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Scooby_Steve

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Everything posted by Scooby_Steve

  1. Hi Guys, thanks for your input so far.... have a look at the following pics (the first two is from the hybrid cooler installation manual (step 1 and 2) and the other is a pic of my car).
  2. Hi, I've got a S2 GTST and i cant use the hybrid type cooler piping kits because i've got a washer bottle where i need to cut out the 3" hole. I want to get my left end tank (if looking front on with the car) on my cooler modified and have a 90 degree looking bend coming right off the end tank to go behind the cooler so that i can connect other piping. Similiar to that of a Blitz cooler but have the pipe go behind not under the cooler. Also, i dont want to buy another cooler so that's why i want it modded. So who would be the best person, tradesman to go and see?? i have no idea if an exhaust place is better than an aluminuim fabricator etc? Opinions? Thanks Steve
  3. hi, thanks for all your input guys.. i think i will stick to Castrol Synthetic R 10W-60.
  4. Hi, I've been using Castrol Synthetic 10W-60 in my '96 R33 GTST SII. Just wondering if you guys think this oil is good for the car.. I DONT want to know "this oil is better than that oil", just if you guys out there think that is oil is good for my car.. ie, is the 10W-60 rating good, if not what rating should i be looking at. thanks
  5. Hi, I've taken my car to an auto electrician and all sensor give back data but the pump relay and motor work intermittently. I've noticed that one of my relays has a rattle so i would say that the coil inside has broken and thus this relay needs replacing. i've find a site that sells this exact relay (in australia as well) which is good, but would it be as simple as an auto electrician de-soldering the old one and re-soldering the new one on? I've also asked nissan if they sold this relay only and they said NO. you have to buy the who ABS unit which is ..... wait .... $3750 ex GST from Japan.... so hope this helps.. will keep this post updated so that it can be a referenced later on (if it helps)
  6. thanks guys... any of you guys know where i may be able to get one (if it is needed after i take and get my abs checked out)???
  7. Hi, The scantool computer that was used to connect to the ECU displayed rear brake solenoid faulty on the LCD and we could not clear this code. So, i dont know if it means rear speed sensor or not.. thanks drft33, i appreciate your help.
  8. Hi, I've had an ABS problem with my car (the actual fault is that the rear brake solenoid is faulty) however i have asked several mechanics if they could fix and three (including a brake specialist) have said that i would have to take it to Nissan to fix... so the question is?? Do you guys think nissan would be able to resolve this problem as the r32 onward skylines are imports?? or do you think import mechanics can resolve this (hopefully someone who works on imports can help out here). I've already called my local nissan and they said they can not give a guarantee. So if anyone can help, it would be great. thanks Steve
  9. Hi, i mite have a friend who may be interestd as he did blow his motor however his turbo etc is in all good nick... i'll talk to him tomorrow... One last question.. would you know roughly how much it would cost to put this engine in??
  10. Hi, thanks guys... i'll let him know and maybe we can find a good second hand motor... Lastly, with the car not being able to start, the oil level hasnt dropped and there seems to be no oil patches on the floor either so hopefully this can shed some light.. but i will point him towards another motor anyway.
  11. Hi, I'll let my friend now as yeah he will be a bit short on cash as he did just buy his car... so this maybe a good option. Also how did you find these second motors? are they fairly reliable and are they generally in good working conditions?? just dont want the same thing to happen to him again. thanks
  12. Hi, Guys, thank you so much for your input.. I really do appreciate all your help. My mate managed to tow it to a mechanic and from the mechanics observation he said that there's no compression thus the reason why it wont start...He also said that the valves could be bent and lots more too but until he can pull the motor to bits, he cant give a good estimate... but he knows it will be expensive. Now, would it be better to rebuild or buy a half cut (better value for money and reliability)? any suggestions would be great. thanks heaps again.. Regards Steve
  13. Hi Ben, I will get him to degrease the area around the sump (that's where most of the oil seem to have resided). He also said that the oil was coming out of tube where the oil dipstick stays... I said impossible but he said it was... and lastly, I love to have the car started but it doesnt.. when trying to start the car, the engine sounds like if you were pushing one of those battery powered toy cars that kids can sit in...sound like no sparks
  14. Hi thanks yee-ha..i much appreciate your help... I think i mite just go with the standard r33 pump.. i've been quoted #$130 ex GST for it so i think that sounds good.
  15. Hi Guys, I only see my mate on the weekends cause I live about 100k's away from him however, from the visual inspection I did last weekend, there didnt seem to be any oil on the heads or between the block and the heads... The oil seems be a bit lower... However I will now check the intake pipe as well.. thanks heaps guys. And yeah it is horrendous...I just feel real sorry for him as he only had the car 1 1/2 weeks and he already had trouble from day 1... worst of all, he bought this car from a import car yard. Steve
  16. Hi Guys, I got a mate who just bought a S1 R33 GTST who has had nothing but trouble from day 1 and i literally mean day 1. On day one, the car overheated so the dealer replaced the radiator. He drove it back home (which was very very far away) so the warranty ran out. After one hard run, and I mean just one hard run, the car started stalling at times and misfiring. So we checked the ignitor coils and lead... and you would guess what?? after taking off the valley cover what we saw was the connectors on the leads were melted, and some where not even assemblies (leads were cable tied to the ignitor coil to hold it in place). Two days later, the car sprayed engine oil (definitely engine oil as oil levels dropped considerably after this) all over the drivers side of the engine bay as well as the area on the block below the turbo however the top on the engine was spared. The turbo is yet to be checked. The car started two more times and then no more... We check the spark plugs and that section was full of oil (in and around the ignitor coils). That has sinced been drained of oil but still no go. Engine oil has been changed and the levels have not dropped since but the car also has not started. Could it be the turbo seals? I also do noticed that the is an oil cooler tube on the drivers side also but that looks ok. So if someone could possibly hint some suggestions in what could be causing the oil leaks it would be great. Thank you
  17. Hi, I've heard that the VL pump doesnt have a screw hole where the standard nissan one does.... and this in the long run will allow leakage... thats why i want to get the standard 33 pump... and i dont take my car on track or anything plus live in the tropics so i want one that will cool the car when in low revs... thanks guys
  18. Hi, thank you... I'll give nissan a go.. Lastly, why do nissan need the VIN/Chasis number to get a pump?? Also anyone know the price of a water pump??
  19. Hi Guys, Contemplating doing my timing on my '96 S2 R33 GTST. I've sourced the idler and tensioner bearings however is in the process of getting the timing belt and water pump. The question is.... Where can I get the STANDARD, Not N1, water pump from (one that would suit the RB25DET not the VL RB30)? Would Nissan be my best bet? However, if the N1 water pump is my only option, then where can I get that from? Lastly, would I be better off getting the GATES branded timing belt or would the genuine Nissan would be better? Any help would be great. Thank you. Steve
  20. Hi, I will check that... I'm pretty sure it's a sensor thing because if I start the car with handbrake down/off and go move forward first no light but if i do the same but move backwards/reverse then the light will come on anyone (light will stay off until i start moving backwards). So anyone else knows where the rear solenoid sensor is for these cars then pls pls let me know.. cheers
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