SlowGTS-t

The wiring loom runs in the same are. The heat shield helps prevent the heat from the turbo melting bits of wire. I learned the hard way.. cut the heat shield with a hacksaw / bend it to make it fit.

Weird since we get our bilsteins repaired locally in NZ

Boxhead, You are running too much boost or your fuel pump is dying. Basically not enough fuel getting worse at the top of the rev range when the most fuel is needed. Benny, your a/f looks quite good for a stock ecu. Mine dips into the 9's above 5000rpm...

Ca18DET ones plug straight in, no mods whatsoever er.. except for the damned resistors. Probably good to around 200rwkw. Dunno about the plug on RB26DETT ones (~444cc) but these would be the go for ~230rwkw. (also low impedance unfortunately) Sydneykid, a bigger fuel pump shouldnt really give any more pressure but I guess you mean bigger pump and more fuel pressure?

Here is my definition of turbo lag. Lag is the difference between when the car comes on boost in 1st gear and 5th gear Mine is laggy, boost by 3500rpm in 5th and 4500rpm in 1st if I floor it from 2000rpm.

Fat32, for 220-240rwkw, get a set of GTR~444cc ones. Dont forget they are low impedance. Im aiming for just under 200rwkw so Ca18DET ones will do me fine. I managed to find another set, so Im pretty chuffed. All up er.. sounds like about $50 for two sets. Now I just have to pay to get them clean and flowed.

Just to add a bit more. EVO 1 's (the cheap old ones) have a lot of potential as all evo's have basically the same engine, and the 1's have the lowest compression. Filter, exhaust, 16psi (they seem to handle this ok on good gas) and they'll get into mid 12's... Ecu, Turbo and injector upgrade and they'll jsut about break into 11's...

I thought about that too. I think the best place to put the temperature probe is to stick it to the fins at the outlet side of the intercooler. I think putting it anywhere else would make it tend to give you the temperature of the pipes and not the air temp.

My bet is that the dyno operator T'd his boost gauge into the wastegate line. So when either the factory boost solenoid opens up, the pressure in the WASTEGATE line drops closing the wastegate slightly, increasing boost at the MANIFOLD. A 3psi drop would have shown up as a big change in the power curve

Apparently its 20 deg in Park and 15 deg in Drive for autos. 15 deg for manuals. There is a sticker under the bonnet that says in japanese *(*$(@*#&$ 15 Deg #&*$(*&@)(*# 20 Deg

You could also call the catch can a "filter". Let your imagination guide you from here. Oh, make sure the breathers dont get blocked. Blocked breather = lots of blue smoke..

enlarging wastegate fixes "boost creep" changing actuator spring changes spring rate which changes boost level. Bending actuator arm or shortening it (ie increasing preload on the spring without changing it) reduces wastegate creep. Try it but be careful not to break the arm.

I tried that but the marks dont seem to be right as I cant get the timing below 20deg BTDC. (they all seem too far to one side)

The wastegate opening too early is "WASTEGATE CREEP". Electronic boost controller or just a simple relief valve will fix it in most cases. Not really problem. Insufficient bypass at high rpm is "BOOST CREEP" where the boost just keeps climbing above the preset level as the revs build. This is a BIG problem

INASNT, which mag was that?

www28.brinkster.com/tokboy

My bet would be exhaust manifold gasket. Happened to me too. Could also be a) leak in piping after turbo (but tends to be more of a hissing B) turbo bearings buggered and wheels touching housing (very bad)

There is a nice cheap one on www.tau-net.co.jp somewhere for about $6000 aussie, manual Mivec too! FTO's GPX's are supposed to be one of the best handling FWD cars in the world. I've driven on and its a really good car to drive. In fact, on a twisty country road, Im sure it would give many a skyline a hell of a fright.

Fuel Injectors?

N/a supras are ok. Friends one did the a 14.6@95mph with filter and exhaust. er.. 5 spd manual 235 front and 255 rear 17" wheels Great thing about them is the wide torque curve with good bottom end making them easy to launch well. saying that my R32 munched an auto one the other day (rolling start though) Riced to the max with the hell loud exhaust. Must have been gutted that a 4 door blew him off hehehe

More boost means more airflow, so the ecu puts more fuel in. It isnt as bad as you think. I think in most cases it ends up getting richer with more boost (until you run out of fuel system capacity)

Actually, most RWD skylines have nearly 50/50 weight distribution, About 53/47 from memory. Remember, the engine and gearbox do sit quite far back when compared to your run of the mill fwd cars.

heheheh Daily of course I guess what I'm saying is that running that lean doesnt give much allowance for things like bad fuel, blocked fuel filters, anything else, maybe even hot days. Question. Should a car run leaner if you put more boost on?

I'd be worried about how the A/F ratio gets leaner with more boost, I'd say that the injectors are pretty much maxed out or something. 12.0:1 is a bit on the lean side for a daily driver...

"load" = afm signal so at say 3.8 volts AFM signal and 6000rpm, injector duty will be 95%. At 40psi fuel pressure this might mean 4L/Min of fuel going into the engine at 80psi fuel pressure this might be 6.5L/Min There you have it.To confuse things a bit more ,the AFM signal has a lot to do with how much "Load" is on the car, eg how hard the engine is pulling.