Ender

So if it only takes one minute...just drive normally for one minute before you stop....surely you dont drag race to your house and then turn the engine off... I guess it all depends how you treat your car...I dont mean you treat your car badly...I think a few minutes of slower driving before you stop is far more beneficial than a couple of minutes on a TT.

Thanks for the vid... You are absolutly right, I wasn't considering people in the country, You would benefit in your circumstance. I just know to get a turbo to the temp where you need a TT is out of the scope of most skylines in a suburban setting (where I assume most of them are) unless you are being a bit of a dickhead...and on top of that you have to then switch it off immediatly as well.... Anyway I see your point, I am only repeating my opinion that most people dont need one and they are mostly a waste of money for the average person, however there are people like yourself DAMQIk who would find one indispensible, if thats how you drive. By the way I wish I lived somewhere I could drive like that everywhere....no really. Cheers, Russ

Excellent...just what I needed to know.... What volume pot do you have...2-3litres....is this enough? Thanks Russ

When in your stop start driving might your turbo be red hot? Or hot enough to seize the turbo, all at the point where you switch off the engine? I understand why turbo timers are made and what they are supposed to do...what I dont agree with is that under normal or even spirited driving in a road car in suburban melbourne you can work the turbo hard enough to get it to a stage where a TT would be Neccesary, and tyhen switch off your engine at this point.... Anyway, I am not advocating you dont get one....I just think on the whole for a road car driven on a daily basis they are not neccesary or helpful...just be kind to your engine. Russ

Well if you can get your turbo red hot and keep it that way all the way to your house where you mostly shut it off then yes a turbo timer would suit you....I haven't had that problem. If this was the case as it appears to be is 1-3 extra minutes idling going to make enough difference? Cheers, Russ

Thanks heaps, I was a fitter/machinist in a previous life so I figure it cant be that hard to do....its just knowing where to be careful and where it doesn't matter so much that is harder... Thanks... Russ

Will be for both so I just figure I might as well do the best option.....

I have a number of temp gauges and more often than not if you have just been driving averagly and you pull up and idle, the temp gauges go up...not down, idling (unless you have a couple of efficient thermo fans) is not an effective cooling strategy. The reason turbo timers were invented is to give engines which have high temperature diferentials in their parts a chance to minimize this differential not to cool them down.... The bottom line is....they are not designed to cool the engine down, idling does not do this, if you dont believe me...half empty your radiator, when you idle the temp goes sky high...when you drive it comes down again. Cheers Russ

I will be building an RB20det with 2.2 capacity, forged pistons rods etc, 2540 or so turbo, I take the car to the track once a month etc and thought the addition of a swirl pot may also save me from leaning out, I figured it was more likely that the pump might come out of the petrol in the tank than for the 044 to die. It was more due to having a swirl pot than the fact that the 044 wouldn't pump enough....a 910 might be enough too.... Not a matter of need, but want, I was more wondering if the setup I had in mind is how it is done in terms of where things are placed etc... Cheers, Russ

A turbo on a road car just doesn't operate for very long, whats the longest you accelerate flat out for...certainly never more than ten secs or so....and when you do this you certainly never are in a position to turn the car off straight after you have done this. The turbo just doesn't have an opportunity to get that hot in that short space of time.....track is different, but then as a previous post said....you should be cooling the entire car down not just the turbo etc.... Most turbos on road cars are also cooled with coolant too not just oil. Anyway, I think they are largely a gimmick, they wont hurt your engine but you can spend the money elsewhere, just drive within the law for the last 2 km or so before you get home and youll be more than fine. Russ

Hi all, Does anybody ahve a swirlpot in their car?? I am specifically wondering if the stock fuel pump is enough to pump into the pot with a 044 or 910 bosch to pump to the fuel rail...This way I figure you can leave the standard pump in the tank and have the return line and the standard pump filling the pot with the high pressure/flow pump feeding the rail.... Is this correct or am I up the proverbial creek?? Cheers, Russ

I have worked on heavy diesel engines and turbo timers are used in these engines...they are ...IMHO...a bit useless in normal roadgoing cars...you never drive hard enough to wartrant a turbo timer... obviously you do not drive nonstop up a huge hill flat out then switch your engine off immediatly...if you do you do not deserve to own a sky;ine.... Turbo timers were designed for use in Heavy diesel machinery where the turbos are huge, take ages to spool down and are operated pretty much flat out when they are working, then often switched off after a hard work period leavoing the turbo and associated metal work at a much higher temp than some of the surrounding material, the only coolant it has is oil, usually a bush typebearing and not coolant cooled as in many road cars and also amuch less kind operator. Unless you are quite unkind to your engine you are not in any danger of hurting it without a turbo timer. Russ

So this is the best we can do....noone has had a go at building their own engines...Noone has looked into it and found a good book or website.... Ok...when I have finished I will post some information so others can learn from my crappy mistakes... Russ Russ

I have noticed that many people say they assume their car has X rwkw or whatever ...they then go to the dyno and are dissappointed at the result. Most people over estimate their rwkw by a considerable margin...the car is still the same though, if it felt good to drive before the dyno run...it is still the same afterwards. I have to say that dyno figures would have to be a very average indicator of on road performance...It is a great way to tune your engine but high rwkw does not by itself relate to a great drive. I guess my point is dont be dissappointed in your car just because it shows some lower numbers than you expect.

Hi all, I am seeing if it would be possible for me to build a 2.2 rb20det myself.... I have a good mechanical knowledge but no actual engine building experience... I am hoping people who have built their own engines might be able to help me figure if this is possible for me to do or if I am 'dreamin mate'. Could anyone who has built their own engines share any experiences, Also after advice as to where I might learn how...ie books you found useful, videos...websites etc which you thought helped you.... Thanks heaps, Russ

I dont have any pics...they are hella rally 1000's, two in vg condition and two in good condition, the difference just being the glass in the lens is a bit sand blasted in the worse set, They have full glass face, retail for 160 I believe....100 watt globes, round just like any driving lights really...if your interested be quick cause it all goes in the rubbish skip on wednesday... Not trying to rush you but that is the case. Russ

I agree, After speaking to aybee on the weekend I had a look at mine and my repeaters are the same, rough as dogshit actually. I got mine complied at Carizma. after having the car for a while you can see quite a few dodgy things...but what do you do...there is no recourse for this crap...just buyer beware... Russ

Yes I know....However I have beaten hyabusas around phillip island when I had an RGV250...he would haul some serious arse down the straight but I d catch them around the back no problems....in a straight line though those things are like a jet. I went for a ride on a new R6 today...very nice and nimble...excellent bike, might have to look at getting one again... Russ

10 - 15 years at a guess, Its just a plain 2 stroke victa no catcher, I dont have any pics, sorry, not going, but was going 1 or so months ago, nothing major wrong with it, just spark plug or something?? hence the price...or make an offer, it all goes in the skip next week.... Cheers, Russ

I am a little ignorant, but does this bolt to a rb20?? Thanks...

I was just taking it to the computer and I scratched it on a ****ing brick ...now it has scratches on it.......It hasnt ever had an impact though... It is a 60/L size....I say go to a shop and try one of this size...then you know for sure... I dont have a digital camera so dont have pics now for you...I will try and take some and get them on a cd ...hmmm shouldha thought about that sooner..sorry..

No takers unfortunately...great drive though...a little wet but no cops..... Blew my turbo while racing two R6's up there...doh...ahh well time for a better one obviously. Hope to have some company next time.... See ya, Russ

All this goes into the rubbish on wednesday if you are interested make and offer will be cheap, it feels like a waste to throw it away Hi there...alll must go or it all goes into the skip....wifes orders. Feel free to make an offer.....prefer melbourne buyers only * 1 TK1 Kayak blue average condition...$100 * Life vest for kayak....$30 * 1 Racing bike, blue and white, suntour edge gearsets, ally wheels great brakes etc, cost 1200 to build sell $100 cause it is dirty. Can throw in pair of clipless shoes if they fit you and a helmet. * 1 bosch flymo..electric lawn mower $350 new in good condition sell $50 * 1 victa 2 stroke lawnmower...ran 1 month ago..not going now...nothing fundamentally wrong $20 * 1 dryrider jacket..red and blue...as new L size ...$100 * 1 Mars leather bike jacket red and black ..$80 * 1 Vemar motorbike helmet,middle of the range type helmet, grey ...never dropped or crashed I would not sell it if it had been, almost new....$100 Cheers, Russ

All this goes into the rubbish on wednesday if you are interested make and offer will be cheap, it feels like a waste to throw it away HI there, various bits and pieces for sale from r32 gtst....All has to go or it goes into the skip next week. prefer melbourne buyers only. * air conditioner compressor $50 * hydraulic hicas ram $50 * standard intercooler and piping $80 the lotSOLD * 4 Rally 1000 driving lights, 2 spread beam and 2 pencil beam $50 each * 2 15" intercepter rims 4x100 pcd suit toyota corrolla or honda with 80% kelly charger 205-50-15's if you want them...come and get them * 2 active spoiler motors, working + active spoiler...all off r32 gtst $50 the lot * Set of lowered springs and shocks for r32 gtst..potenza street. $250 the lot... Russ

Opps will be leaving ringwood ish area at 12 or 1 int he afternoon... am flexible though to a certain degree... Cheers, Russ