Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I think I have a dodgy airflow meter as the car has hiccups on cruise.

I have a R33 GTS-t series 1, and was wondering if you guys could help me out with the following;

Do I purchase another standard airflow meter?

Or is there something better available aftermarket?

How much are they generally? brand new and second hand?

Where can I get my hands on one?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68420-dodgy-airflow-meter-o/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with my S1 R33

I dismantled the AFM and resoldered the joints from the PCB to the plug pins and haven't had a problem since.

I'm not saying that this will work for you, but it did for me.

You will need to silicone it back up after you put it back together to make sure it is sealed from water etc.

If you need to replace it, I'm not sure if you can get another standard RB25 AFM from Nissan, but could be expensive if they have them. Depending on the power of your engine and if your planning mods in the future, a Z32 AFM is a good aftermarket upgrade, it is the same size as the std one & a direct fit (80mm) and can handle up to around 300rwkw. Try www.nengun.com, if you want a new Z32 - about $460.00 or so. If going for second hand do a search on the forum, people are selling them now and again for half the price. I am having my AFM checked when my new engine goes in & if its gone, I will be definitley fitting a Z32 .

Thanks guys, just a couple more questions;

How do you actually get inside the airflow meter to resolder it?

What sort of hp is the standard airflow meter good for?

(I currently have 250rwhp on 9psi)

I've only noticed the hiccups since the installation of the new FMIC and CA intake...

Standard RB 20/25 AFM - 226 RWKW/378 BHP

Z32 AFM - 255 RWKW/415 BHP

- Although some people have their AFM's maxing out between 180RWKW & 200RWKW on 14psi using aftermarket turbos. On a stock turbo & a well tuned/well set up car they should not max out to around 225RWKW, depending on the boost level of course. Can't help with the re-soldering, someone else on the forum might be able to send some pics, or take it to your nearest performance shop who have experience working on AFM's. If you decide to replace, not fix, I would ring your closest Nissan dealer, to get a quote and for a standard RB20/25 AFM if avaiable. In the previous post I said Z32's were around $460 from Nengun, but I have seen them available tonight from another shop - UPI Performance in Moorabbin, Victoria for $440.00.

Cheers, Chris

z32 will require wires to be cut and soldered.

maybe try cleaning ur afm with electrical contact cleaner or others use brake cleaners and then see if u have hiccups

I will try that, and maybe try resoldering the points again. Any one have step by step instructions on fitting a z32 meter to a skyline? Also curious to know if anyone has done this mod and how things have been running with it?

Cheers

I am not sure if you can use the z32 with the standard ecu. If you have a PFC you can though. If I was you I would just clean the sucker with electrical contact cleaner. Test the cleaner on your hand first, if it leaves no oily stuff on your hand it should be good to use on your AFM.

I am not sure if you can use the z32 with the standard ecu. If you have a PFC you can though. If I was you I would just clean the sucker with electrical contact cleaner. Test the cleaner on your hand first, if it leaves no oily stuff on your hand it should be good to use on your AFM.

Hmm, never though of that. Has anyone out there fitted one on their skyline with the standard ecu???

I have cleaned it out and also resoldered the contacts as one looked dodgy. Also disconnected the battery to reset the ecu. Will test tonight to see how it goes. But things never work out for me so will definately keep investigating.

I doubt very much that a Z32 would work with stock ecu.

Maybe you're right but i don't know enough to comment

Do you know this for sure or are you guessing???

Could it possibly be that its the ecu rather than the AFM causing hiccups on cruise??? The problem has only been there since the new FMIC and CA intake....

Can anyone else confirm the Z32 AFM theory please???

well I know that the RB25 AFM reads up 5 point something volts and the z32 one reads up to 3 point something volts but it is reading more air for those 3 volts than the RB25 one is reading at 5 volts.

So I guess that means that far more air will be going into the engine than the AFM is telling the ECU so the ECU wont put enough fuel in and your motor will blow up from being too lean or it just wont run at all.

Of course I don't know all this for sure. I'm just exercising my mind here.

As for the hiccoughs on cruise, you need to find a friend with the same car to swap the AFM and ECU (separately) to confirm whether either of them are at fault here.

Yea I wish I could but being in a location like East gippsland, there is either utes or utes. I just took it for a drive now with the airflow meter resoldered, but no real change :D(

The stoopid thing is when I got it dynoed, the mixtures were fine, 4 dyno runs and all good!!!

So no point in getting the Z32 meter without aftermarket ecu???

basically the z32 is calibrated differently, my stock afm was reading 5.1v at full throttle @ 12psi now with the z32 is reads 4.02V at full throttle.....the car runs when you put the stock ecu back in, but isnt very happy to rev past 3000rpm with the z32 afm.

You can get ur ecu chipped so that the maps can be edited accordingly and then the z32 will work.

Also you can hook up an multi-meter on it and see what voltage its hitting under full throttle/partial throttle and you might find the problem then.

Try resetting the ECU?

basically the z32 is calibrated differently, my stock afm was reading 5.1v at full throttle @ 12psi now with the z32 is reads 4.02V at full throttle.....the car runs when you put the stock ecu back in, but isnt very happy to rev past 3000rpm with the z32 afm.

You can get ur ecu chipped so that the maps can be edited accordingly and then the z32 will work.

Also you can hook up an multi-meter on it and see what voltage its hitting under full throttle/partial throttle and you might find the problem then.  

Try resetting the ECU?

Yea resetting didn't help. I might have to dig deep and get an ecu, maybe then it'll be alright...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...