sonicz
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Posts posted by sonicz
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The hissing is normal bro just means there is no fuel system leaks.
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Why rip apart a well preserved original car just for the sake of having a manual when r33 autos are some of the best auto boxes in the world. Ive owned both and i prefer autos actually for a daily. And they are not slower provided you havent put in some new slick smooth shifting fluid. They boost up and just hold the boost whereas manual is very hit and miss. Ive seen s1s r33s make 400k on original auto box handling a boosted engine for decades.
The only thing i miss with manual is clutch dumping but for a daily thats not sensible anyway.l and in traffic auto blows manual anyday
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Just get poly subframe bushes and engine mounts and fit as much chassis bracing bits as you can in addition to a half cage. Look at gktech for aftermarket control arms.
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Its finished! Sort of... I have yet to take the car on a proper test drive but from initial impressions its all connected up and runs nicely.
After making a lot of silly mistakes, and only finished it last weekend (but theres till a bit more to do on the car non turbo related).
There was a lot of smoke on initial start up. Both out of exhaust (due to old blown turbo oil residue), and from engine bay turbo area, which I was freaking out over. I then realized its due to the wd40 is sprayed all over the exhaust bolts nuts etc burning off. It had a "new turbo smell" but it eventually cleared after only 3 or 4 min up the car warmed up and it sounded clean and sounded like it boosted great. I have yet to take it for a test drive hopefully will this weekend.
Made many mistakes and a lot of things had to be customly piped, new hoses, silicone adapters etc brackets,
I also forgot a single washer on one side of the coolant pipe on the turbo, facing the engine, and we thought we are all done hooked it all back piping everything, and while filling the radiator it was just pissing on the floor without realizing it. Lost all my expensive coolant etc. Then I forgot the heat exhaust manifold shield so if it had to come again and lots of things like that.
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If it means anything to you my rb25 s1 stock turbo blew up a few months back. Farty whoosy noise is exactly the words i used to describe it. So yea at least 1 is probably blown.
On a related note, I could have bought a R33 GTR for 14k about 5 years ago good condition not fantastic but good. f**k me they have gone up in value. It was white and I dont like like white so I left it. I regret it now would have been worth 35-40k. Unbelievable looks like I will never buy a GTR now unless i get crazy rich from a miracle.
Even r32 gtst are going for 15k now. lol wut they used to be 4-5k 6 years ago.
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Thanks for all the input. I have enough information now to finish it. Ill post again how it went once the car is up and running.
The instructions that came with the turbo that I did not even read up until now as it was in the box say "Do not remove the oil restrictor". It supports my decision to leave the restriction in. Whether its the right decision or not I'm not sure but it would be stupid to take out something which both the turbo instructions and seller says not to. If the turbo blow it blows and I will get a stock one. Cant return or sell the ebay one now anyway they are not worth anything "used" even though it has never been run.
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Yea I found a original one. Just in case it wasnt clear i was trying to find out why the orignal turbo blew up. the new turbo did not blow up.
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Thats probably the toughest coolant hose to fix on the car. It runs from the turbo coolant return, I believe there may be a Y piece that shares the return line and it runs up the the back of the head area near the firewall and past the gearbox area..
Maybe this pic can give you some idea of the layout back there
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1 hour ago, hy_rpm said:
Mate your too stubborn gotta learn the hard way when it blows up
just save the headache and take it to a professional you cleary dont know what your doing or want to listen
I told you at the start drill out the factory banjo
The restrictor that comes in the turbo leave it in and if it blows up just return it to them for warranty as thats what came with it
If you remove it will void warrantyOk this makes perfect sense to me. We agree im not taking out the internal restrictor that came with the turbo. Thats sorted.
So i just drill out the banjo bolt for the oil line thats at the top of the turbo to about 3mm. Sorted.
What about the banjo oil bolt thats connected to the engine block? 3mm as well? I beleive one of the bolts had a big hole already so i just need to drill out the small holed bolt on the turbo side from memory but correct me if im wrong.
Ive already fixed the oil drain hose kink by cutting the pipe.
f*ken easy as and clear when said that way. Not simply remove the restrictor. Thankyou.
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4 hours ago, Yeedogga said:
1. How does the research not help?!
2.How does the turbo manufacturer's answer not help?!
3.Don't use a restrictor. Simple.
4The turbo is obviously not designed to use the factory oil feed. For turbo longevity you need a new oil feed that doesnt have a restrictor.
But given your response to everyone else's advice thus far I think I'll leave you to it.1.Because the answer isn't conclusive. Its not black and white like will these wheels fit this stud pattern yes or no.. Ive even seen lots of people on youtube run restrictors in their ebay turbos and they claim success and reliability for years. On the other hand people such as you and the article you posted say for journal turbos take out restrictions.
2. Because Manufacturer says to leave restrict or in. Therefore manufacturer says to run a restrictor. It came with one as I've stated many times.
3.But it really isn't. Ok I can take out the restrictor that is screwed into the turbo, looks like I need a flathead screwdriver and it will come out. But this is going against what the turbo came with from the Factory and this is against what they said when I asked them. Ok fair enough lets say I take it out. Furthermore, there is a restrictor in the stock oil banjo bolt. Ok sure I can get a new oil feel and that leads me to point 4.
4. Heck Even the aftermarket oil feed lines seem to come with restrictors.
Even says for Journal bearng turbo.
Figure that?
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looking atm everyone says i threw it out.
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As thread title suggests.
Took car to mechanic, got it back with entire PCV vavle and S shaped hose attached to it missing. Mechanic says "we broke that sorry, just stuff a rag in the hole to stop the smoke"
I did that and drove around like that for a few days. Turbo slowly "died" after a day or two blowing smoke, no boost and farty whirry sound.
I thought It was a water line they didn't fit while flushing engine block etc that blew turbo but it seems it may have been the PCV?
No i did not take it back to them to demand I fix it. I haven't spoken to them for months. It did not even get a receipt since i have been using them for many years. I did not want to bother at the time but Only now i realized shit could that have been the reason the turbo blew?
I glued it back together and it doesnt smoke anymore but I dont trust it better get a new one? It may block oil draining out of turbo due to excessive pressure in crank, correct?
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On 10/8/2017 at 10:13 AM, Yeedogga said:
OP: Do some research and learn what purpose the restrictor actually serves. It will answer all of your questions.
This is a good start:
https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/oil_restrictorThat doesn't answer anything definitely, it just confuses the matter. It basically says BB turbos need a restriction but journal ones dont. If I were to go by research I would need to remove the restrictors since my ebay turbo is a journal bearing. However the stock oil bolt which I am re using IS a restrictor, and nobody has told me what to use instead of that bolt. In addition to this, the turbo itself has a restrictor deep inside it. I conacted the seller of the turbo on the matter. Their words
"The turbo you order does not need an extra oil restrictor, their is a oil restrictor onside"
Literally the opposite. Research does jack all to help here, just need to flip a coin or take the easy way which is leaving it as it is with a restrictor in the turbo oil thread and the stock bolt.I dont think anyone knows whats is actually best in this case.
According to the article worst case scenario it just reduces the life of the turbo, instead of blowing oil which i do not want to deal with so decision is made.
On a update, I managed to fit the missing bolt to the turbo and cut the oil drain hose and file it off to fit over the bolt as can be seen in bottom right of pic. Hopefully goes on ok next time i go to see the car and try fit it back on.
keep in mind i am doing all this with the turbo attached to the car and all bolts +piping. Not easy. In fact incredible infuriating Gotta find a way to supersglue the gasket to the oil drain hose so it doesn't move around when fitting it. I hate gaskets without a insert for them.
Oh and taking the metal pipe of the blue oil drain hose was ridiculous. That hose even though it says 19mm feels WAYYYYY to snug for this application I hardly got it on but after days of sitting there I could have suspected my body-weight on the 2cm it was holding onto the metal oil with no clamp. FARKKKKK.
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Thanks, looks like I will have to buy from kudos, unless they can be found for cheaper? God damn another $50.
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cos they are ussualy cluless and just resell some part a turbo dustributor out of china has sold to them in bulk.
Tho its worth a shot. Will do.
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3 hours ago, Yeedogga said:
I think the stock oil feed has a restrictor in built in the banjo bolt.
I would suggest leaving the restrictor out if its a journal bearing turbo.
Yea I think you are right. Keep in mind i did not know a single thing about this so learning for the first time. From memory the oil feed bolt had a hole about 2 to 3mm in diameter. So this is the stock setups way of using a restrictor.. I reused that bolt.
You say you recommend leaving the restrictor "out".
Im not trying to be an ass but this is confusing and i want to double check i understand you properly.
The new turbo had what looked like a restrictor already in place when it arrived. So i would be taking it out not leaving it it out. I have to assume Whoever made the turbo put it in for a reason so i just want to double check that you understand i did not fit a restrictor to the turbo myself.
Secondly as you also mention the stock bolt us itself a restrictor. So do you mean take that out too by drilling out hole? How big? Its currently about 2 to 3mm from memory.
Now i dont know if the turbo is meant to be run with a restrictor with stock lines and stock bolt OR if they assumed you will be running some huge aftermarket lines and a bolt with a HuGE hole in it no restrictor and thats why they put a restrictor i? I have nfi about any of this and not sure if the suggestions here are taking all that into account.
Should I unscrew the restrictor in the turbo AND drill out the stock oil line bolt that has a tiny hole in it?
Because otherwise i dont know how i would take all the restriction out if im using the stock bolt..
You also say if the restrictor is in place the pressure will be too high and blow past the seals, but i thought the whole point of the restictor was to reduce pressure and stop this from happeninf not increase it. But you say if i leave the restrictor in it will blow past the seals which is the exact opposite.
I dont understand the process fully. Maybe if the restictor is in place BEFOre the turbo and then it opens up inside the turbo its easier in the seals which makes sense.
I hope you see why im confused as to what to do with the oil line setup.
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Nevermind ill just shorten the pipe by about 7cm that way it wont even matter which way its facing. F it probably never using the stock silver oil drain hose again anyway.
I now have all the parts i need the last thing left unanswered is whether i need the oil restrictor in the ebay turbo.?
I dont even recall the STOCK turbo having an oil restrictor and thats a Ball bearing turbo and you guys are saying BB needs oil restrictor and journal bearing doesnt so what gives?
Its literally the opposite now lol. Do you only need an oil restrictpr with thick aftermarket oil lines or even using the stock metal ones cos they are pretty thin and may be a restruction on their own?
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7 hours ago, hy_rpm said:
Why dont you just cut the oil drain metal pipe shorter so it the hose wont have to bend so sharp
Yea i was gonna try do that tommorow hopefully. I was thinking of bending it. You recomend cutting it and bending it or just bending it/cutting it?
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7 hours ago, inmaniac said:
You're complicating this bro... Do you want it done or do you want it done right?
You want it done... So, from what I can see, the kink isn't too big of a drama. I would replace if possible. Secondly, no, the reducer on the intake won't noticeably harm your performance at wastegate boost pressure. As I replied above, get a reducer and a pipe so you can connect.
IIRC wastegate pressure for that turbo was between 10-12 PSI.
Just want it done.
I usually want things done right, if not I dont do them at all. However this is an unusual case since it was never planned. So I just want it done, to a minimum viable product. but Viable is key here. I'm not gonna hook it up and run it if something is obviously wrong.
The doing it right ship has long sailed. If i wanted to do it "right" that I would have got a name brand turbo or a hi flow. So i dont need to be as good as it possibly can be, it just want to be "ok"
The kink is actually a lot worse than it looks from that angle. It blocks about 90% of the hose diamtre, leaving only a few mm of free space inside instead say 20mm.
My plan next time i go work on the car is to take the metal oil drain pipe of the turbo somehow while its still on the car and bend it to the right shape with some vice grips and persuasion. I hope this goes ok for me.
Ok I will order a reducer over ebay, should come in the mail by Wednesday, and I also need to find a 2inch steel pipe, about 10cm in length I would say..?
Its not like that on the previous setup. There is no hose connected to the turbo afaik.
Pmed.
1 hour ago, hy_rpm said:You bought the line kit seperate from the turbo or using the factory lines?
I cant see a new ball bearing turbo going for $280 it will definatly be bush/journal bearingWhat kit? I'm using the factory lines.
its not a ball bearing. Its definitely a journal one. See above I posted its specs. Still though, it CAME with the reducer installed deep down in the oil drain line. I'm assuming its because the seals are made of "cheese", Yeedogga.
Besides, all the youtubers I see running ebay turbos seem to run it with a oil restrictor.
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I was just thinking, instead of having the stock oil return metal pipe hanging of the new turbo and causing a kink, can I just use a fitting like this to the bottom of the turbo and just run the oil return like straight to the engine block no metal hose?
Whats the correct size? 18.5 side hoe?
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HP: Capable of Boosting Horse Power up to 430HP Cooling Type: Water + Oil Internal Wastegate Actuator Setting Up to 21.75psi Exhaust Inlet (Turbo Manifold) Flange: 4 bolts Flange Exhaust Outlet (Downpipe) Flange: 6 bolts Flange Oil Inlet M12*1.25 side hole: M8*38.1
Oil Return 18.5 / side hoe:M8*1.2 Center-center: 50.9
Water Hole M18*1.5
Compressor Inducer Diamter 52.7mm Exducer Diamter 76.2mm A/R 0.5 Turbine Inducer Diamter 65.2mm Exducer Diamter 48.2mm A/R 0.63 Additional Details: Bearing: Wet Float Warranty: 1 Year Internal Wastegate: Yes Accessories: You will get exactly as shown in the picture above -
6 hours ago, hy_rpm said:
Trust if you going to stay standard power and not boost past 12psi the standard turbo is the best option as its ball bearing
Most responsive and more reliable than that ebay turbo
Its going to be laggy and unreliable
Just make sure you remove the stock oil line and banjo bolts if you use the ebay turbo as its bush bearing and will blow up the turbo as it restricts oil flow
Other way around if you decide to go back to a stock turboWhat do you mean remove the stock oil line and banjo bolts? Thats how i hooked up the turbo!
I was actually going to ask about the restrictor. The ebay turbo came with a oil flow restrictor installed deep inside the oil line socket. It looked like this
But had a flat head obviously to take it in and out. I LEFT it it. I was thinking of taking it out but didn't. Why would it come with one if it didn't need it?
So you are saying for ebay turbo REMOVE the oil restrict or thats in the turbo? The banjo fittings is all I have so what do you mean remove them? Do you mean get like rubber hoses for the water and oil lines?
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On 10/4/2017 at 6:59 AM, GeeDog said:
The blue hose on the actuator is the on the nipple you are looking for - you just need to route it from the boost source (the turbo housing or the original source nipple, depending on what you do with the intake pipe) through your boost controller and back on to the actuator.
Re the ebay silicone intake pipe - I'm not convinced this won't also suck shut. I've got an alloy one that came from ebay, but I don't think they are available anymore. I'd contact Scotty's Customs - he makes a very nice metal replacement.
On 10/4/2017 at 11:37 AM, GTSBoy said:Per all the above. The boost source for boost control is off the turbo outlet. The place where boost control happens is at the actuator. Hence the simplest way to make that happen is to connect one to the other. The boost signal then pushes the actuator to open the wastegate. But it offers no adjustability. So the way to obtain that is to take the signal from the source, bleed some of it off and pass the reduced signal to the actuator. Presto, now the actuator sees a lower boost than the engine sees and you can happily run higher boost than the actuator is sprung for. But, and this is a very important but, you cannot decrease boost below what the wastegate actuator is sprung for. If you have a 14 psi spring in there now, then 14 is the minimum. Hence all my cautions about not tuning etc etc in earlier posts.
And to go back to the topic of the inlet elbow, you should never use soft silicone bends there. Call Scotty, buy whatever he makes. It doesn't matter what it costs, it is the only reasonable way for you to achieve your goal (of getting it all fitted together and running).
So lets just see if I got this right...
The way the Turbo is set up now from the factory, connected to itself, it is running the lowest possible boost it can. I.e the wastegate flap will open as quickly and as much as it can whenever the actuator spring reaches its preset boost (Can anyone have a guess at what PSI that will work out to be btw?) . This is because it is getting a perfect reference boost reading direct from the turbo with no bleed of happening between the reference boost and the actuator (duh its connected to itself)
If I want to continue using my boost controller so I can go above that lowest possible psi, I will need to take of the current blue hose off the ebay turbo actuator nipple (wtf kind of clamps are those? ) and block off the loose end of the blue hose somehow with a bolt etc so there is no leak. Then hook up the vacuum like coming from boost controller that was going to the stock turbo Actuator, to the actuator nipple of the new turbo that I just took the hose of. That will give me back my current boost control layout.
The stock turbo does not have a place where a line vacuum connects to itself, therefore I assume my boost controller and the stock turbo actuator is getting its reference boost from another location beside the turbo, I assume somewhere upstream of the turbo boost, and I guess I can just continue using this depending on what i do with my piping ofcourse.
I THINK I got that all down perfect?
What I dont understand is how adjusting that nut on the actuator rod does. I'm sure it adjust the spring tension and affects how easily the flap opens, but doesn't that itself affect boost, and anything to be gained by adjusting it? Or totally leave it alone?
Hesitation when throttle is jabbed quickly - S1 TPS in S2 R33 RB25
in General Maintenance
Posted · Edited by sonicz
Too high or too low fuel pressure can also cause this im addition to the two step voltage the ecu is able to provide the fuel pump. If its a aftermarket one it wont flow the same as stock on low/high voltage switching.
Thats what it was for me and it had nothing to do with tps