Jump to content
SAU Community

Stalling After Start Issue Issue

TUF250

By TUF250,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi all,

I have an R33 GTS-t with the following work done. 3inch turbo back exhaust, K&N pod, r34 GT-T cooler.

I have done the following service items

- timing belt, tensioners, seals

- new plugs bcpres-11 (gapped to 0.9)

- cleaned AFM (several times)

- cleaned all induction piping

- new o2 sensor

- cleaned AAC valve

- oils etc

Now the car usually runs really well

Recently it has developed what can only be described as R&R mode however the car is on stock boost (as confirmed by an aftermarket boost gauge) Interestingly the car also maintains 7psi at full throttle even though everyone isists it should spike higher with these mods...

I assumed I had an over sensitive ECU and it was hitting R&R due increased airflow.

That was until someone suggested it might be sensing detonation and going into a conservative fuel map. This scared me!

So I will check that the knock sensors are connected (a problem that I read during a serch that caused this)

Just on the odd occassion the car will start fine (first start in the morning) then stall, and yes I gave it time to prime. The car will then start normally.

What would cause this? Fuel Pump? Dead AFM? Would it be anything that would cause my strange R&R at standard boost problem?

Now if it is fuel pumps can someone suggest the part number for the common recommended pumps (bosch, walbro, tomei etc) their part numbers for the ones that bolt in, no mods required. Looking for capacity to run about 10-12 psi tuned with the above mods. Also would appreciate any recommended places in melb for getting these at a good price

Thanks!

Edited by TUF250
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332652-stalling-after-start-issue-issue/
Share on other sites
jarrod83 Community Regular

jarrod83

Posted
Posted

Heres the tomei fuel pump for a r33 gtst on nengun. http://www.nengun.com/tomei/fuel-pump-niss...yline-r33-gts-t I bought one after i ditched my walbro, when i thought it may of been causing problems, they are pretty easy to install but a bit of overkill for what you want. A bosch 040 is easy enough to install and roughly about half the price.

What boost gauge are you using?? mine was getting a couple extra psi after i installed a full exhaust and was getting a little extra at night. Im not sure if it went into R&R if it would cause less boost?? Unless it was stupidly rich.

Jarrod

TUF250 Proficient

TUF250

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it just feels flat, no missfire no pop crackles, nothing. Its smooth as silk. However its down on power. When I reset the ecu the other day it went back to its normal self and was gre4at but by the following night it was 'flat' again. So just chasing the fault.

I just have a calibre digital boost gauge. shows 5 to 4500rpm then 7 so seems accurate, the car just isnt spiking. Not sure if the car stays in R&R mode once it happens or if it resets after you shut the car off?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • fatz
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By fatz · Posted

      Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...