Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, after completing my rb26 engine r&i the car wont idle or run without dumping copious amounts of fuel out of the exhaust.

what is odd to me is that the car was idling fine. The battery wont charge however the terminal and alt shows 14v while running. (Tried new batt) but to no avail.

The car was idling fine until the battery started to die and the idle got lower and lower until all of a sudden the tick off a relay was heard and instant shutdown. The car started back up but from then on ran super rough, wont idle at all and is rich and sluggish to free rev. Forget driving it, seems to build boost but not accelerate and just dumps fuel in.

checked vac lines, fuses that I thought pertained to my issue and bought a new battery. None of which made a difference.

the wierdest thing of all is that the intakes pulse one after the other at idle as if the bovs are recirculating air. I tried blocking the reference off but made no difference.

Is it likely that the voltage drop caused a spike just as the car shut down and damaged a component? Apparently im hopeless at electrics but im open to instructions

Rb26

GT2540s

stock gtr bovs

haltech plat pro ecu.

twin walbro e85 pumps on with relay.

also worth mentioning alt gets fairly warm after running for only a few mins. Block is earthed, alt privides 14v wtf

(Confused and frustrated)

Blake

Have you checked your spark plugs, starter motor power cable connected properly, if all ok check your timing to make sure the haltec is reading the same as your timing light. Sounds as though the timing is retarded for some reason.

No I didnt check the plugs as it was running fine one minute then all of sudden no dice. I have adjusted the CAS by hand but that didnt help. Perhaps putting a timing light will tell me whether or not the CAS has died and is excessively retarding my timing no matter how far I advance it (its currently in the neutral position) yes I have tried the starter lead also. I am getting 14.3v to the battery. I cant explain the shuffling between intakes though.

Edited by 6InlineTT

Okay, I have some interesting info. I noticed when I bought the car the a/c compressor was unplugged on return from having the Haltech fitted. Apparently the haltech is not compatible with the skylines "direct 12v feed a/c compressor). So unknowingly I have plugged it back in.

When I connect my battery up, I can hear the compressor clutch engage which tells me it's drawing power when the car is off. Perhaps my haltech has reverted to factory plug n play settings for the stock rb26 injector slope. Mine are 1000cc. This would explain the super rich nature of the tune and possibly be part of the super fast battery drains.?

tomorrow night I will know for sure

forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10543

Apparently, You need to wire in a relay or something I'm not sure. Perhaps only on certain cars or models or eng swaps. My car is a GTfour using rb26 with combo of gtr and rb25 accessories. This is a steep learning curve for me so take what I say with a grain of salt haha.

Edited by 6InlineTT

Unugged the A/C compressor. Battery problem solved.

Base timing on the haltech shows 24-28deg at idle but i had to add 20degrees advance so it will run normally. Total advance reads around 50deg while base timing sits at 20.

I think my CAS is dodgy?

50deg advance seems excessive but the cars runs like its only at 20deg or so. I guess i need a timing light.

You need to check it with a light off the crank before you do anything. If there is that much variance with a light then it may be the dreaded modern ecu/ cas issue where the only real remedy is a crank trigger. But don't do anything until you test it with a light.

Ahh okay. Ill grab light tomorrow.

Considering it was running fine before the battery died while it was running I will hope that Its the CAS.. or I am a spastic

I set the timing via the cas to about 20degrees using the timing light. The car was very sluggish to free rev until I added timing correction +15deg now its perfect. I will take it for a spin tonight and check timing under boost. I swapped to e85 today aswell for added safety and adjusted then fuel trim up 30% seems to run fine. I am a little worried about excessive igntion timing but at the same time its the only way the car will run.

also I was thinking my vernier cam gear that is advanced 2degrees would alter my CAS output? Thus reading more advanced with the timing light than it truly is?

  • 5 weeks later...

Did some cas trigger angle pickup trickery with the haltech to get the cas to read the same as the ecu, 17.5psi @14degrees timing 305rwkw with good AFRs.

Recirc issue gone, car drives great. Time to add some timing and boost. How much, I'm not sure?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452568-rb26-e-flex-ignition-vs-boost/

Thank you for the assistance :)

I do but it's going in with the new exhaust. I ran it up on the dyno to check AFRs. .80lmda or 11.7:1 pretty steady on boost. The car made 312awkw on hks GTSS twins @21psi before the 2540s went on. So I figure I'll adjust slowly to 21psi and play with timing then while watching the knock levels. When I'm happy with it I'll dial it back a degree and leave it there. I was just curious to see what others are ballpark running.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 4 to 5 is fine. It will be slow, but that's better than blowing turbos. I don't have a PS pump idle up solenoid on my car, because... I think when we put the Neo in we retained my R32 lines. But.... From inspecton of the R34 vacuum hose diagram, you can see that the solenoid needs to be connected to the turbo inlet as source of clean air) and the plenum (as source of vacuum - which is the place for the air to flow to to cause the idle to increase). So 3 to 1 is VERY WRONG. 3 should go to either the turbo inlet, or the plenum. Follow the other hose from the PS solenoid and if it goes to the plenum, then your 3 goes to 2 2 would also serve as a bleed port for a boost solenoid.
    • Pull them out and pull more apart. You can't do shit with them still bolted to the floor of the car.
    • Yes it is. ZD1 is on the other side of the board. Where ZD1 is marked is clearly opposite a 2 pin device. Our 3 pin device here is not a ZD.
    • Alright, a little update on this... I called Fulcrum, who used to be the distributor in Australia. No Bueno, they don't service them anymore.  Called shock works, who don't service them but offered to dyno the shocks for performance, and suggested DNA in Sydney might service them.  Called DNA, who also do not service them and basically said they try to steer customers away from tein for this exact reason these days- there is just no support for them anymore apparently.  Both SW and DNA said they are a not necessarily a bad product, but they just don't service the brand or know anyone who does service the brand anymore.  So... I could keep calling around but at this point I think I'll probably just spring for the shockworks product, unless anyone here knows anything.  Cheers 🍻 
    • That's not a transistor --- it's marked ZD1 which makes it a zener diode. As to what the breakdown voltage is, not enough there to divine.
×
×
  • Create New...