boost abit.

stall converters waste alot of fuel and are only recommended if you are regularly drag racing. auto become expesive to fix as well if you drive a manual get one casue resale is also better in manuals.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204-i-want-200kw/#findComment-8832
Share on other sites

Ta

I would not mind getting a manual but MRSE will need to be able to drive it if her car is off the road. She only has a Auto license and until the earth freezes over she aint going for a manual one :)

Anyway in my old age 31 :) I have become to lazy anyway and just like to cruise and blow off the odd car at the lights.

Why do you say "I don't recommend going higher if you get an auto "????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204-i-want-200kw/#findComment-8833
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...