J_Red33

Well this is turning very one sided fast Very interesting, car is a 95 model Mazda Astina V6 I doubt a Hall bar would be any different on my car other than a label being only rated to 700kg. If you can find one for a '95 Mazda Astina Hatch I'll buy it, but I've never seen one yet. Looking like Allin is going to be the go so far. Thanks for your input guys

Hi all, Been a while since I've been on here, my 33 has been lying dormant for quite some time. However I am finally taking some steps towards getting it back on the road, recently bought a house & now have to sort out a garage so I can bring it home & start work on it. One thing I need now in preparation for my new cave is a towbar on my daily. I am mainly debating between either a Allin or Hall towbars, but haven't been able to find very much information on personal opinions/experiences of the 2. I have been quoted about $50 less for the Allin than the Hall, but not sure if the Hall is worth the extra for any reason. All input would be appreciated. Cheers Jared

Thanks for that, pretty good recommendation right there. Anyone got a recommendation as far as the painting is concerned?

Hi guys, Thought I'd start this thread back up, rather than creating a new one. I have been looking through previous recommendations for dent/paint repairers & am looking for some opinions. I need a dent repaired on a front fender of my daily thanks to some careless 4WD type that decided it would be ok to shove their door into it. Trouble is, they also took some of the clear off in the process, so ideally I'd get one person out to do the whole job. I don't however want some half assed repair job. Color Touch Systems & SMART Paintworx, are the only companies I know of that do both jobs. Has anyone had any experience with either of these compainies? Other choices for dent removals are, Dents Away & Dent Masters I've also seen something of son of rajab of the Dings, but he doesn't look like a mobile service. For paint repairs I've found BAC2NU, Adelaide Topline Touch Ups, Superfinish Express, & Up To Scratch. If anyone could make some recommendations for or against these (or others), it would be greatly appreciated. Regards Jared

Hey as per my email: Hi there, Yeah it was a long time ago. I had to remind myself what thread you were on about. Luckily for you I know just what you're looking for. The earth for all the fuel pump wiring is an eyelet that has 4 black wires going to it, 2 are for the pump. This is located on the panels behind the back seat towards the right hand side. The seat is a bit of a bugger to get out if you haven't already, though I assume you have if you know where the control module is. Seems a little odd that it will run for a while & then die. Just looking at the circuit diagram though earth is via the ballast resistor & the control module. So the only way the pump is going to have a full earth is with the control module active while the engine is running. Or you could do what I did & bridge the pins on the connector. If you're just checking with a meter, measure resistance, not continuity as that only measures a few ohms. Possibly the trap that the stupid sparky fell for (there's a lot of them that don't know much). Let me know how you go. Hope that helps Just to add to this if you look at my first photo from my old post the earth wires are on the eyelet bolted just under the white box in the centre of the picture. You can see they come off the main loom.

If you don't get it back within the first couple days your chances fade considerably let alone after 2 weeks. You wouldn't want it back now anyway.

Yep that was the problem alright. Cylinder 3 was the problem, runs great with your set in it :-). So looks like I'll be buying a set of split fires

I have to second this one, having had my line broken into & theft attempted I know it shouldn't be that easy. Still I'm upping my security further to make it very hard to steal. A good steering lock by itself is usually better protection than an alarm. Everyone should have one.

I only really need them for an hour tops if I bring my line to you & put them in on the spot. Will be pretty obvious if they are the cause. Yours is a series 2 I take it? Just checking Would be greatly appreciated.

Hi guys, been a while since I've been on here again, but back again I am. Had to spend a bit of time on my daily as I upgraded & it's been giving me trouble & now I've gone to start work on the line again it's playing up. I believe I have a faulty coil pack, so anyone that has a spare working set for an R33 S2 that could lend them to me for diagnosis would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Jared

I'd be interested in a full set if you do them again.

Wow, that's a s@#t load faster than last time. Top job mate

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List is growing fast, I'm in too. R33 GTS-T series 2 Thanks Phil

Thanks for the tutorial. I'm yet to actually fit mine yet, but I have a couple of suggestions when doing this from having previously removed my calipers. Rather than just undoing a line & having brake fluid spew out everywhere, I'd suggest draining each corner from the calipers bleed nipple first into a bucket with some clear tubing to prevent this. I'd then undo the brake line from the caliper end & point it into a bucket to drain any remaining fluid. Also have the reservoir cap removed when doing this. This should ensure a lot less mess & risk of corrosion/paint stripping. Also the best thing to help improve the firmness of the brakes isn't in fact the hoses. Get yourself a master cylinder stopper to prevent it flexing when you push the brake pedal. They flex a lot. Open your bonnet & watch the cylinder move as you press the brake pedal I fitted a Cusco brand stopper to my 33 & it was worth every cent, got to be careful with traffic following behind sometimes.... With the braided lines my brakes will be hard as a rock