Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

selling my cousins nintendo wii.

he has had it for about 5 months and got it chipped like the first week.

he has 90 games for it and i think about 85 are all copies and 5 originals.

he has 4 controllers all with nun chucks and the wii has reciept from jbhi-fi.

i will get game list tomoz and find out the name of the chip.

he has spent $10 per game so $900 on the games alone, $400 on the system and another $200 odd on the controllers and $100 for the chip

he wants $1000

pm me to arrange a time to test the wii

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/260837-nintendo-wii-4-controllers-90-games/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys,

this is my cousins. He told me he sold it a month and a half ago but when i went round the other night it was just sitting there in a box. So it's back up for sale.

It has been modified (within a week of purchase) and he has had it for about 5 months.

It comes with 4 controllers and 2 guns.

90 games I think he said about 86 are copied i can get list if you really want, but he has all the main games.

All boxes and reciept from jb-hifi.

He intially was going to get $750 for it and wanted $1000.. lol

I think he will sell it for 600ono.

the same ad has been placed on nsilvia.

pm me and ill send u my number.

it is in my car in the boxes at the moment but im in cheltenham.. melbourne!

also the games come with a dvd rack. all games have white cases and half of them have the printed dvd sleeves.

all of the copied discs look exactly the same as the originals... they all have been printed on.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey man not being a low baller or anything

i know u sed 600ono

however most id pay is probably 500

or if u wanna sell em to me without games 370-400

only coz im about to buy one

and dont really need 90 games

Hey dude, lol i dont know how i stumbled on this because i wasnt even searching for this..

But.. Going along with what the guy above me said, if you want to get rid of only the games (and he can have the console only?) then PM me your mobile number and we will talk. Maybe you'll earn more by splitting up the package? :D Also if you could list/pm me the games?

Cheers!

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys got pics,

not selling the copied games as my cousins mate has taken them.

still available.

boxes, 2 guns, console with chip, 4 controllers, 4 nunchucks, 4 original games: ghost squad, super smash bros, wii sports and sega bass fishing

havent been stuffed putting it on ebay so will try here one last time. I felt a little uncomfertable sell all these copied games with it.

Pick it up for $500 or it goes on ebay.

post-31482-1244561143_thumb.jpgpost-31482-1244561151_thumb.jpg

Secretly though its really yours isnt it :P not ur cousens lol

If I win some money this week ill deffo buy it for that price lol

yer ok dude its mine... lol

ill get the reciept off him tomoz.. on the back of the wii it has the date it waas chipped 27/10/08 and he got it chipped like the same day he bought it. so it would have been bought on the 27 of october last year?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...