Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just got a single stage turbo smart boost controller and Im having a hard time getting it to work, from what Ive found on the net all u do is take the 2 hoses going into the boost reg. and use them to go into the Tee on the boost controller, Ive done that and the boost hasn't changed, I've tried adjusting it and installing the tee one way then the other and still I cant get any more boost out of it, PS the switch is all hooked and it clicks when u flick it so that ends all good

Cheers for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343049-260rs-boost-controller-problems/
Share on other sites

Stand at front. Between ur battery and fuse box is the stock boost solenoid, use the hose coming in from the right on 1 of the tee bits. 2nd one is right behind the plenum, prick of a spot... Pull it off the plenum, block the hose off. Run a fresh hose from this nipple, to ur tee. Grab ur boost reading of your fpr hose for ur controller,

If u need help flick me a pm :D

Hey guys I just got a single stage turbo smart boost controller and Im having a hard time getting it to work, from what Ive found on the net all u do is take the 2 hoses going into the boost reg. and use them to go into the Tee on the boost controller, Ive done that and the boost hasn't changed, I've tried adjusting it and installing the tee one way then the other and still I cant get any more boost out of it, PS the switch is all hooked and it clicks when u flick it so that ends all good

Cheers for any help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...