Dash
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Posts posted by Dash
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Since last week my car has started idling high
It used to sit on 950 rpm
Now its up around 1400rpm
Doesnt appear to have any cold start correction either just stays, high hot or cold?
Runs fine but the high idle is starting to shit me.
Anyone know what could be wrong?
Any suggestions before I take to a mechanic?
Thanks
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Commodore cat is the same
I grabbed one out of bin at the back of an exhaust shop to make a jig for a cat-out pipe(for racing use only)
You can have it after I get the pipe made,should be done by the weekend.
How did you get the dumps out with the turbos on?
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Thurs arvo Roe hwy silver GTR?
It would have been me.
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Hard to tell on the photos but it does look like its been like that for a while.
Everything fixable just depends how deep your pockets are.
If chassis rails can be repaired on vintage cars and complete sections cut-out and replaced
why cant yours be fixed?
Go and see some body repair shops and get some quotes its the only way you'll know for sure.
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The rails do bend easily
Mine were perfect until the licensing inspector decided to jack the car up to check the wheel
bearings.
Couple of nice big dents in there now!
Thats nasty damage.
Looks fixable though as the rear of the rail sleaves into the front.
Possibly dolly the front section and replace the rear.
Then heaps of underbody tar j/k
Do you think it happened during shipping?
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Pretty sure Hyperdrive are open over the holidays
Give them a call 9209 3100
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Depends if your carrying more than two people and sitting below the speed limit
I'd tour the country in a R34 too but it would be more comfortable and practical to do in a
HSV.
Never had the pleasure of driving a R34gtr but no matter how much more refined there still
a small car interior wise.
Apples and oranges
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There a nice comfortable car with lots of room and a perform well for what they are.
Dont get me wrong I love my gtr but it really is alot more racier and would become a pain
to drive in traffic all day.
Although when I was younger it wouldn't have bothered me.
As for a "weekender" gtr handsdown!
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cheers for that blacky.
Just a few quetions for anyone in the know,
Q1:with the child restraint attachments, does each rear seat need it's own attachment or do you just need one for the one seat?
Q2: the a/c controls in my r32 have been moved to the dash in front of the passenger seat, does anyone know if this would need to be moved back to stock position?
You'll need them for both seats
Holes are already there but need to be drilled through the parcel shelf.
I also used a couple of spacers to raise them enough to clear the original speaker
covers.Make sure you buy the "late model"? restraints that have a provision for
a clip.When you go to buy them there is 2 types.
As for the a/c as long as the engineer signs off on your car with them there you should be fine.
Hope that helps
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I think the the point he is trying to make is even though dont want to, its recommended to
use Nissanmatic D.
I'm sure people have used non nissan spec ATF before.
Then again theres probably a couple running around with shockproof in the transfer case
aswell!
I'm gonna do my soon, let us know if you find a better alternative.
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Well done tutorial
When I did mine I didnt take the whole mirror out
One screw directly under the mirror and the the whole lot pops out.
undo the connectors and its out.
Just remember to take the backing plate to the glaziers as well, as mine needed grinding back for clearance.(they didnt have mirror the same thickness)
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Aren't you suppose to use ATF in the transfer case not g/box oil?
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steve
Dont stress about the bill of landing
You should receive it in the mail by the end of this week
As for payment you can use direct deposit,cash or bank cheque.
I had the car delivered before I paid and then went to UCB and paid with a bank cheque.
Internet banking would of been easier however the limit for me was 2k
He'll send you an itemised invoice with all the charges by mail.
Quick tip,dont bother with picking the car up yourself,I had organised a tow but it wasnt
worth it when delivery was only $60 on a flat bed truck to my door
Cant tell you much about cleaning as I didnt need it done
As long as your interior is clean you wont have a drama.
The outside of mine was filthy when it arrived.
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Yes you can
I got mine done last week at a glazier $25
Which included some light grinding of the backing plate for clearance.
Standard mirror is 1.5mm new piece is a bit thicker
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Hey steve
Are you using UCB as your customs broker?
If you are fax your air con exemption letter to Bill now as I was held up
a day or so waiting for approval.You will need it before your car will clear.
My car arrived on last months boat and was all pretty straight forward.
Boat docked fri/sat
Car cleared by thursday(no cleaning required)
Delivered to my door friday morning before work :wassup:
As for trying to clear it yourself for me it simply wasnt worth it.
I make more money going to work than I would of saved.
Also found Bill really good to deal with kept me informed of how everything was
going (by phone too!) and the charges were only $700 or so including Port charges etc..
The broker I brought the car through could take a lesson in customer service off him!!
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That formula is for a "straight" piece of pipe yeah?
Not taking into account the extra bends involved or the fact your still running over
the top of the motor(heatsoak).
What about how long it takes to fill that extra volume.
Not knocking you just asking a question.
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Faxing is definately quicker at the moment.
I sent my application express post on 29/9 and received it today 1/11
As for shipping apparently up to 85% of car carrying ships is allocated to new cars atm
and everyones trying to get a space.
You do have the option of putting a car in a container as they leave weekly instead of at
the end of the month,but this will add at least a k to the cost.
Btw next ship to dock in freo is the Arcadia Hwy
13th NOV
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Quote:
I think it puts far too much power in the hands of RAWS to extort customers
Hey bud I didn't say that and personally like the idea of a one stop shop
Takes the the alot the unknown out of the process as your dealing with the one company
and obviously they'll have a place of business to go to sort out any problems.
Also makes them more accountable.
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You wouldn't happen to know what a std or near std gtr makes on that dyno would you?
or even better a graph to compare yours to.
Then you'll know if its the dyno or your car
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Seems like RAW workshops are the winners here making brokers almost redundant
But as said the market will dictate prices.
Really what other 15 year old cars become available next year besides the NSX(which still command a bomb anyway)
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there was a thread on here somewhere about this
apparently the rear turbo will foul on the engine mount and require mods to fit
i think water and oil lines are in a different position and the compressor covers are larger
pretty sure flanges bolt up though
lots of other easier options out there
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My 2c
If your genuine and going to buy one now
Check this one out
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53730
I dont know what its like but the cars in perth
and worth a look at 22K.
Otherwise wait till early next year as there will probably be plenty of 89models
already in the country to inspect yourself.
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$3300?
Heres a link more indicative of the landed price.
http://www.nengun.com/product_info.php?pro...a0d38f7f9712a2b
Once you factor in the cost of fuel pump, injectors,ecu and labour charges(avg $1000 to remove and refit)and tuning the dollars go up.
My 2cents
If your on a budget get yours rebuilt with standard size steel wheels for around $1800(pair)
Boost response won't be as good but you'll be able to run over 1 bar without worrying about the wheels falling off.
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For the guys wanting gtr dumps,I got a price through Modyourcar.com
for the Trust ext kit(long w/gate pipes) of $1826.00
Don't really want to spend that much so if you know an alternative
let me know?
Stock GTR 33 feels slow. What to do ?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Easy way to remove the restrictor is to get a 8 guage screw at least 1.5 inches long
Screw it into the restricor till it bites and pull
I farted about with pliers too till I thought of using a screw, heaps easier!