Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Truly a weapon people, thats all I can say. I’ve had this car for about 6months and enjoyed every second I had with it. This BEAST has 200kw at all 4 wheels. Best traction car I have ever driven especially in the wet. Chassis done about 137,xxxkm. Engine is fully rebuilt to a 2.2 Stroker, only done 30,000kms boost set to

This car is in great condition, you will not find one that has been better taken care of. Always serviced on the dot and with top products - no cheap alternatives. This sale is extremely regretfull and would suit any extreme performance vehicle enthusiast. Please dont hesitate to call me with any questions in regards to the vehicle. Any reasonable offer will be considered

I have attached pics, quick ones i found on my computer when car was getting done up only thing changed on the pic below is the wheels as the others were much lighter better for car and gearbox....

Contact: 0400 899 981

PRICE: $17800 ONO Thats a very cheap price considering What i have spent guys..... My Loss will be your gain.

(Rego till mid 2011)

ENGINE

2.2L Stroked Motor (put in the car at 108,000k)

- Forged pistons.

- TRP Billet rods.

- Stroker crank.

- Hardened race bearings (conrods and mains)

- 3 layer metal head gaskets.

- ARP replacement 11mm head studs.

- High performance timing belt.

Walbro fuel pump

STi 550cc Injectors

STi Top Mount Intercooler

STi VF35 Turbo

BMC CAI System

Turbosmart Boost Controller

Microtech LTX-8s ECU

Full turbo back 3" exhaust

PBR Clutch ( Put in under 7,000ks ago)

Lowered on Genuine STi Springs

Cusco Strut Braces

Whitline Sway Bars

Exterior

STi Bonnet Scoop

STi Rear Wing

STi Genuine Headlights

STi Genuine Fog Light Covers

STi Genuine Grill

All Original STi Decals/ badges

DBA Slotted Discs

Clear Side Indicators

Clear side reflectors

Tinted Windows 20%

8000K HID Lights

18” Lightweight RIMS

Interior

FULL SAFRON LEATHER INTERIOR

White LED Parkers/ interior

Short Shifter

Boost Gauge

STi Pod

Oil pressure gauge

Oil temp gauge

Air/fuel gauge

Blue Led light with Switch

Apexi Turbo Timer

STi Trim/ gear knob

6.5” DVD Sony screen

MTX rear speakers

MTX Front speakers

Clarion Mono Amp

Kenwood 12” Subwooofer

Immboliser

Cruise control

post-51275-1288917342_thumb.jpg

post-51275-1288917347_thumb.jpg

post-51275-1288917352_thumb.jpg

post-51275-1288917358_thumb.jpg

post-51275-1288917374_thumb.jpg

post-51275-1288917400_thumb.jpg

Edited by BL35ED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...