sonicz

Too high or too low fuel pressure can also cause this im addition to the two step voltage the ecu is able to provide the fuel pump. If its a aftermarket one it wont flow the same as stock on low/high voltage switching. Thats what it was for me and it had nothing to do with tps

The hissing is normal bro just means there is no fuel system leaks.

Why rip apart a well preserved original car just for the sake of having a manual when r33 autos are some of the best auto boxes in the world. Ive owned both and i prefer autos actually for a daily. And they are not slower provided you havent put in some new slick smooth shifting fluid. They boost up and just hold the boost whereas manual is very hit and miss. Ive seen s1s r33s make 400k on original auto box handling a boosted engine for decades. The only thing i miss with manual is clutch dumping but for a daily thats not sensible anyway.l and in traffic auto blows manual anyday

Just get poly subframe bushes and engine mounts and fit as much chassis bracing bits as you can in addition to a half cage. Look at gktech for aftermarket control arms.

Its finished! Sort of... I have yet to take the car on a proper test drive but from initial impressions its all connected up and runs nicely. After making a lot of silly mistakes, and only finished it last weekend (but theres till a bit more to do on the car non turbo related). There was a lot of smoke on initial start up. Both out of exhaust (due to old blown turbo oil residue), and from engine bay turbo area, which I was freaking out over. I then realized its due to the wd40 is sprayed all over the exhaust bolts nuts etc burning off. It had a "new turbo smell" but it eventually cleared after only 3 or 4 min up the car warmed up and it sounded clean and sounded like it boosted great. I have yet to take it for a test drive hopefully will this weekend. Made many mistakes and a lot of things had to be customly piped, new hoses, silicone adapters etc brackets, I also forgot a single washer on one side of the coolant pipe on the turbo, facing the engine, and we thought we are all done hooked it all back piping everything, and while filling the radiator it was just pissing on the floor without realizing it. Lost all my expensive coolant etc. Then I forgot the heat exhaust manifold shield so if it had to come again and lots of things like that.

If it means anything to you my rb25 s1 stock turbo blew up a few months back. Farty whoosy noise is exactly the words i used to describe it. So yea at least 1 is probably blown. On a related note, I could have bought a R33 GTR for 14k about 5 years ago good condition not fantastic but good. f**k me they have gone up in value. It was white and I dont like like white so I left it. I regret it now would have been worth 35-40k. Unbelievable looks like I will never buy a GTR now unless i get crazy rich from a miracle. Even r32 gtst are going for 15k now. lol wut they used to be 4-5k 6 years ago.

Thanks for all the input. I have enough information now to finish it. Ill post again how it went once the car is up and running. The instructions that came with the turbo that I did not even read up until now as it was in the box say "Do not remove the oil restrictor". It supports my decision to leave the restriction in. Whether its the right decision or not I'm not sure but it would be stupid to take out something which both the turbo instructions and seller says not to. If the turbo blow it blows and I will get a stock one. Cant return or sell the ebay one now anyway they are not worth anything "used" even though it has never been run.

Yea I found a original one. Just in case it wasnt clear i was trying to find out why the orignal turbo blew up. the new turbo did not blow up.

Thats probably the toughest coolant hose to fix on the car. It runs from the turbo coolant return, I believe there may be a Y piece that shares the return line and it runs up the the back of the head area near the firewall and past the gearbox area.. Maybe this pic can give you some idea of the layout back there

Ok this makes perfect sense to me. We agree im not taking out the internal restrictor that came with the turbo. Thats sorted. So i just drill out the banjo bolt for the oil line thats at the top of the turbo to about 3mm. Sorted. What about the banjo oil bolt thats connected to the engine block? 3mm as well? I beleive one of the bolts had a big hole already so i just need to drill out the small holed bolt on the turbo side from memory but correct me if im wrong. Ive already fixed the oil drain hose kink by cutting the pipe. f*ken easy as and clear when said that way. Not simply remove the restrictor. Thankyou.

1.Because the answer isn't conclusive. Its not black and white like will these wheels fit this stud pattern yes or no.. Ive even seen lots of people on youtube run restrictors in their ebay turbos and they claim success and reliability for years. On the other hand people such as you and the article you posted say for journal turbos take out restrictions. 2. Because Manufacturer says to leave restrict or in. Therefore manufacturer says to run a restrictor. It came with one as I've stated many times. 3.But it really isn't. Ok I can take out the restrictor that is screwed into the turbo, looks like I need a flathead screwdriver and it will come out. But this is going against what the turbo came with from the Factory and this is against what they said when I asked them. Ok fair enough lets say I take it out. Furthermore, there is a restrictor in the stock oil banjo bolt. Ok sure I can get a new oil feel and that leads me to point 4. 4. Heck Even the aftermarket oil feed lines seem to come with restrictors. Even says for Journal bearng turbo. Figure that? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Feed-Line-Nissan-RB20DET-RB25DET-SKYLINE-w-GREDDY-TD05H-TD06-18G-20G-/172643956510?hash=item283261b71e:g:CHcAAOSw9NxTsqh0

looking atm everyone says i threw it out.

As thread title suggests. Took car to mechanic, got it back with entire PCV vavle and S shaped hose attached to it missing. Mechanic says "we broke that sorry, just stuff a rag in the hole to stop the smoke" I did that and drove around like that for a few days. Turbo slowly "died" after a day or two blowing smoke, no boost and farty whirry sound. I thought It was a water line they didn't fit while flushing engine block etc that blew turbo but it seems it may have been the PCV? No i did not take it back to them to demand I fix it. I haven't spoken to them for months. It did not even get a receipt since i have been using them for many years. I did not want to bother at the time but Only now i realized shit could that have been the reason the turbo blew? I glued it back together and it doesnt smoke anymore but I dont trust it better get a new one? It may block oil draining out of turbo due to excessive pressure in crank, correct?

That doesn't answer anything definitely, it just confuses the matter. It basically says BB turbos need a restriction but journal ones dont. If I were to go by research I would need to remove the restrictors since my ebay turbo is a journal bearing. However the stock oil bolt which I am re using IS a restrictor, and nobody has told me what to use instead of that bolt. In addition to this, the turbo itself has a restrictor deep inside it. I conacted the seller of the turbo on the matter. Their words "The turbo you order does not need an extra oil restrictor, their is a oil restrictor onside" Literally the opposite. Research does jack all to help here, just need to flip a coin or take the easy way which is leaving it as it is with a restrictor in the turbo oil thread and the stock bolt.I dont think anyone knows whats is actually best in this case. According to the article worst case scenario it just reduces the life of the turbo, instead of blowing oil which i do not want to deal with so decision is made. On a update, I managed to fit the missing bolt to the turbo and cut the oil drain hose and file it off to fit over the bolt as can be seen in bottom right of pic. Hopefully goes on ok next time i go to see the car and try fit it back on. keep in mind i am doing all this with the turbo attached to the car and all bolts +piping. Not easy. In fact incredible infuriating Gotta find a way to supersglue the gasket to the oil drain hose so it doesn't move around when fitting it. I hate gaskets without a insert for them. Oh and taking the metal pipe of the blue oil drain hose was ridiculous. That hose even though it says 19mm feels WAYYYYY to snug for this application I hardly got it on but after days of sitting there I could have suspected my body-weight on the 2cm it was holding onto the metal oil with no clamp. FARKKKKK.

Thanks, looks like I will have to buy from kudos, unless they can be found for cheaper? God damn another $50.