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I bought this a few months ago from an older fella who was the original owner in Australia since 48000Ks, it was stock apart from a turbo back 3" exhaust and alarm.

I have a lot of paperwork re service history etc. I can pretty much guarantee this has never seen a track, been defected or been in a crash....very Honest clean car

Selling due to other projects taking priority.

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-93 Model, Auto SR20DET all factory..Matching Numbers, Rego etc.

-Factory Aero(?) Plastic skirts and REAR PODS/VALANCE!!

-Mint Interior...NO DASH CRACKS!

-Factory Weather Sheilds

-154xxxK's...totally believable based on receipts I have

-Digital Climate Control(COLD A/C), Head-Up display, HICAS, ABS etc.

-Alarm Fitted

-17" 5 spoke Rims with Excellent tread All round

-Aftermarket Leather 3 spoke steering wheel

-Pioneer 6x9s in custom box in boot/Stock front speakers

-Slotted RDA Front Rotors

-Factory LSD

That's pretty much how I got it...Hasn't copped a lot of mods, but below is what I've done/had done since owning it..

-ARC Side-Mount Intercooler

-Pod Filter

-Turbotech Boost controller (set for a very modest boost increase)

-Autometer Boost gauge...not yet plumbed in

-09 Model Pioneer DEH-P7150UB MP3/CD Reciever..USB/IPOD/iPhone compatible

-Pioneer 10" Sub in matching box

-Cadence Mono Amplifier

-GKtech Washer Bottle

-Royal Purple Oil Change

-NGK R5671A-7 Plugs

-Radiator Air-Diversion Panel

-New Tint

-New TPS

The car has also been to Pedders for a checkover and was given a clean bill of health suspension wise, except for a Leaky steering rack and Boots, Rack Bush and front swaybar bushes. All have been replaced with high quality aftermarket Items (superpro) So it drives great..Nice and firm, but is relatively stock so the ride is comfortable. All reciepts and reports available.

I also Have a set of New A1RM QFM Pads for the front and enough royal purple for the next oil change, which I was planning on doing soon (last changed at 151xxxKs)

Body/Paint is in great condition for age, but the rear hatch has had the spoiler removed and is showing signs of a job not done properly and the rear pods/valance are looking a bit faded. I have had a quote to have this PROPERLY sorted (glass removed, metal filled and rear re-painted) for $800 and can hook the buyer up with my guy if you choose

These are all the pics I have at the moment...I'll try and get some better Daylight shots up soon.

Serious buyers Call/SMS 0409 069 251 or PM me...Trades to the value of 2-3K for a daily with A/C and no issues will be considered...but make sure you give me all the info you can about the car - including pics - by way of PM or Email ([email protected]) if you can't get your head around the concept of hosting pics.

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Price - $7500 FIRM I can remove or hang on to stereo parts/Boost gauge/Pads Whatever to bring it down to around $7K but

DON'T WASTE MY TIME WITH LOW-BALL OFFERS PLEASE! I wont be going lower or I'd rather keep it

Whoops, didn't realise it was auto :blink: Sorry.

Haha, thats cool. This is the second auto S13 I've had....because every manual I've driven has felt like a loose, clapped out piece of crap. It's cheap to convert them and if not, chuck a shift kit in it...the autos are pretty quick in a straight line.

  • 2 weeks later...

Bump...still got this. Happy to have had this during the heatwave! Car ran perfect, and A/C was cold :P

Still for sale but not too fussed if I end up keeping it. Hit me with some trade offers with at least 3-3.5k my way

  • 3 weeks later...

PRICE DROPPED TO 6.5K FOR THIS WEEK! Due to re shuffling some home finance...would be a handy top up, but will keep if not sold for this price THIS WEEK

As is, minus sub, amp and boost gauge

I'm on Holidays this week so come check it out anytime....Located in Elizabeth Vale. Call 0409 069 251

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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