Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought this a few months ago from an older fella who was the original owner in Australia since 48000Ks, it was stock apart from a turbo back 3" exhaust and alarm.

I have a lot of paperwork re service history etc. I can pretty much guarantee this has never seen a track, been defected or been in a crash....very Honest clean car

Selling due to other projects taking priority.

PA240146.jpg

-93 Model, Auto SR20DET all factory..Matching Numbers, Rego etc.

-Factory Aero(?) Plastic skirts and REAR PODS/VALANCE!!

-Mint Interior...NO DASH CRACKS!

-Factory Weather Sheilds

-154xxxK's...totally believable based on receipts I have

-Digital Climate Control(COLD A/C), Head-Up display, HICAS, ABS etc.

-Alarm Fitted

-17" 5 spoke Rims with Excellent tread All round

-Aftermarket Leather 3 spoke steering wheel

-Pioneer 6x9s in custom box in boot/Stock front speakers

-Slotted RDA Front Rotors

-Factory LSD

That's pretty much how I got it...Hasn't copped a lot of mods, but below is what I've done/had done since owning it..

-ARC Side-Mount Intercooler

-Pod Filter

-Turbotech Boost controller (set for a very modest boost increase)

-Autometer Boost gauge...not yet plumbed in

-09 Model Pioneer DEH-P7150UB MP3/CD Reciever..USB/IPOD/iPhone compatible

-Pioneer 10" Sub in matching box

-Cadence Mono Amplifier

-GKtech Washer Bottle

-Royal Purple Oil Change

-NGK R5671A-7 Plugs

-Radiator Air-Diversion Panel

-New Tint

-New TPS

The car has also been to Pedders for a checkover and was given a clean bill of health suspension wise, except for a Leaky steering rack and Boots, Rack Bush and front swaybar bushes. All have been replaced with high quality aftermarket Items (superpro) So it drives great..Nice and firm, but is relatively stock so the ride is comfortable. All reciepts and reports available.

I also Have a set of New A1RM QFM Pads for the front and enough royal purple for the next oil change, which I was planning on doing soon (last changed at 151xxxKs)

Body/Paint is in great condition for age, but the rear hatch has had the spoiler removed and is showing signs of a job not done properly and the rear pods/valance are looking a bit faded. I have had a quote to have this PROPERLY sorted (glass removed, metal filled and rear re-painted) for $800 and can hook the buyer up with my guy if you choose

These are all the pics I have at the moment...I'll try and get some better Daylight shots up soon.

Serious buyers Call/SMS 0409 069 251 or PM me...Trades to the value of 2-3K for a daily with A/C and no issues will be considered...but make sure you give me all the info you can about the car - including pics - by way of PM or Email ([email protected]) if you can't get your head around the concept of hosting pics.

th_PC300170.jpgth_PC300173.jpgth_PC300174.jpgth_PC300177.jpg

th_PA240147.jpgth_PA240148.jpgth_PA240150.jpgth_PA240152.jpg

th_PA240154.jpgth_PA240158.jpg

Price - $7500 FIRM I can remove or hang on to stereo parts/Boost gauge/Pads Whatever to bring it down to around $7K but

DON'T WASTE MY TIME WITH LOW-BALL OFFERS PLEASE! I wont be going lower or I'd rather keep it

Whoops, didn't realise it was auto :blink: Sorry.

Haha, thats cool. This is the second auto S13 I've had....because every manual I've driven has felt like a loose, clapped out piece of crap. It's cheap to convert them and if not, chuck a shift kit in it...the autos are pretty quick in a straight line.

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump...still got this. Happy to have had this during the heatwave! Car ran perfect, and A/C was cold :P

Still for sale but not too fussed if I end up keeping it. Hit me with some trade offers with at least 3-3.5k my way

  • 3 weeks later...

PRICE DROPPED TO 6.5K FOR THIS WEEK! Due to re shuffling some home finance...would be a handy top up, but will keep if not sold for this price THIS WEEK

As is, minus sub, amp and boost gauge

I'm on Holidays this week so come check it out anytime....Located in Elizabeth Vale. Call 0409 069 251

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...