Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I think I have a dodgy airflow meter as the car has hiccups on cruise.

I have a R33 GTS-t series 1, and was wondering if you guys could help me out with the following;

Do I purchase another standard airflow meter?

Or is there something better available aftermarket?

How much are they generally? brand new and second hand?

Where can I get my hands on one?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/68420-dodgy-airflow-meter-o/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with my S1 R33

I dismantled the AFM and resoldered the joints from the PCB to the plug pins and haven't had a problem since.

I'm not saying that this will work for you, but it did for me.

You will need to silicone it back up after you put it back together to make sure it is sealed from water etc.

If you need to replace it, I'm not sure if you can get another standard RB25 AFM from Nissan, but could be expensive if they have them. Depending on the power of your engine and if your planning mods in the future, a Z32 AFM is a good aftermarket upgrade, it is the same size as the std one & a direct fit (80mm) and can handle up to around 300rwkw. Try www.nengun.com, if you want a new Z32 - about $460.00 or so. If going for second hand do a search on the forum, people are selling them now and again for half the price. I am having my AFM checked when my new engine goes in & if its gone, I will be definitley fitting a Z32 .

Thanks guys, just a couple more questions;

How do you actually get inside the airflow meter to resolder it?

What sort of hp is the standard airflow meter good for?

(I currently have 250rwhp on 9psi)

I've only noticed the hiccups since the installation of the new FMIC and CA intake...

Standard RB 20/25 AFM - 226 RWKW/378 BHP

Z32 AFM - 255 RWKW/415 BHP

- Although some people have their AFM's maxing out between 180RWKW & 200RWKW on 14psi using aftermarket turbos. On a stock turbo & a well tuned/well set up car they should not max out to around 225RWKW, depending on the boost level of course. Can't help with the re-soldering, someone else on the forum might be able to send some pics, or take it to your nearest performance shop who have experience working on AFM's. If you decide to replace, not fix, I would ring your closest Nissan dealer, to get a quote and for a standard RB20/25 AFM if avaiable. In the previous post I said Z32's were around $460 from Nengun, but I have seen them available tonight from another shop - UPI Performance in Moorabbin, Victoria for $440.00.

Cheers, Chris

z32 will require wires to be cut and soldered.

maybe try cleaning ur afm with electrical contact cleaner or others use brake cleaners and then see if u have hiccups

I will try that, and maybe try resoldering the points again. Any one have step by step instructions on fitting a z32 meter to a skyline? Also curious to know if anyone has done this mod and how things have been running with it?

Cheers

I am not sure if you can use the z32 with the standard ecu. If you have a PFC you can though. If I was you I would just clean the sucker with electrical contact cleaner. Test the cleaner on your hand first, if it leaves no oily stuff on your hand it should be good to use on your AFM.

I am not sure if you can use the z32 with the standard ecu. If you have a PFC you can though. If I was you I would just clean the sucker with electrical contact cleaner. Test the cleaner on your hand first, if it leaves no oily stuff on your hand it should be good to use on your AFM.

Hmm, never though of that. Has anyone out there fitted one on their skyline with the standard ecu???

I have cleaned it out and also resoldered the contacts as one looked dodgy. Also disconnected the battery to reset the ecu. Will test tonight to see how it goes. But things never work out for me so will definately keep investigating.

I doubt very much that a Z32 would work with stock ecu.

Maybe you're right but i don't know enough to comment

Do you know this for sure or are you guessing???

Could it possibly be that its the ecu rather than the AFM causing hiccups on cruise??? The problem has only been there since the new FMIC and CA intake....

Can anyone else confirm the Z32 AFM theory please???

well I know that the RB25 AFM reads up 5 point something volts and the z32 one reads up to 3 point something volts but it is reading more air for those 3 volts than the RB25 one is reading at 5 volts.

So I guess that means that far more air will be going into the engine than the AFM is telling the ECU so the ECU wont put enough fuel in and your motor will blow up from being too lean or it just wont run at all.

Of course I don't know all this for sure. I'm just exercising my mind here.

As for the hiccoughs on cruise, you need to find a friend with the same car to swap the AFM and ECU (separately) to confirm whether either of them are at fault here.

Yea I wish I could but being in a location like East gippsland, there is either utes or utes. I just took it for a drive now with the airflow meter resoldered, but no real change :D(

The stoopid thing is when I got it dynoed, the mixtures were fine, 4 dyno runs and all good!!!

So no point in getting the Z32 meter without aftermarket ecu???

basically the z32 is calibrated differently, my stock afm was reading 5.1v at full throttle @ 12psi now with the z32 is reads 4.02V at full throttle.....the car runs when you put the stock ecu back in, but isnt very happy to rev past 3000rpm with the z32 afm.

You can get ur ecu chipped so that the maps can be edited accordingly and then the z32 will work.

Also you can hook up an multi-meter on it and see what voltage its hitting under full throttle/partial throttle and you might find the problem then.

Try resetting the ECU?

basically the z32 is calibrated differently, my stock afm was reading 5.1v at full throttle @ 12psi now with the z32 is reads 4.02V at full throttle.....the car runs when you put the stock ecu back in, but isnt very happy to rev past 3000rpm with the z32 afm.

You can get ur ecu chipped so that the maps can be edited accordingly and then the z32 will work.

Also you can hook up an multi-meter on it and see what voltage its hitting under full throttle/partial throttle and you might find the problem then.  

Try resetting the ECU?

Yea resetting didn't help. I might have to dig deep and get an ecu, maybe then it'll be alright...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...