negativecamber

Do they even make a 3 into 1 block for the 3 pumps?

In my case it is a full system from the ground up using E85.

The guys at race car engineering recommend -6 fuel line to rail, -8 return to surge and even -10 surge overflow to tank. All in the name of reducing pressure where you don't want it. Especially when using twin pumps that can handle some big flow.

I'm getting the new aeroflow 7000 series hose which is apparently the tits.

Teflon braided hose. Almost all braided hose company's call it 200 series hose.

Carby pumps are fine for lift pumps because you mainly want high volume/low pressure. The pump after the surge needs to be higher pressure.

Sorry I just browsed the link you posted. The holley pumps I'm talking about are the old style holleys that are like $100.

Aeroflow are a direct copy of the Holley pumps and have the same colour coding for the pumps. The red and blue models aren't methanol compatible but the black is. The black is 140gph. Carter lift pumps aren't e85 compatible either. I've just gone through this myself and ended up with the aeroflow black since anything better was a substantial increase in price.

I needed this the other day. That part number is correct and only comes in a twin pack. Holden said that that part was obsolete in 2007 but Nissan recognized it only when they paired it up with the Patrol rb30. I thought I didn't need both threads but I ended up using the other one in my remote filter mount to keep it RB specs when buying a new filter and not the universal 3/4 type.

Should I have said 'breather'? Get over it, I had the choice to type either word and the term is irrelevant to my question.

I have read the thread/s mate. I believe the rear drain is a must for my setup and there is more evidence to suggest it is better than not having one.

Is there a reason why the rear head drain setups always seem to go to the turbo side of the sump? I'm just about to weld on my -10 fitting for the head return and the intake side seems more logical due to less heat and the fact that the sump baffle isn't in the way of the high position on the sump.

If anybody encounters this issue in the future, just tap a 12mm thread through the sleeve, put a bolt in and then pull it out with some pliers. I just had great success this and now I'll just grab that cheap replacement part off nissan.

A friend on mine just showed me his RB25 block and it has that nissan factory stopper in place. I'll suss out nissan to get one for me. Thanks again.

If there is such a thing I'd be glad to find it. Currently there is a sleev wedged inside there that I can only think to tap a thread through.