Ben C34
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Posts posted by Ben C34
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did you drain your surge tank? that would hold enough fuel for it to run
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check your pipes for leaks. search how to pressure test system.
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It looks like one of the lines used to bleed air out of the system. It also looks like you are missing the rest of the front bleed system.
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well the obvious thing to suggest is check the cam timing. again. its not like the valves or lifters stuffed up when you did the pump.
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I am genuinely amazed that you are building an engine planning on decent power, and don't know much about what afm to use at this stage.....
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it was part of the factory boost control.
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anyway,i found a YouTube video you might find inspirational for mods
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judging from daleo's post the whiteline bar will fit your rwd perfectly with the links provided.
well its not perfect due to the 50mm difference which is why I asked. I suppose that's what everyone uses and just ignores the angle issue.
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they show how fully sick he is.
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Dude, give more info on what you did and about the car!
so you changed coil packs which made it good for a few days?
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i'm just about to buy a rear bar myself. Its a series 2 auto rwd.
Is the white line bar the best option? those links don't look the best.
Sorry for thread jack
I suppose you could add some spacers and use longer bolts to reduce the angle.
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I know that, but according to the post I quoted, somehow it does.
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I run a 600 by 300 by 75 greddy intercooler and the change in repsonsiveness isn't even noticeable. Best idea too. Car runs better. Idles better. Just better in general
How does the intercooler affect the idle? ?
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Possible AFM issue? Do you have the NisTune software? Most sensors/acc etc. can be monitored on the consult panel. You'd think a cold log would detect a sensor issue. Particularly if it comes good once warm.
Thread resurrection!
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Did your tuner check for leaks/smoke test it before tuning?
I am going to say no. Surely someone wouldn't check for leaks, find heaps, then tune anyway!
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All sorted. Ended up running 6 or 8 gauge cable through directly to pump. As my connector was melted, i managed to pull out one of the terminals easily and drill a hole, the other side was a bit harder but managed to drill a hole there also. Squeezed the cables through the holes, then filled up the socket with epoxy.
Got a plug off a mate, a 50amp Anderson plug, its fairly big and way overkill but will certainly do the job!
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That could work well, but I think you will have trouble soldering them as they are pretty deep in the socket, but worth a shot.
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Seriously? well its 20% more capacity for a start.Hey got a question.. Im going to give my rb25det neo a fresh rebuild and will be using it for both street and drift. What's the advantage if any of using the rb30 bottom end? Or should i just stick with the rb25?
Opinions ?
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When an engine is built, critical tolerances are measured, including bore to piston clearance.
If your engine was assembled with that out of spec, I would run as fast as possible from that guy!
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Cheers guys. I was aware of the extra current draw, but I suppose I was just hoping for the best
I have already wired it directly to the battery , cant remember the size but it was definitely suitable.
i am going to get some epoxy tomorrow, (after I check to see if I already have some) and a decent connector.
Was planning on drilling out the existing socket to run the wires through there, that way the epoxy can pool up in the recess nicely
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Hi all
A few weeks ago I installed an E85 Walbro 460lph pump, directly fed from battery, and had car tuned.
When pump was installed, I was surprised how quiet it was. Over the last few days I noticed it become slightly louder, nothing serious, but thought it was a little strange.
Drove home from work, all good, went to move car and no go. Could hear fuel pump not pumping, but could hear relays clicking. Pretty pumped that it decided not to go while I was at home and didn't need to go anywhere!
Checked all wiring, and power was being supplied to the pump. I still had the old pump so decided to swap it over so I could drive the car. When I pulled out the pump I noticed the plug going to the fuel tank lid was melted, along with the plug underneath going to the pump. This is the reason the pump was not working, confirmed with a multi meter. I still refitted old pump as I am now worried about current draw.
The plug/socket that has melted has now actually got a leak to the fuel tank, which is an issue!
This is in a Stagea, not sure if the tank is similar to Skylines. I have searched but not found anything.
Now I am wondering what to do. I need to buy a new lid, and don't really want to run an external pump.
Maybe it was just a freak occurrence and wont happen again (dirty plug?)
I have considered modifying the damaged lid and running thick gauge cables through directly and epoxying them in, but not sure how it would go with the fuel.
So my current options are
1- Replace damaged bits and hope it doesn't happen again.
2- Run an external pump
3- modify lid to accept larger cables.
I am open to any suggestions / comments
Cheers,
Ben
EDIT
Noticed there are heaps of fuel safe epoxies.
I think I will go for option 3
Pics, didnt take a pic of the internal plug.
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Well i would be getting out sorted asap. Goes to show you can't cheap out on a rebuild, ends up choosing mire doing it twice. What about the other parts you claim are pretty much new? Maybe revisit those when its apart the second time.
Can I Bolt New Turbo On Without Doing Injectors First.?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Wow. You didn't know caps lock was on? Really.....?