ECR033
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Posts posted by ECR033
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Nizmo Freek, it's simple...
Obviously the kit can be made to sit higher than the way it appears on my car. Dezz's pic above is a perfect example - don't ask me how he did it though (unless his mounting bracket is different to the one I received - I bought mine brand new 3 years ago, so perhaps the bracket has been revised, or more likely I've got the incorrect bracket or done something incorrect when installing).
Without going to the trouble of pulling my front bar off (don't ask, I'd love to help, but I won't do it), I think you've got about as much info as you're going to get to help with your decision.
If you're still worried about the return pipe being too low or you're considering substantially lowering your car, then perhaps you should consider a different FMIC.
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Just happened to stumble across this thread - better late than never though...
The silver 33 on the first page is my car and yes it's a genuine Blitz LM FMIC.
Admittedly, I've always thought my FMIC sat a little low, but I've never given it more thought as I personally don't mind the way it looks and as my car isn't particularly low, I vary rarely scrape the return pipe (only done it a couple of times when I wasn't thinking...very minor).
I did need to relocate the horn to accomodate the mounting bracket and the cooler is mounted directly to the mounting bracket, so I'm not sure how it's possible to mount it any higher (other than angling the bottom of the FMIC towards the rear of the car). Perhaps I was supplied with the incorrect mounting bracket...
Otherwise, my setup looked very similar to the pics posted by Ol Mate above.
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I'm using a Turbonetics 40mm on a HKS low-mount manifold (see below)...
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Can you guys who are breaking 12s with around 200rwkw and lower post a pic of your slip?
Im very interesting in 60foot times and ET MPH.
Cheers
Back in the day ~ 185rwkw
ET: 12.993
MPH: 104.40
60': 1.777
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Sorry...I might have mis-understood the object of the drag strip...
Is it not the first to cross the line?..
Are we not at the drag strip when we record this time?
My I am bad.
...lol..Take everything back
Yes, we're talking about racing at a drag strip (where else are you going to race?).
Obviously if you are competing in a competition and racing the guy in the other lane, then reaction time is very important in winning the race. The topic of this thread doesn't relate to racing or crossing the line first though. It relates to running a high 12 ET, therefore reaction time isn't relevant as your only racing the clock, not the guy in the other lane.
For the record, 12.9 is very possible with 185rwkw - I know, I've done it
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So I will run a 12s if I launch after 20s...thats funny Paul.
I had to reply to this......
That's funny, I had to reply to this...
R/T has NOTHING to do with your ET. ET is measure once you break the start beam, regardless of when the light goes green.
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Too easy - PM sent
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If anyone's interested, I have a set of used MT ET Drag Radials which I'm putting up for sale (tyres only) - 255/50/16.
I was going to put these in the For Sale thread, but thought I'd give anyone going to the drag day first dibs if they were interested.
They're probably 50% used, but still have enough meat left to at least last the drag day or a few street meets.
I managed a 1.689 60' on these last time out, so they're still in good nick
I'll be away over the weekend, so they'll be available next week. PM me if interested.
Cheers,
Brenden
Edit: $100 for the lot (from memory, paid $260/each brand new)
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Just spent the last 30mins or so going through the pics (and stories) in this thread - awesome stuff, thanks for sharing
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I also have a dash cluster from a R33 series II - perfect working condition.
Located in Sydney, but can post at your expense
PM me if interested
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Tyres included?
If so, what are the make, model and condition of the tyres?
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abo, just let me know on the info in PM and i will deposit the rest of the money
The deposit details are in the first post...
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Never thought I'd see the day - nice one Adam, count me in
Any particular liscencing required for this?Not unless you plan on running in the 11's (as far as I'm aware)
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got to be honest. it's pretty crap. it couldn't even hold my attention for the whole thing.
My sentiments exactly...at this rate, the program probably won't last long me thinks
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I've used them heaps of time also (not with the Skyline though) and never had a problem, so I'm a little dissapointed to hear of other peoples bad experiences...might think twice before using them again.
Hope you get things sorted Ned
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This stuff has been covered a few times, so do a search and you'll get some more info.
While we're at it though...
Mark at MRC in Castle Hill does my tuning. He's very knowledgeable and thorough with both tuning and mechanical work and just a downright nice bloke who takes the time to explain everything to you when he's working on your car. I highly recommend him...
Can't compare before and after as it was a new set up - but my car made 285rwkw @ 17psi with a nice flat AFR of 12 (as evidenced by anyone who was at the SAU dyno day last year).
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Anyway, I had a 369rwkw RB25 setup for 18months.
I also had the whiz bang Walbro (definately not a copy), it was wired correctly.
It was maxed out by 250rwkw/16psi.
Swapped for a Bosch, and AFR's went from 14's down into the 10s with just a fuel pump change and nothing else, running the factory rail presure.
So, there is experience behind my posts, i also know of others that have had similar issues.
Seems someone people do, some people dont.
Don't doubt what you're saying at all mate, although I am surprised that it maxed out at 250rwkw.
I've got a consistent AFR of 12, running 285rwkw @ 17psi - so I guess this just illustrates the fact that there's plenty of conflicting experiences/advice with this pump.
Interestingly enough, there's a small write up on fuel pumps in the latest issue of Zoom - from what I remember, Mr Donnon was even implying that these pumps are good for 350rwkw (take that one with a grain of salt), so buggered if I know...
Anyway, I'm digressing off the topic...
My 200rwkw definately cost more than $4k...
FMIC - $1500
Exhaust - $1000
Clutch - $1000
PFC - $1100
EBC - $500
Tuning - $500
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Agree with everything mentioned by Nismoid and Abo, except the comments regarding the suitability of the Walbro 255L/hr fuel pump for 250-300rwkw.
I've seen numerous examples (including my own car) where these fuel pumps have handled up to 300rwkw without problem. In saying that, it's important to mention that there's loads of rubbish imitation Walbro-like pumps out on the market which imply similar performance to a genuine Walbro but are simply not up to the task. As a consequence this may lead people to believe that Walbro's are no good, but I can vouch for the fact that mine has definately done the job.
Just my 2 cents worth
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I sort of agree with Mr Baron, this year will be a little different without Schumi and I'm also massively dissapointed that Webber didn't get a top line drive (or so it seems for the moment), although it's hard not to be intrigued by what may happen this year given all the changes that have taken place since the end of last season.
I have a few less obvious predictions for the season...
* Super Aguri will score a point this year and not finish last in the constructor's championship
* BMW or Toyota (but not both) will win a race this season
* Honda will not win a race all year
* Webber will out pace Coulthard all season, but DC will get the best single race result for RBR during the year (win or podium)
* A Toro Rosso driver will be sacked during the season
* The 07 constructor's title will not be won by the team of the 07 world champion driver
* Lewis Hamilton will be the first rookie to score points in 07
And finally, I predict that Nico Rosberg will not win the F1 World Championship
In all seriousness, I think Fisi will surprise this year and win the F1 World Championship...
Bring on Melbourne!
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Saw green stagea wagon STR86T on Church St North Parra at around 2:40pm
Also spotted STR86T (Goldzilla) yesterday arvo around 6.30pm on Fitzwilliam Rd - not sure if you saw me wave, I only saw you at the last second when you flashed your lights...
Spotted a very dirty MSP-25T with some random bloke driving it
Engine looks and sounds very nice Mona
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I'd be interested in a group deal if anything is organised (otherwise I'll just go it alone).
I've got 3 small dents which I've been meaning to get rid of for ages...hardly noticeable, but annoying all the same.
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Spotted a nice R33 SII coupe in dark grey pearl with FMIC, 17" P&W Tracer rims (dished on the rear) licence plate started with BD i think at around 5:35pm on james ruse drive. Gave me a nod as he passed me in traffic
That would be me
Nice 33 sedan you've got there mate - don't see them too often, but the more I see them, the more I like them
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What mods did you guys use to achieve 250+kw wilch & ECR033???
If you look one post above Wilch's mods in the link below, you'll see my mods.
Make sure you don't forget to factor in labour costs when budgeting your mods...labour is a huge component of the total cost.
Like Goldzilla said, if you service your car regularly, the tune is good and you don't drive like a tool, then there's no reason why the motor won't last for a long while yet provided that it's in good condition at the moment.
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Get the compression test done (and a leak down test if you want peace of mind), then decide if you need the rebuild. Both tests should give a good indication of the condition of your motor.
If you're currently getting high levels of knock, then it's probably the result of poor tuning, probably running too much boost and your stock injectors maxing out. Given that the car is fine on lower levels of boost, I'd say it's less likely that there's something wrong with your motor.
I'd recommend that you go back to your tuner and get them to adjust the tune before you do some damage and end up melting a piston - you'll then need a rebuild if that happens. It's not unusual to have to get a tuner to make small adjustments after an initial tune as they can't simulate all driving conditions on a dyno.
My car has 280rwkw+ on standard internals for quite a while now and hasn't missed a beat. I wouldn't recommend wasting money on a rebuild if you don't need to unless you're chasing well over 300rwkw.
...lol..
Hks Low Mount Cast Manifold
in Forced Induction Performance
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Not me personally, but yes the guy I purchased it off had a simple adaptor plate fabricated for it.